Builds Where it all began... an FJ62 story (2 Viewers)

[jesus888]

Step 5: From the body hardness plug (under the dash) we started by temporarily removing the Red Power wire from the plug, and then adding (soldering) 2 x short lengths of power wire to it (one to connect to @LA Z ’s relay harness and the other for the Universal remote locking brain… we added connectors to those power wires so we could disconnect them easily if needed.

 

[jesus888]

Step 6: We pulled the B/R and B/W out of the under dash plug and soldered the Blue wires from the @LA Z relay harness to the B/R and B/W wires that we pulled from the plug and got that heat shrunk… it doesn’t matter which Blue wire from the harness goes to B/R or B/W.

 

[jesus888]

Step 7: After putting the R, B/W and B/R pins back into the plug, we addressed the “signal” wires… We combined one of the W from @LA Z harness, one of the 18/22 AWG wires that we ran from the door, and one of the Signal wires (lock/unlock) from the universal remote locking brain. And then we did the same with the other W wire from the relay harness, with the other 18-22 AWG wire, and the other Signal wire from the remote locking brain.

Note 1: You should use the instructions for your Universal Remote Locking for “Positive Trigger”. For the Universal, we just bundled the 3 x power wires and plugged into one of our Power wires that we added to the Body Harness plug. We had 1 ground wire that we ran to ground. The only other wires that needed to be used since all that we were using with the Remote Locking kit was the door lock/unlock piece, were the signal wires for Lock/Unlock (W and W/B)

Note 2: You will need to follow the Learn procedure for the remotes that are provided with the Remote Lock kit and loosely connect what we did in Step 7, and make sure that the lock on your remote corresponds to locking the actual doors… if it’s backwards, you need to just switch the signal wires.

 

[jesus888]

Step 8: Clean it all up, stuff it behind the kick panel (@SkeeLo22 made it look soooo pretty) and we used the LED that came with the Universal kit, not because I like it, but I did have a blank AND maybe someone will think it’s an alarm with sirens from the outside.

I’m sure I’ll go back and clean up these posts/add info, but that’s the long and the short of it.

Adding the Universal kit was SUPER easy once we got all of the other stuff there, but it definitely took some time/work to do it RIGHT… and in the end, the door locks jump outta the doors with ease/power and the remote makes that happen all the same! Very pleased with the outcome!

 

[jesus888]

One other note was that during this installation, we noticed a couple of times that we tripped the Door Lock breaker under the dash (because of our wrong turns here and there that I mentioned above)… so if you’re not getting power, just know there’s a small metal topped breaker under the dash for the door locks, that you just have to reset by pushing a paper clip into it, if you’re not getting power.

 

[jesus888]

Made a little more progress today…

• Ran the rear view camera into the tailgate grommet and mounted above the license plate… I’ll get a picture of that tomorrow. It wasn’t as bad as it was in the FZJ80…
• @SkeeLo22 played with his favorite tool (soldering iron) and got the power wire for the camera as well as the signal wire that runs to the front (with the video cable) to connect to the trigger wire for the head unit, all attached to the red/blue reverse light power wire.. and got everything loomed and tidied up
• He also found a great ground for that setup…

We’ll test that out tomorrow and keep working on the E46 harness to get those seats mounted this week!

 

[jesus888]

Yeah agreed, I’m that this somehow solves some issues. Or else I may be looking for a new master switch… I don’t believe this one is original to the car, and I really don’t want to trace wires into the harness etc etc

Just an update on this… all windows and door locks work great except driver rear window and the rear hatch door lock.

I’m sure they’re no big deal and now I can test everything but I’ll go back to that stuff once I’m done with some of this other stuff that’ll help put stuff back together… need the dash buttoned up and the E46 seats in first.

 

[jesus888]

So I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel of all of this MOFU electrical work…

• Alpine ILX-W650 mounted
• Rear camera hooked up (and working)
• Kicker amp is basically tuned
• Dash face is all put back tofether
• And the wizardry that @SkeeLo22 possesses is under my stock center console… all cleaned and loomed and heat shrunk for the E46 BMW powered seats with heat to go in tomorrow…

We still have small odds and ends to investigate/wrap up but man oh man, she’s coming together…

A quick trip to the store to get some 30 amp fuses and to fill the gas tank was all the reminder I needed that it’ll all be worth it shortly…

 

[jesus888]

Today was tying up the loose ends day but we ran into a couple problems that showed us down and I had to run to bama for the weekend to visit my mom…

• @torfab BMW FJ60 brackets are in a snug, not comin out again…
• @SkeeLo22 comin in hot with the underside cleanup of the seats because hopefully not gonna see the bottom of them for a while…
• He also had the bright idea of 2” heat shrink to take care of the seatbelt buckle receivers since replacing the broken plastic would involve removing a rivet and figuring all of that out… worked splendidly…
• And then it was about mounting the drivers seat and testing out all of the wizardry and all I can say is IT ALL WORKS.
• Also final-mounted the amp under the seats, so the passenger seat (with small spacers) can be mounted…

There’s still a couple brackets that need to be cut off the back of the seats on top of the tracks because the interfere with the seatbelt buckle receivers so gonna take the driver seat out again on Sunday and grind those off of both seats, but otherwise the seats function, both moving and heat great, and I love the upgrade from 34 year old foam… can’t wait to get em in for good and put some miles on her…

Also need to go grab some shorter hardware for the seats…

 

[jesus888]

Few more pics…

 

[jesus888]

Man oh man…

• BMW E46 motorized/heated seats are IN and all I can say is it was worth the trouble. Love the OEM look but these are just better.
• @SkeeLo22 hooked all of the plentiful amount of wiring necessary to make the motors and the heat work flawlessly… couldn’t be happier…
• Side note, took out the molded rubber mats and replaced with some trim-to-fit weather tech mats from Amazon… like the look better…

 

[jesus888]

Just enjoying the ride and trying to get through tax season so I can start with the 40!!

 

[Greg Seamon]

Just enjoying the ride and trying to get through tax season so I can start with the 40!!

View attachment 3261529

I just read your entire post today. I appreciate all you documentation and links. Sounds like you are good to go for the next 30 years.

 

[jesus888]

I just read your entire post today. I appreciate all you documentation and links. Sounds like you are good to go for the next 30 years.

There's ALWAYS something...

Prompts me to add into the mix that I have a power draw that keeps discharging the battery... and it ain't cool.

We're not sure if it's some of the fun/new stuff we did most recently or if it's been around for a while killing batteries when no one's looking... during all of our work, she lived on a tender so prob didn't notice any of it til we weened her off.

I'll post up after our deductive reasoning either yields some results OR I mount a jumper box to the inner fender well, and call it good. Either should be an interesting read.

 

[Greg Seamon]

There's ALWAYS something...

Prompts me to add into the mix that I have a power draw that keeps discharging the battery... and it ain't cool.

We're not sure if it's some of the fun/new stuff we did most recently or if it's been around for a while killing batteries when no one's looking... during all of our work, she lived on a tender so prob didn't notice any of it til we weened her off.

I'll post up after our deductive reasoning either yields some results OR I mount a jumper box to the inner fender well, and call it good. Either should be an interesting read.

Mine is not as nice as yours. Of course there are lots of upgrades I would like to do. Leaks all over. But it runs good. So have that going for me. lol
Sorry to hear about your battery issue thats a hard one to track down.

 

[jesus888]

Mine is not as nice as yours. Of course there are lots of upgrades I would like to do. Leaks all over. But it runs good. So have that going for me. lol
Sorry to hear about your battery issue thats a hard one to track down.

Appreciate the sentiment! I started with a nice rust-free example and after that... it's just money/time/motivation, right? Some combination of those three things and you got what you got! Battery issue is a pain in the a$$ but should just take a lot more time and motivation to figure it out...

 

[jesus888]

So while we were gonna be disgnosing the odds and ends (radio or amp s*** the bed, battery drain, speedometer doesn’t wanna work) we thought we’d throw this guy in to hopefully solve one of them, thanks @cruisermatt for sending it my way!

• Stereo symptom, basically lost 97% of power to the speakers and the sub just sounds like a heartbeat, not sure if the signal being sent by the head unit went bad or the amp itself went bad…
• Got a replacement head unit under warranty and swapped it out, same issue, so next is R&R the amp <sigh>
• Replaced the speedo cable while we had the dash apart, verified it’s engaging with the transfer case side because we drove a bit with the dash outta the way and see the cable spinning like it should! But then when we seat the cable end on the speedometer and go for a drive, nada, nothing, speedometer at a standstill <sigh>
• For the record, also stuck an Allen wrench into the speedometer to see if that was stripped and it is NOT… speedometer moves manually… so I’m honestly at a complete loss on this one.
• We were about to narrow the battery drain to the aux cable that we ran for all of the new stuff including the aux fuse box under the dash for the bmw seats (motor and heat) and @LA Z window/door lock harness and another 4 gauge wire going to the amp… so more time/motivation, we’ll get this narrowed down and FIX IT.

That’s all for today! For now, the big fuse for that six connection is removed so my battery doesn’t die when it sits….
That part is at least a W.

 

[SkeeLo22]

So while we were gonna be disgnosing the odds and ends (radio or amp s*** the bed, battery drain, speedometer doesn’t wanna work) we thought we’d throw this guy in to hopefully solve one of them, thanks @cruisermatt for sending it my way!

• Stereo symptom, basically lost 97% of power to the speakers and the sub just sounds like a heartbeat, not sure if the signal being sent by the head unit went bad or the amp itself went bad…
• Got a replacement head unit under warranty and swapped it out, same issue, so next is R&R the amp <sigh>
• Replaced the speedo cable while we had the dash apart, verified it’s engaging with the transfer case side because we drove a bit with the dash outta the way and see the cable spinning like it should! But then when we seat the cable end on the speedometer and go for a drive, nada, nothing, speedometer at a standstill <sigh>
• For the record, also stuck an Allen wrench into the speedometer to see if that was stripped and it is NOT… speedometer moves manually… so I’m honestly at a complete loss on this one.
• We were about to narrow the battery drain to the aux cable that we ran for all of the new stuff including the aux fuse box under the dash for the bmw seats (motor and heat) and @LA Z window/door lock harness and another 4 gauge wire going to the amp… so more time/motivation, we’ll get this narrowed down and FIX IT.

That’s all for today! For now, the big fuse for that six connection is removed so my battery doesn’t die when it sits….
That part is at least a W.

View attachment 3281122

The faulty amp is the source of the drain... I'm 99.9% sure. Once it is RMA'd, we'll circle back around.

 

[jesus888]

In our seemingly never-ending quest to make my 62 into a reliable daily driver… gotta address a few things…

• Pool of coolant that graces most every stop I make
• The battery drain that will leave me stranded 100% - after checking a few items that I think could be causing it, I’ve settled (I’m praying) on it being the alternator…

So I have a few things in order and few things that have arrived

• Ordered a DENSO FJ62 from @ToyotaMatt that should be here either by end of week or early next week
• Ordered a CSF radiator (stock one was leaking - we “fixed” with some JB weld but we’re gonna go ahead and make sure it’s not gonna be an issue - that has arrived
• Lower thermostat housing has a chunk missing, which may be a culprit - upper and lower thermostat housing ordered from BTB - should be here tomorrow
• Couple of heater hoses coming off of thermostat housing going to the hard lines on passenger side of block - parts are waiting for me at Toyota

 

[jesus888]

While we’re waiting on parts, today was the tear down day…

• Removed radiator, fan shroud, plastic fan, grill, and attempted to save the newish coolant in a clean bucket
• Found battery acid, probably from battery getting drained and then hot from charging and back again, so cleaned off the battery tray and all of the ancillary parts with baking soda and water…

I’m out of town til Tuesday, where this will all sit and the parts will hopefully be in by then to get it back together and at least some of these problems are no longer…