Wheel bearing woes (Denver Area) (1 Viewer)

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Jul 29, 2020
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Location
Denver, CO
So the previous owner of my rig put some cheapo wheel bearings on it, and now my driver side is starting to really show its wear. Lots of clunks going over bumps when turning.

i've replaced all the suspension components with Genuine Toyota parts or OEM from CruiserTeq about 5k miles ago, everything looks and feels fine, but the wheel bearing is clearly worn or not set properly. I'd like to just get it squared away with OEM parts.

Does anyone recommend a shop in the Denver/Boulder area i could take my rig.

OR better yet, is there anyone local who would be willing to let me use their driveway and maybe some tools? I moved here 2.5 months ago and live in an apartment complex with nowhere to work on my rig

Thanks!
 
ATLR in Arvada has been good to me with some work they have done on my cruiser.

I've also had RSG do rear wheel bearings on my Tundra / old 4runner. True Automotive also seems to be a place that could work on it.
 
Pearl Street Automotive has taken great care of my 100 series.
 

I've seen @2001LC work, it looks amazing, was hoping i could get a 100 purchased off of him when i was looking! Would love to meet you if you have the time @2001LC !

ATLR in Arvada has been good to me with some work they have done on my cruiser.

I've also had RSG do rear wheel bearings on my Tundra / old 4runner. True Automotive also seems to be a place that could work on it.
Great recommendations, i'll give them all a call, thanks! Do you know if there are any DIY shops available? I'm very capable of doing the work, i just dont have any space or most of my tools, have a hard time trusting shops to do it to a proper spec.

Pearl Street Automotive has taken great care of my 100 series.
Great rec, ill call em! Thanks!
 
ATLR in Arvada has been good to me with some work they have done on my cruiser.

I've also had RSG do rear wheel bearings on my Tundra / old 4runner. True Automotive also seems to be a place that could work on it.

I've also used RSG for work before and was happy with the results - they are just a bit far from my house so I don't use them regularly.
 
Dang, so i called all 3 shops, spent good time with them on the phone, all 3 said they will text or email me quotes, and still nothing from none of them. Kinda leaves me wary since its a preview of how they handle customers who want to spend money with them.
 
Good cruiser mechanics are in demand. Unfortunately most don't have time to spend writing up quotes. Most will be > $100/hr. Be prepared for long lead times too. The only shop I'd consider sending my 100 to has a 3 week wait for appointments; and for good reason.

If I were you, I'd hit up harbor freight, buy a bunch of cheap hand tools, and DIY it in your apt parking lot.
 
Good cruiser mechanics are in demand. Unfortunately most don't have time to spend writing up quotes. Most will be > $100/hr. Be prepared for long lead times too. The only shop I'd consider sending my 100 to has a 3 week wait for appointments; and for good reason.

If I were you, I'd hit up harbor freight, buy a bunch of cheap hand tools, and DIY it in your apt parking lot.
Yea i think im gonna get some basic tools and at least try to tighten up the nuts again and ensure they are torqued correctly, then i'll have more time to go to a reputable shop or mechanic for a real replacement with genuine toyota parts.
 
Yea i think im gonna get some basic tools and at least try to tighten up the nuts again and ensure they are torqued correctly, then i'll have more time to go to a reputable shop or mechanic for a real replacement with genuine toyota parts.
You'll need 2 specialty tools, a set of snap ring pliers, and a 54mm socket. May want a CV puller tool too.
 
Thankfully i've got some of those already, i did bring some tools with me, ill opt for a brass hammer to knock out the cone washers, and get me a set of snap ring pliers from Harbor freight. Sadly im in a tight parking garage in the city, so ill need to find an inconspicuous parking lot to do this work in without getting yelled at haha
 
ATLR does a great job and has done a ton of work on my 100. That said, most recently I've taken my 100 to Matt Radder @ GarageWorks for a wheel bearing service, and he did an awesome job. Matt's a good friend of mine and an excellent mechanic. Tell him Ryland sent you! :)
 
Im in Denver too having same issues and need to find a cheaper route than the best one, i am in apartment but outside of city with good parking spaces. 706-830-2721 Coe
 
Also a good reminder to periodically check the bearings every once in a while, only drew my attention to it as I noticed feathering on the front tyres after rotating them, jacked up both sides and found a bunch of play on each sides. opened it up and you could turn the inner nut with your fingers...
If you don't have the special circlip pliers make sure there aren't any kids around or they'll learn some cool swear words from you
 
Im in Denver too having same issues and need to find a cheaper route than the best one, i am in apartment but outside of city with good parking spaces. 706-830-2721 Coe
Maybe we can make it a quick DIY day in your lot and knock ours out together possibly!

Also a good reminder to periodically check the bearings every once in a while, only drew my attention to it as I noticed feathering on the front tyres after rotating them, jacked up both sides and found a bunch of play on each sides. opened it up and you could turn the inner nut with your fingers...
If you don't have the special circlip pliers make sure there aren't any kids around or they'll learn some cool swear words from you
The inner nut should be about hand tight right (after the whole bedding in torque process). Im wondering if thats all i'll need to do.
 
Maybe we can make it a quick DIY day in your lot and knock ours out together possibly!


The inner nut should be about hand tight right (after the whole bedding in torque process). Im wondering if thats all i'll need to do.
No, inner nut should be tight enough to get the preload. Mine required quite a lot of torque to get preload properly done - using my 1/2" torque wrench. Outer is set and locks in the inner (and adds some pretension itself, so set the inner slightly lower.)

I would plan on getting the full wheel bearing kit from cruiser outfitters (claw washers, lock ring, washers, bearings and races, c clip kit, and flange gasket, nuts, etc. It sounds like your bearings are loose enough they are going to have some scoring. You'll want one 1lb tub of wheel bearing grease per side, nitrile gloves, and a lot of rags. You will also need tools to remove the old and reset the new races.

Pm me if you'd like. I'm in Loveland. I do work on 100s occasionally for friends/neighbors so long as they assist in the process. I don't do it completely for free, but I do donate the proceeds to a local non profit.
 
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No, inner nut should be tight enough to get the preload. Mine required quite a lot of torque to get preload properly done - using my 1/2" torque wrench. Outer is set and locks in the inner (and adds some pretension itself, so set the inner slightly lower.)

I would plan on getting the full wheel bearing kit from cruiser outfitters as it sounds like your bearings are loose enough they are going to have some scoring. You'll want one 1lb tub of wheel bearing grease per side, nitrile gloves, and a lot of rags. You will also need tools to remove the old and reset the new races.
ah yea having a vice would certainly help with this too, dangit
 

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