Where do I start.

[Ismith96fj80]

In the process of replacing all of the a/c system and getting the rig back on the road. I've pulled the evap box replaced the expansion valve and evap and now putting it all back together. There is alot to do and even more to do that I didn't do myself the first time.

One thing I have noticed is that the factory security system is electrical taped under the steering column with wires going to a switch on the side panel, I'm pretty sure this is an aftermarket deal and probably not correct I want to make it right. I'll get pictures later. I'm just afraid that if I unhook something I can't drive it. Anyway the rig is down atm anyway so I want it right.


Sorry if I rambled just trying to make things right and undo everything the p.o did before me

 

[offroadvegan]

Holy.......

 

[rolliges]

WOW!


Didn't expect that image...what's the question??

 

[Rusty Marlin]

AH! A bomb went off in your truck!

 

[White80]

I’ve never had anxiety, until I saw that first photo...

 

[baldilocks]

Why did you remove the entire dash?

 

[Cruzerman]

Wow. That looks like a lot of work. You do know that you only have to remove the glove compartment to get to the evap unit and the expansion valve, right?

 

[musthave]

IDK, but while you’re in there, you might as well fix your vents so they aren’t flopping all over the place.

 

[Cass007]

From now on when I'm having a bad day I'm going to look at that dash photo and instantly feel better about things I'm dealing with.

 

[ShawninVA]

If the switch on the DS kick panel is a little toggle, it is probably "factory" - which is dealer-installed but there were only two standard versions: one for west port-of-entry and one for east. See the thread I pasted at the bottom to see what the east fob looks like. If it works, then leave it alone but start looking for a replacement fob. They are hard to come by now and it takes a while to find one.

Unfortunately, there's a lot more in these forums that covers the west security system. So, I kept mine because I am afraid of the can of worms I know it will be. There are much more fun things to work on like extending sunroof drains. /s

Keyless entry fob for east port of entry 80 series

 

[Ismith96fj80]

If the switch on the DS kick panel is a little toggle, it is probably "factory" - which is dealer-installed but there were only two standard versions: one for west port-of-entry and one for east. See the thread I pasted at the bottom to see what the east fob looks like. If it works, then leave it alone but start looking for a replacement fob. They are hard to come by now and it takes a while to find one.

Unfortunately, there's a lot more in these forums that covers the west security system. So, I kept mine because I am afraid of the can of worms I know it will be. There are much more fun things to work on like extending sunroof drains. /s

Keyless entry fob for east port of entry 80 series

im not sure what you mean by east and west

From now on when I'm having a bad day I'm going to look at that dash photo and instantly feel better about things I'm dealing with.

haha tell me about it,we went off some other info on how to properly replace the A/C evap and expansion valve and they guy that did most of the work did it with a flashlight and about 10-12 beers in, now he is an alcoholic but he still has no idea where anything goes and we are just shooting from the hip on many of the things. FSM is a must i feel and anyone that has posted pics of their endeavor has also helped. shes under the knife and down and out at the moment.

positive note i did get a set of 3rd row seats tan leather for it for the price of free today

 

[Ismith96fj80]

If the switch on the DS kick panel is a little toggle, it is probably "factory" - which is dealer-installed but there were only two standard versions: one for west port-of-entry and one for east. See the thread I pasted at the bottom to see what the east fob looks like. If it works, then leave it alone but start looking for a replacement fob. They are hard to come by now and it takes a while to find one.

Unfortunately, there's a lot more in these forums that covers the west security system. So, I kept mine because I am afraid of the can of worms I know it will be. There are much more fun things to work on like extending sunroof drains. /s

Keyless entry fob for east port of entry 80 series

i will definitely look more into this, to me it does not look like dealer installed i will try and get more detailed pictures once i get off work.

 

[Ismith96fj80]

w

Wow. That looks like a lot of work. You do know that you only have to remove the glove compartment to get to the evap unit and the expansion valve, right?

well now i do. thought that we were going to replace the heater core too but just ended up replacing the hoses and clamps instead as the heater core looked very good and bench tested/ pressure tested fine. this rig was a texas and georgia vehicle so it did not see too many harsh climates like here in colorado

 

[BILT4ME]

In my opinion, I would rip out whatever alarm is in it. Find ALL wires unrelated to factory and remove them.

The factory RS3000 unit was under the driver's seat. Start there and start removing wires and reconnecting factory plugs.

FYI The alarm systems were "port added" either on the West coast port or the East Coast port.... Mine was WC. It went wonky and started draining the battery, going off at random times. I did not have a FOB and NEVER set it.

 

[ShawninVA]

In my opinion, I would rip out whatever alarm is in it. Find ALL wires unrelated to factory and remove them.

The factory RS3000 unit was under the driver's seat. Start there and start removing wires and reconnecting factory plugs.

FYI The alarm systems were "port added" either on the West coast port or the East Coast port.... Mine was WC. It went wonky and started draining the battery, going off at random times. I did not have a FOB and NEVER set it.

Well, now you have my attention. Did you have to reconnect anything or is it just "rip it out" and it's OK?

I've left mine in place for fear of having to trace wires, etc for much more time than I bargained for.

 

[BILT4ME]

Well, now you have my attention. Did you have to reconnect anything or is it just "rip it out" and it's OK?

I've left mine in place for fear of having to trace wires, etc for much more time than I bargained for.

The port installed alarm is done with a plug and play harness for the most part.
Start at the box under the DS, trace the wires back, unplug at each junction and then replug the factory harness connections back together.

I found only ONE wire that was spliced into something else.

I took 6-1/2 hours to remove my harness but I took my time, I traced EVERY wire (not just pulling on it to "rip it out") and I ended up removing my lower steering column flashing and metal backing, my center console around the gearshift, and the glove box. It turned out the wire I chased across the interior was just an antenna wire for the key fob and it didn't attach to anything, but it was very neatly installed all the way across the dash and above the glove box.

While I was in there in that 6-1/2 hours, I ALSO did the following:
Replaced the steering column rag joint
Replaced the steering column firewall seal
Installed a CDL switch (repurposed hazard switch)
Did the Pin 7 Mod

I already had the parts in hand and was awaiting the right moment to do it.

In my case, my alarm locked me out when I went out to pick up dinner for the family. I came out and my parking lights were stuck on, the alarm had activated, there were no cars close to my truck, I had NOT set the alarm.

Fortunately, I opened the door with the key (as usual), I had a small set of tools in the truck. I opened the hood, disconnected the battery to clear codes and alarm system, put it back together and drove home (after the food got cold).

After dinner, I was still pissed, so I went out and tackled it all right then and there on a Thursday night.

This is my DD, so I wasn't about to get stranded somewhere again.

All in all, I cut ONE wire (a ground wire), but I disconnected everything else easily. I use zip ties to hold together connectors that appeared to be a little loose or the PO had broken the tabs on. I also recommend using some dielectric grease on the plugs that end up stuffed into the A-pillar kickplate. It sure opens up room in that A-pillar without all that extra junk.

 

[clx16]

You certainly don't need the dash apart to clean the ductwork but it might be a good idea while there. Also you could try to engineer a cabin filter system and then show us how to do the same.

If i had my dash that far apart i would run bundles of wire from one side to the next for future projects/accessories since you can tuck them up nice and neat. Replace radio fan... dash lightlbulbs..really just anything to keep from opening that back up again.

Also lots of people like to move the dryer up near the battery try so it isnt so low for after market bumpers.

 

[ShawninVA]

Mine is east coast so nothing under the seat but maybe I should look harder at the box under the steering column. I've been in the kick panel 5-6 times now and avoided dealing with the alarm.

 

[BILT4ME]

Mine is east coast so nothing under the seat but maybe I should look harder at the box under the steering column. I've been in the kick panel 5-6 times now and avoided dealing with the alarm.

You may have the pleasure of a "Best Buy Special" also. If so, it probably has a whole bunch of line splices and black tape on everything. If so, just try to remove it with surgical precision and use the actual black tape (3M is the best!) or use the liquid electrical tape to fill in the spots you cannot get to.

I still recommend removing the driver's seat for easy access to all of it anyway.

 

[ZackR]

Saw the first photo and threw up in my mouth a little. AC evaporator is easy to remove from under the glove box (1 hour or less). As others have said remove the alarm and while you are in there clean everything up and check all of the connections.