When does a good deal over ride rust?

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Joined
Apr 19, 2023
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Delaware
Hey all,

I have an opportunity to pick up a 2013 570 about $7k below market due to a good bit of rust and an inoperable tailgate.

What would you do (or have done) to figure out if the savings is worth the service that's needed?

Thanks.
 
Would need to see pics. I've seen frame rust which you could push your finger through the frame (on a 100 series). I've seen rust where it looks like someone left the truck sitting in the ocean. And I've seen surface rust that will grind off easily enough.

If it's bad then the questions are whether you intend to work on it or pay someone else to, whether they'll charge you our the wazoo for labor, and how long you intend to keep the truck, what the mileage is on the rig, whether you intend to mod it, etc. $7k is not amazing savings on a $40-50k truck but on a $20k truck maybe.
 
The phrase " good bit of rust" is extremely subjective. I can't offer an opinion without pics even then the opinion would pretty much be worth what it cost you. It is, however, a red flag that you are even asking and that you imply the cost reduction is due to rust. Especially if the tailgate issue is due to corrosion. A ten year old LX in the NE that has not had corrosion attended to regularly could (or could not) cost a few thousand extra $ to take care of related issues.
 
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There are hidden issues with rust, such as unable to remove the anti lock brake sensors, and other parts that the bolts may have rusted. Then you have heating and drilling and taping. Simple repairs can become a complicated job.

10 years old is when more maintenance is due and you could run into issues.

Look at where the rust is and what it affected, and consider how long you plan to keep it.
 
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In addition to the rust- the tail gate inoperability is due to it actually being hit with a bullet. The service shop was across the stream from a bar where a gunfight broke out and a bullet hit the tailgate.

...I can hear you laughing at me for considering this...
 
To me it looks like skid plates and exhaust system. Skids are about $1500 for a nice set, and exhaust I think around $1000 for after market. The rest you can touch up, wire brush and por-15.

No pic of the bullet hole, maybe it broke the cable?

Likely want a pic of the rotors by the anti lock sensor.
 
A good deal doesn’t override rust. It’s a “good deal” because of the rust. If you intend to keep long term, buy the cleanest one you can find.

I would take higher miles over rusty
 
To me it looks like skid plates and exhaust system. Skids are about $1500 for a nice set, and exhaust I think around $1000 for after market. The rest you can touch up, wire brush and por-15.

No pic of the bullet hole, maybe it broke the cable?

Likely want a pic of the rotors by the anti lock sensor.
That doesn’t look very rusty or very serious given the age. But it is just a couple of photos. What does the rear cross member look like? The factory skids are about $400 and are known to rust away. Easy fix. I like the bullet story.
 
I would pass on this given the rust pics. The LX AHC components are starting to rot and that is a PRICEY fix. When that starts going south, good luck getting a mechanic to work on it. AHC is hard enough to fix without it being rusty.

Save yourself the headache and buy a rust free rig. It will pay dividends in the long run.
 
Never. A rusty vehicle is never a good deal - even when it's free. Unless you're planning on parting it out or running it into the ground without maintenance.
 
I've seen worse

Those tie rods, LCA bolts, etc seem pretty rusty to me. If you need to do an alignment where anything is out of spec you may end up cutting out the LCA cams and replacing the LCAs, tie rods, etc. If you're keeping your truck stock you'll probably be OK for a while (until the bushings or joints start to go bad in which case you have to replace them anyway).

Still depends a bit on the total cost and how long you intend to keep the rig, IMO. If it has 150k and you drive 20-25k/year and will sell it in 5-6 years then do it. If it has half the mileage and you drive 5k/year and plan to keep it until it dies then avoid it as rust only gets worse and harder to deal with over time.
 
I've seen worse

Those tie rods, LCA bolts, etc seem pretty rusty to me. If you need to do an alignment where anything is out of spec you may end up cutting out the LCA cams and replacing the LCAs, tie rods, etc. If you're keeping your truck stock you'll probably be OK for a while (until the bushings or joints start to go bad in which case you have to replace them anyway).

Still depends a bit on the total cost and how long you intend to keep the rig, IMO. If it has 150k and you drive 20-25k/year and will sell it in 5-6 years then do it. If it has half the mileage and you drive 5k/year and plan to keep it until it dies then avoid it as rust only gets worse and harder to deal with over time.
That's great insight- thanks. It currently has about 125k- it'd be driven about 10k/year and we plan to hold it for >5 years.
 
Came here to mention the seized cam adjusters and LCA replacement. Our linux deity beat me to it.

I’m from the Midwest and maybe on the less squeamish side of the rust inspector spectrum, but that’s looking like a pass unless you’re looking for some long projects, or plan on never going underneath.
 
I do love these discussions. In Minnesota, Michigan, Ohio, and NY this would basically be a new vehicle (minus the skids). My wife’s parents live in northeast Ohio and it is amazing what I see when I am back there. Basically brand new trucks and SUVs with frames and suspensions coated in heavy flakey rust in only a few years. And yet the mechanics seem to know how to work on them.
 
The only reason I’d buy a rusty vehicle is if I lived in the salt/rust belt and wanted a beater to drive during the winter—and run it for as many winters as it took to crumble to dust.

I grew up in Texas, but we’d visit family in Chicago as a kid. I remember my aunt/uncle had their “nice cars” (Cadillac Deville and Datsun 280z) for spring—fall, and a rusty Ford Fairline station wagon and cheap Ford Maverick for the winter. They looked like crap, the mufflers were rotted out, but they sacrificed for the garage queens.

Living in the south, I’d 100% pass on rust—even for a beater. Perhaps I’m scarred from my childhood memories of the brutal north! 😁
 
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A winter beater is a good idea until it brakes down in the winter.;)
 
The only reason I’d buy a rusty vehicle is if I lived in the salt/rust belt and wanted a beater to drive during the winter—and run it for as many winters as it took to crumble to dust.

I grew up in Texas, but we’d visit family in Chicago as a kid. I remember my aunt/uncle had their “nice cars” (Cadillac Deville and Datsun 280z) for spring—fall, and a rusty Ford Fairline station wagon and cheap Ford Maverick for the winter. They looked like crap, the mufflers were rotted out, but they sacrificed for the garage queens.

Living in the south, I’d 100% pass on rust—even for a beater. Perhaps I’m scarred from my childhood memories of the brutal north! 😁
Rust is still a thing here in Chicago but I'm always surprised how many 15-20 year old vehicles are on the road. I do think material science has improved and even here in the salt belt things don't rust as badly or as quickly as they used to. Certainly paint and body panels seem to hold up a whole lot better than they did when I was a kid.

Rust still sucks though.
 
Heck, I'd consider buying it just for the bullet hole. That would generate a lot of interesting conversations. I'm not familiar with rust effects on an LX, but there is a lot and if you go further with this one, go with caution.
 
Heck, I'd consider buying it just for the bullet hole. That would generate a lot of interesting conversations. I'm not familiar with rust effects on an LX, but there is a lot and if you go further with this one, go with caution.
I offer to put a free bullet hole in anyones Land Cruiser. You pick the caliber and where you want the hole.
 
Heck, I'd consider buying it just for the bullet hole. That would generate a lot of interesting conversations. I'm not familiar with rust effects on an LX, but there is a lot and if you go further with this one, go with caution.
Given you are in Michigan, if you are close to Detroit— bullet holes may not be a novelty.😁
 

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