jesus888
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Builds Where it all began... an FJ62 story
- Thread starter jesus888
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jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #182
I also buttoned up the passenger kick panel and ran the two power wires from the passenger side doors to my fused distribution block and then stuck it up where it’ll eventually live once I get everything (driver side rear door, seat heaters, seat motors) hooked up… #babysteps
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #186
It’s the little things. Did I mention I hate wiring shiz??
- @SkeeLo22 soldered/heat shrunk some new pigtails for the Kicker 5.25” speakers since the PO had some junk in there…
- I ran 12v power from distribution block for the 2 x seats + 1 for the seat heaters… I’ll peel back the Velcro sticky strip and put the block where it’s gonna live once I get the last 12v wire I ran to passenger rear door attached…
- Picture of the mess under the passenger seat that is still left to be sorted…
- Tomorrow is power door locks harness and the remote door lock brain…
- Also greased the door mechanisms since the door panels are going back SOON
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dogcruiser
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I’m very interested to see more about the remote lock
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #188
We’re using @LA Z ’s harness for the door locks and he said that any $15-$20 universal remote door lock system is pretty easy “while you’re in there” to hook up.
Not opting for any of the fancy stuff (remote windows, light flashing, dome light turn on, etc… just a simple remote door lock/unlock and based on the actual instructions, seems like all that needs to be hooked up is a power/ground, open signal and close signal.
We’ll see tomorrow!
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #189
Love getting s*** done, hate roadblocks. But that’s part of the process…
Most of todays “activity time” was spent trying to figure out why we didn’t have power to the door locks when we were verifying with the multimeter prior to cutting into it to do the relay harness/universal power door locks…
Finally got tired of checking and rechecking EVERYTHING and searched here to find that there’s a breaker under the dash. It was tripped. We reset it. Now we have power.
We did get a chance to clarify some connections for implementing the @LA Z relay harness and the universal remote locking Amazon purchase, so I think we’re pretty ready for that tomorrow.
Most of todays “activity time” was spent trying to figure out why we didn’t have power to the door locks when we were verifying with the multimeter prior to cutting into it to do the relay harness/universal power door locks…
Finally got tired of checking and rechecking EVERYTHING and searched here to find that there’s a breaker under the dash. It was tripped. We reset it. Now we have power.
We did get a chance to clarify some connections for implementing the @LA Z relay harness and the universal remote locking Amazon purchase, so I think we’re pretty ready for that tomorrow.
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #191
While @SkeeLo22 was doing being anal retentive about soldering and wrapping and rewrapping every new union for the power door locks (god bless him, thanks to him, all of this is probably gonna work), I got the rear panels put back in with new pigtails and instead of drilling new holes into the OEM speaker bracket, we removed the bracket altogether, added some poly fill, and mounted the speakers to the actual panels. And it’s plenty sturdy.
Since the fronts are using the Kicker grills, I opted to do the same in the rear and not use the OEM grills.
Also ran the rear view camera through a grommet in the bottom of the rear panel to be hooked up later. I just wanted that panel fitted, so I went ahead and knocked that out.
Since the fronts are using the Kicker grills, I opted to do the same in the rear and not use the OEM grills.
Also ran the rear view camera through a grommet in the bottom of the rear panel to be hooked up later. I just wanted that panel fitted, so I went ahead and knocked that out.
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #192
Also thanks to @SkeeLo22 finishing up the updates to the door-side harness, I went ahead and got new vapor barrier, some close cell foam in the speaker area (since were surface mounting the speakers), and the door panel back on. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel…
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
Looks great! As much as I love the design of these trucks, I think the original speaker grilles in back are hideous. At first I thought they were a cheap aftermarket add-on until I realized they’re the OEM grilles.
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #195
We didn’t finish up the power door locks relay harness from @LA Z nor did we finish up the universal remote locking brain install. We’ll get a more detailed write-up of that when we’re done next week… just ran outta time today. Door-side is done… now just to do the body side. Picture of where the activities will recommence…
Was the resister replaced with another of a difference resistance value, or simply removed?
Simply removed. It could be clipped or broken off, but I chose to desolder & remove for cleanliness, save the resistor & to be able to reverse the mod later if wanted.
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #199
Power Door Locks relay install and Universal Remote Door Locks for FJ62
I am going to try and detail fixing the power door locks with @LA Z relay harness and adding a Universal Remote unlock system from Amazon for $16… that allows me to lock/unlock with a FOB
This is the one that I bought from Amazon (also pictured)
I am going to try and detail fixing the power door locks with @LA Z relay harness and adding a Universal Remote unlock system from Amazon for $16… that allows me to lock/unlock with a FOB
This is the one that I bought from Amazon (also pictured)
jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #200
We did a couple of things incorrectly at first, and later fixed the mistake, so I will detail generally what’s going on but I may not have pictures for some of it… Also this How-to is going to be written from the perspective of an idiot (me) and my much smarter buddy @SkeeLo22 will probably laugh at the explanation, but I’ll assume that most of us aren’t wiring gurus, so here we go. Also included is a VERY rudimentary pictorial drawing of the wiring…
Step 1: Run 2 x 18 - 22 AWG wires through the grommet connecting the driver front door to the body… this is a pain in the a$$ in general but it’s a necessary step to eliminate 2 separate connection points in our 33 year old wiring harnesses that seem to be a big reason your door locks don’t work as well as they should in the first place
Step 2: In the door, there are 2 x connections for your master window/door locks switch… you can disconnect the switch and put it aside for the time being
Step 3: The smaller plug contains 4 x wires (B/R, B/W, Red, White)… about 3” before the plug, CUT the B/R, B/W, and the White wires. The cut white wire will remain cut, so you can heat shrink both of the cut ends. I will refer to the Plug-end being the cut side that goes into the plug and the Body-end being the side that goes into the door grommet… The Body-end of the B/R and B/W will also not be used… so you can heat shrink both of those cut ends.
Step 4: From the Plug-end of both, the B/R and B/W, you will solder a diode (1n4001 or similar - we used 1n4002 because that’s what we had) facing the direction of the body AND attaching one of the 18-22 AWG wires that you ran in Step 1.
Step 1: Run 2 x 18 - 22 AWG wires through the grommet connecting the driver front door to the body… this is a pain in the a$$ in general but it’s a necessary step to eliminate 2 separate connection points in our 33 year old wiring harnesses that seem to be a big reason your door locks don’t work as well as they should in the first place
Step 2: In the door, there are 2 x connections for your master window/door locks switch… you can disconnect the switch and put it aside for the time being
Step 3: The smaller plug contains 4 x wires (B/R, B/W, Red, White)… about 3” before the plug, CUT the B/R, B/W, and the White wires. The cut white wire will remain cut, so you can heat shrink both of the cut ends. I will refer to the Plug-end being the cut side that goes into the plug and the Body-end being the side that goes into the door grommet… The Body-end of the B/R and B/W will also not be used… so you can heat shrink both of those cut ends.
Step 4: From the Plug-end of both, the B/R and B/W, you will solder a diode (1n4001 or similar - we used 1n4002 because that’s what we had) facing the direction of the body AND attaching one of the 18-22 AWG wires that you ran in Step 1.
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