Whelp, finally blew the head gasket....what's on my todo list? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dranobob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #43
In the interim I realized I don't have am air compressor anymore and would like to use my impacts if needed. I used to have a 60 gallon one on a pallet, but I gave it to my FIL when I moved. I would love something a little more portable this time around since I don't plan to do any painting.
I have my eye on the Stealth 20gallon, but curious if anyone has recommendations on what they like?
I have my eye on the Stealth 20gallon, but curious if anyone has recommendations on what they like?
- Thread starter
- #44
I finally was able to get a few hours in. Of course broke the first harness clip I touched.
I’ll try to differing around the forums to see what fixes are available.
As a bonus I learned a 58” TV box leftovers work great for storing the hood.
Fluids, battery, intake, and radiator out.
I’ll try to differing around the forums to see what fixes are available.
As a bonus I learned a 58” TV box leftovers work great for storing the hood.
Fluids, battery, intake, and radiator out.
- Thread starter
- #45
Whelp started again today and made it to the fuel lines only to discover the truck has a full tank. I don’t have a realistic way to store 15+ gallons of gasoline.
Does anyone know if there is a way to keep the fuel from leaking out the lines at the engine so I can disconnect them?
Does anyone know if there is a way to keep the fuel from leaking out the lines at the engine so I can disconnect them?
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
For you harness connecters sumitomo connectors are what you are after. Ballenger motor sports has everything you need. On your connector there is a part number believe it’s 6 digits you enter that into their search bar and they sell pigtails or connectors you can repine. It’s extremely difficult to de-pin a connector I suggest the pigtail variant.
2 things...
Re: fuel lines, take the gas cap off (ask me how I know)
I know the FSM has the engine and transmission and TC coming out with only the radiator removed; pull the AC condenser and thank me later.
3rd thing (never said I could count), you MUST have a load leveler. Have lube handy to lube the threads - several times!
Have fun
I've lifted the engine in/ out of mine a few times with radiator and condenser in place, fan removed.
With the hood off, you should have enough room.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
it can be done with condenser in but now your lifting 1500lbs another 2 feet higher. Much easier to remove with this out of the way!
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I would just like to throw this in for anyone doing anything with the cooling system on their 80.
All mechanics know you always put the heater controls to HOT before refilling the cooling system, you often see this advice on many forums, including this one for DIY'ers. I have seen advice on here about jacking the rear of the 80 when refilling, parking it on the side of a kerb, placing a can of coke on the roof, pretty much every ridiculous kind of advice you can think of, and yet none of this is necessary.
The reason is the 80 system is a little different. Just because it is a very visible cable going to the heater valve on the bulkhead, it is NOT a direct connection to the slider at the heater controls.
So moving the heater control to HOT before filling will NOT open the valve, the ignition MUST be on, this allows the cable to move via an electric motor to the open position. Without power to the heater controls you can move the slider all you wish, it has no effect on the position of the cable, this I believe is why there are so many issues with overheating after work on the 80 cooling system.
A small caveat, some early 'base' 80's did have direct cable/slider action, but these were soon phased out as AC became standard.
Regards
Dave.
All mechanics know you always put the heater controls to HOT before refilling the cooling system, you often see this advice on many forums, including this one for DIY'ers. I have seen advice on here about jacking the rear of the 80 when refilling, parking it on the side of a kerb, placing a can of coke on the roof, pretty much every ridiculous kind of advice you can think of, and yet none of this is necessary.
The reason is the 80 system is a little different. Just because it is a very visible cable going to the heater valve on the bulkhead, it is NOT a direct connection to the slider at the heater controls.
So moving the heater control to HOT before filling will NOT open the valve, the ignition MUST be on, this allows the cable to move via an electric motor to the open position. Without power to the heater controls you can move the slider all you wish, it has no effect on the position of the cable, this I believe is why there are so many issues with overheating after work on the 80 cooling system.
A small caveat, some early 'base' 80's did have direct cable/slider action, but these were soon phased out as AC became standard.
Regards
Dave.
