Wheel bearing replacement ?? Lock nut reusable?

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Yes, sorry, I get confused as well. It can be reused if in good shape. Some with worn bearings see scoring on the claw washer, that is when I would replace.

Awesome. Thanks for the tip. I'll go ahead and order one. No sense in not replacing it.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the tip. I'll go ahead and order one. No sense in not replacing it.
And just to reiterate what was said earlier, did you buy all the stuff for both sides? The parts don't come in pairs. If so you got a great price!
 
The cruiser outfitters kit is all OEM hardware. I run timken.

We (Cruiser Outfitters) are pretty proud of our kit featuring all OEM manufactures at half the price as a red box (not so much our current website :D). Kits also include full install instructions and torque specs and we stock any other component you might need for front axle service on a 100 including spindle bushings, hub studs, cone washers, hardware and drive flanges & caps. We stock the snap ring kis that are often needed too. Just give us a ring!

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PART# FAWB8907T


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PART# FAWB9807KIT
 
We (Cruiser Outfitters) are pretty proud of our kit featuring all OEM manufactures at half the price as a red box (not so much our current website :D). Kits also include full install instructions and torque specs and we stock any other component you might need for front axle service on a 100 including spindle bushings, hub studs, cone washers, hardware and drive flanges & caps. We stock the snap ring kis that are often needed too. Just give us a ring!

View attachment 1347369
PART# FAWB8907T


View attachment 1347370
PART# FAWB9807KIT


I gave your website a shot but it was not well organized. I may end up doing my passenger side as well, so y'all have some time to get that straightened out!
 
I gave your website a shot but it was not well organized. I may end up doing my passenger side as well, so y'all have some time to get that straightened out!
Its pretty simple: just order the part numbers listed above- or call.
 
We (Cruiser Outfitters) are pretty proud of our kit featuring all OEM manufactures at half the price as a red box (not so much our current website :D). Kits also include full install instructions and torque specs and we stock any other component you might need for front axle service on a 100 including spindle bushings, hub studs, cone washers, hardware and drive flanges & caps. We stock the snap ring kis that are often needed too. Just give us a ring!

View attachment 1347369
PART# FAWB8907T


View attachment 1347370
PART# FAWB9807KIT

Edit: I have the instructions and diagrams and the FSM with all necessary torque specs already. However, it's good to know that y'all provide that. Is that the same for all parts that you provide?
 
Edit: I have the instructions and diagrams and the FSM with all necessary torque specs already. However, it's good to know that y'all provide that. Is that the same for all parts that you provide?

Not all, we are working to add instructions to all kits. Wheel bearings kits, knuckle overhaul kits and soon all of our tie rod end kits will have full instructions, others are being worked on as time allows.
 
Fwiw: We just happened to be assembling more of the kits today, this is a better look at the kit contents including a peak at the instructions and diagram. All of the small parts are NOK & Joint Fuji (OEM Toyota) and the bearings are OE Timkens (again same as used by Toyota)

FAWB9807.webp
 
Thanks! I may be doing the passenger side. I paid about $125 through an OEM dealer online. Your price seems to be more competitive. However, the field service manual does say that the cone washers for the flange are not reusable. My order included 6 of them. It may be worth looking into including that in your kit.

If I do the passenger side I'll definitely call to order from y'all. I would love to support a vendor, just wasn't pleased by the online store layout. I like simple and direct.
 
Thanks! I may be doing the passenger side. I paid about $125 through an OEM dealer online. Your price seems to be more competitive. However, the field service manual does say that the cone washers for the flange are not reusable. My order included 6 of them. It may be worth looking into including that in your kit.

If I do the passenger side I'll definitely call to order from y'all. I would love to support a vendor, just wasn't pleased by the online store layout. I like simple and direct.
Most everyone on the forum reuses their cone washers unless damaged, it's nowhere necessary. They don't include them in their kits, I assume, because they too agree. Your choice though.
 
Thanks! I may be doing the passenger side. I paid about $125 through an OEM dealer online. Your price seems to be more competitive. However, the field service manual does say that the cone washers for the flange are not reusable. My order included 6 of them. It may be worth looking into including that in your kit.

If I do the passenger side I'll definitely call to order from y'all. I would love to support a vendor, just wasn't pleased by the online store layout. I like simple and direct.

We stock all the cone washers too.

Online stores are simple and direct, but they don't give us the opportunity to chat with the customer about their exact needs and thus we have a super low return rate. It's something we are struggling with as we build out new site.

As for needing the cone washers, we polled 100 series owners here in Mud and combined that with the hundreds of axles we've rebuilt here in the shop, the cones just are not needed. Toyota may recommend replacement as they know odds are decent one will launch across the shop :D
 
odds are decent one will launch across the shop :D

Funny that now I have a 100 and am going to do this exact thing soon,

I remember my first experience with said cone washers on an 85 Toyota truck. I taped the perimeter and that dang thing shot out and nailed me then fell in the gravel. Took me about 10-min to find it. So I learned to keep an eye on them just in case. Hahaha
 
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Go with Cruiser Outfitters. They know what you need and will offer advise when others won't. Don't try to save $5.00 when rebuilding. Big mistake. With such an ugly face how can you go wrong!!! Good people.
 
Thanks! I may be doing the passenger side. I paid about $125 through an OEM dealer online. Your price seems to be more competitive. However, the field service manual does say that the cone washers for the flange are not reusable. My order included 6 of them. It may be worth looking into including that in your kit.

If I do the passenger side I'll definitely call to order from y'all. I would love to support a vendor, just wasn't pleased by the online store layout. I like simple and direct.
Actually it's the cone washer NUT (6 hub flanges nuts) that FSM states not reusable. I reuse if serviceable, but I do put a drop of blue lock-tight on threads.

Notice the FSM shows bearings not reusable. I miss reads this until a member pointed out "that's if race is removed" duh. It also show snap ring & grease cap not reusable. Again I do if serviceable and snap ring of thickness I need.
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That said my Toyota Dealer parts counter guy of 20 years, tells me they see shop use tons of hub cone washer nuts
 
Got everything buttoned up per FSM's torque specs. I've put about 200 miles on it since then and i feel like something is loose again.

There was a pull to the left. It went away shortly after fixing it, but it's pulling to the left again.
Should I replace the axle nuts? I should have time this week to take it apart and re-torque everything. A buddy of mine, before I felt it pulling left again, said that I should re-torque again after 500 miles anyway.
I should also mention the audible wheel bearing noise is present again as well.
Anyone have any input?
 
Did you do both sides?
 
Got everything buttoned up per FSM's torque specs. I've put about 200 miles on it since then and i feel like something is loose again.

There was a pull to the left. It went away shortly after fixing it, but it's pulling to the left again.
Should I replace the axle nuts? I should have time this week to take it apart and re-torque everything. A buddy of mine, before I felt it pulling left again, said that I should re-torque again after 500 miles anyway.
I should also mention the audible wheel bearing noise is present again as well.
Anyone have any input?
You say it's pulling left but I've no idea what wheel bearing you just did. Should I assume left.

You now say a audible wheel bearing sound again. You never told us this before. What does this sound like, oscillating, steady, varying with speed, grinding?

You may have junk bearing kit. That is why Kurt @cruiseroutfit was recommended to you. He's a tursted vendor here in mud, with only the best products.

You've not stated your year. I looked at one picture you posted from FSM which looks like 2004. Is that what you have?

You've not stated if your rig has any mods, what tires etc.

A lot of this can be covered by a signature listing your rigs particulars. See signature of those trying to help you, it tell what and how set up.

Hub flange nuts will not have anything to do with pull, unless you left off.
Wheel bearing would have to be extremely loose to cause pull this soon after servicing.

Most people don't properly set breakaway preload, leaving wheel bearing loose. What did you set breakaway preload at?

Did you grease axle needle bearing and bushing?

Any chance brake pads are rubbing?

What is condition of front drive shafts?

What is condition of Steering Rack and mounting bushings?

What is condition of TRE's?

What is condition of ball joints?

What is condition of UCA & LCA bushing?

Low tire pressure, variation in tread pattern, alignment will and is most common reasons for pulling.

In 2003 the series 100 Rack and pinion steering was changed to Variable Gear. This takes special adjustment to set up steering. This will certainly cause pulling, if not set up properly. Sorry you'll need to look-up yourself I'm just to tired at the moment.
 
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You say it's pulling left but I've no idea what wheel bearing you just did. Should I assume left.

You now say a audible wheel bearing sound again. You never told us this before. What does this sound like, oscillating, steady, varying with speed, grinding?

You may have junk bearing kit. That is why Kurt @cruiseroutfit was recommended to you. He's a tursted vendor here in mud, with only the best products.

You've not stated your year. I looked at one picture you posted from FSM which looks like 2004. Is that what you have?

You've not stated if your rig has any mods, what tires etc.

A lot of this can be covered by a signature listing your rigs particulars. See signature of those trying to help you, it tell what and how set up.

Hub flange nuts will not have anything to do with pull, unless you left off.
Wheel bearing would have to be extremely loose to cause pull this soon after servicing.

Most people don't properly set breakaway preload, leaving wheel bearing loose. What did you set breakaway preload at?

Did you grease axle needle bearing and bushing?

Any chance brake pads are rubbing?

What is condition of front drive shafts?

What is condition of Steering Rack and mounting bushings?

What is condition of TRE's?

What is condition of ball joints?

What is condition of UCA & LCA bushing?

Low tire pressure, variation in tread pattern, alignment will and is most common reasons for pulling.

In 2003 the series 100 Rack and pinion steering was changed to Variable Gear. This takes special adjustment to set up steering. This will certainly cause pulling, if not set up properly. Sorry you'll need to look-up yourself I'm just to tired at the moment.

It's an 05. I replaced it with quality OEM Toyota parts. I don't believe I got junk parts. They are from a Toyota dealership in Toyota boxes with timken on the bearings. The best way to describe the sound is like additional wind noise.
There are no mods. The tires are Pirelli highway tires.
I thought I said this before, but it was pulling to the left. I was going to wait to replace bearings before checking alignment.
After completion it drove great. Now about 200 miles later it is pulling again.

The drive shafts and axle shafts are fine.
What is the axle needle bearing and bushing?

I greased both bearings inside the hub and packed them well. Replaced races.

Pre load was set at 9.5lbs. The minimum recommended by the FSM. Brakes do not seem to be the problem. Temps are the same after driving and there's no weird brake pedal feeling.

The Toyota dealership I bought it from did not mention anything after inspection about ball joints or tie rods or any of the other things you mentioned.

I'll check the tire pressure, but I don't think that's the issue.
 

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