- Thread starter
- #41
No. driver side only. It was pulling left before. Corrected temporarily. Then pulling again now.
Wheel bearing replacement ?? Lock nut reusable?
- Thread starter fblainen11
- Start date
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2001LC
SILVER Star
"Now about 200 miles later it is pulling again." Worth Repeat: In 2003 the series 100 Rack and pinion steering was changed to Variable Gear. This takes special adjustment to set up steering. This will certainly cause pulling, if not set up properly.
"sound is like additional wind noise." Most common is from improperly installed windshield.
What was snap ring gap when done?
Slee - Spindle Grease Tool
Axle needle bearing & bushing:
- Thread starter
- #44
I'll check tomorrow. I honestly didn't think it was that big of a deal so I didn't buy a feeler gauge.
What issues does that cause?
I can tell you I was barely able to get the snap ring in place so it should not be that big of a gap.
Also, no i did not mess with the axle needle bearing or bushing.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Worth repeating: "Number one cause of pulling is difference in tires". Tire pressure at top of list. It's important to check tires when cold. If say left tire is sitting in sun light and right is in shade when checked and topped off. Then pressure in left tire will be lower at operating temp (on HWY). Just 1/2 pound of difference will cause pulling. As a test; check tire pressure after they're warmed up and pulling is observed. If you have an inferred temp gun, it would be interesting to check temperature of tires also.
We've covered most other common causes of pulling i.e. Alignment and special needs of 03 up when aligning. Most corner shop are not aware of this special need. You've not said anything about speed at when pulling left starts. There is a TSB on ZERO POINT CALIBRATION http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/BR001-04.pdf
Steering wheel pulls at 40+ mph
I did not see if you have LC or LX with AHC, but either needs the stink bug stance (lower in front) and to be level for left to right. Nor have you mention your body weight. Large people need to make alaiment shop aware of their weight.
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I'm assuming you just service one wheel bearing because of pulling.
I'll also assume you used a #2 wheel bearing grease, and did not over pack (2/3 full at most) cavity of wheel hub.
So I see no reason this would cause pulling to side serviced.
Note: Both side are general serviced every 30K miles at same time.
When you pulled left bearing did you observe any damage i.e. bearings, races, claw washer, hub flange, cone washers, snap ring or axle teeth. Damage that was enough to cause pulling. Where if wheel bearing components on one side was in really bad condition it may cause pulling. Once serviced properly there would be no reason for this side to drag (pull). To continuing pulling left makes me think wheel bearing was not the issue.
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You need to understand gap should always be checked.
Wide/improper gap is not causes pulling. But it does lead to damage that eventually (thousands of miles) may. Here's some damage caused be improper wheel bearing breakaway preload (to loose) and excessive gap, which cause saw & pounding action.
Just a bit more on snap ring gap:
You'll notice the puller used in above picture, to pull out axle. Before pulling the gap was so tight snap ring would not fit. Also notice the gap is .23mm, which is over the limit of .20mm. The next size up in snap ring was used bring the gap down to .03mm.
In above example the axle needle bearing & bushing were greased. This puts extra grease in bushing area where axle and steering knuckle butt up. Which makes pulling, extra hard, necessary to squish grease out to get good gap reading.
Most common way of pulling axle is to just thread a bolt in axle to pull on. Of course all 6 cone washer and hub flange nuts should be torqued before checking snap ring gap.
We've covered most other common causes of pulling i.e. Alignment and special needs of 03 up when aligning. Most corner shop are not aware of this special need. You've not said anything about speed at when pulling left starts. There is a TSB on ZERO POINT CALIBRATION http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/BR001-04.pdf
Steering wheel pulls at 40+ mph
I did not see if you have LC or LX with AHC, but either needs the stink bug stance (lower in front) and to be level for left to right. Nor have you mention your body weight. Large people need to make alaiment shop aware of their weight.
______
I'm assuming you just service one wheel bearing because of pulling.
I'll also assume you used a #2 wheel bearing grease, and did not over pack (2/3 full at most) cavity of wheel hub.
So I see no reason this would cause pulling to side serviced.
Note: Both side are general serviced every 30K miles at same time.
When you pulled left bearing did you observe any damage i.e. bearings, races, claw washer, hub flange, cone washers, snap ring or axle teeth. Damage that was enough to cause pulling. Where if wheel bearing components on one side was in really bad condition it may cause pulling. Once serviced properly there would be no reason for this side to drag (pull). To continuing pulling left makes me think wheel bearing was not the issue.
_______
You need to understand gap should always be checked.
Wide/improper gap is not causes pulling. But it does lead to damage that eventually (thousands of miles) may. Here's some damage caused be improper wheel bearing breakaway preload (to loose) and excessive gap, which cause saw & pounding action.
Just a bit more on snap ring gap:
You'll notice the puller used in above picture, to pull out axle. Before pulling the gap was so tight snap ring would not fit. Also notice the gap is .23mm, which is over the limit of .20mm. The next size up in snap ring was used bring the gap down to .03mm.
In above example the axle needle bearing & bushing were greased. This puts extra grease in bushing area where axle and steering knuckle butt up. Which makes pulling, extra hard, necessary to squish grease out to get good gap reading.
Most common way of pulling axle is to just thread a bolt in axle to pull on. Of course all 6 cone washer and hub flange nuts should be torqued before checking snap ring gap.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Took it apart today. Everything was done correctly and still in order. Nothing came loose.
I did a little troubleshooting and here's my hypothesis. I jacked up both driver and passenger side and pulled back and forth on the tire (push inboard then pull outboard). Before I did the job, both wheels had a small amount of play. Now that I've done the driver side, it has 0 slop/play, but of course the passenger side does.
I'm thinking that it is possible that both sides need to be redone. Or I at least need to repack passenger side and re-torque everything.
this doesn't necessarily explain the pull, but it's a start. I have a buddy that has alignment equipment. I'll contact him to see if he can take a quick looksy for me.
Need to add this! I check the spacing between flange and snap ring. All is good there.
I did a little troubleshooting and here's my hypothesis. I jacked up both driver and passenger side and pulled back and forth on the tire (push inboard then pull outboard). Before I did the job, both wheels had a small amount of play. Now that I've done the driver side, it has 0 slop/play, but of course the passenger side does.
I'm thinking that it is possible that both sides need to be redone. Or I at least need to repack passenger side and re-torque everything.
this doesn't necessarily explain the pull, but it's a start. I have a buddy that has alignment equipment. I'll contact him to see if he can take a quick looksy for me.
Need to add this! I check the spacing between flange and snap ring. All is good there.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Sound like a good plan to get other side done as well. I've re-torque adjusting nut once before, and it had loosened. Just keep in mind it's the breakaway preload not the torque you care about, and that is to be set with rotor off.
Remember grease the axle needle bearing & bushing. Wear on bushing causes gap to increase giving more slop in & out.
So if all the usual stuff has checked out ggod, the I'm leaning toward the ZERO POINT CALIBRATION http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/BR001-04.pdf
Remember grease the axle needle bearing & bushing. Wear on bushing causes gap to increase giving more slop in & out.
So if all the usual stuff has checked out ggod, the I'm leaning toward the ZERO POINT CALIBRATION http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/BR001-04.pdf
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