Wheel bearing question (1 Viewer)

[DownByTheRiver]

I've been hearing a howling noise at 40mph, and figured I'd check my wheel bearings because I never went back and tightened them when I did the entire front end 5000 miles ago, and I've done water crossings since then.

When I shake my tire 12 and 6, I get very slight play and a small bit of knocking. I can't replicate this with the wheel/tire off. Preload on the driver bearing was 12 pounds on a fish scale. The outer lock nut was tight. Am I missing something? What can cause this play besides the bearings?

The entire front end with the exception of the knuckles is new, and I mean everything.

 

[uHu]

When I hear you say howling noise, I think of the spindle bearings. If they are neglected, the roller bearings will wear out and the driveshaft will rub on the brass washer, which creates a howling sound at speed, and a more rumbling/rasping grate at lower speeds. The spindle bearings are susceptible to be washed out during water crossings.

For the wheel bearings, make sure you use good locking and claw washers. Particularly the left one will easily become looser if you're not.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

The howling only happens when I'm on the gas above 40. Steady, rhythmic vibration. I was going to pull the front drive shaft if bearings weren't the cause. The spindle bearings are both new and I used nlgi1 grease in them. I'll check them but was really wondering what the play is from, but only with the tire on.

 

[2001LC]

First, it's best if you use the signature line in ih8mud, to list detail of your truck: i.e. stock, years, miles, build, etc.

You should not have any play in wheel/tire at the 6 & 12. Any play is most often loose wheel bearings. But can be confused with ball joints.

You said "very slight play and a small bit of knocking". We do not hear knocking with slight play, from loose wheel bearings. But we may with loose ball joints. You say everything in front end "new". So, I assume ball joints too. If you've aftermarket greaseable UBJ, like SPC uppers. They will have play and knock sound. Which may be mistaken for loose wheel bearings. One test is while doing the 6 & 12. Place a finger snugly between wheel and caliper. If wheel bearings loose, you'll feel a slight pinch in finger, as hub wobble on spindle. If ball joint, you'll not feel the pinch.

Spiders:
Spiders (aka U-joint) not lubed or going bad will make sounds. I call it oscillating droning sounds Which howling noise, may been your way of stating.
One test is to get on long downhill stretch of HWY. At HWY speeds shift into N and coast. Do you hear, wa wa wa oscillation sound. If so, inspect and lubricate spiders and slide yokes of forward and aft propeller shafts (AKA drive shafts)

Engine:
You may have engine sounds also. PCV valves can make sounds. Vacuum leaks also. One very often missed, is the seal on the engine oil cap.

Tires:
When I've a front-end sound, I can't nail down. I've a set of stock tires (Michelins) and wheels, I toss on. I just did this on one of my 07LX, I was concerned I had a bad FDS CV. Sure, enough sound went away.

Circling back to wheel bearing assemble:
It's very important to properly gap hub flange snap ring. If gap to large, this may allow water entry into back seals of knuckle/FDS. Also grease caps should not be reused. They too may allow water entry. These are more important points, if doing water crossings.

Additionally, it's very important wheel hub cavity was packed with grease.
Note: We do want a small air gap between spindle and grease packed in wheel hub cavity.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

First, it's best if you use the signature line in ih8mud, to list detail of your truck: i.e. stock, years, miles, build, etc.

You should not have any play in wheel/tire at the 6 & 12. Any play is most often loose wheel bearings. But can be confused with ball joints.

You said "very slight play and a small bit of knocking". We do not hear knocking with slight play, from loose wheel bearings. But we may with loose ball joints. You say everything in front end "new". So, I assume ball joints too. If you've aftermarket greaseable UBJ, like SPC uppers. They will have play and knock sound. Which may be mistaken for loose wheel bearings. One test is while doing the 6 & 12. Place a finger snugly between wheel and caliper. If wheel bearings loose, you'll feel a slight pinch in finger, as hub wobble on spindle. If ball joint, you'll not feel the pinch.

Spinders:
Spinders (aka U-joint) not lubed or going bad will make sounds. I call it oscillating droning sounds Which howling noise, may been your way of stating.
One test is to get on long downhill stretch of HWY. At HWY speeds shift into N and coast. Do you hear, wa wa wa oscillation sound. If so, inspect and lubricate spiders and slide yokes of forward and aft propeller shafts (AKA drive shafts)

Engine:
You may have engine sounds also. PCV valves can make sounds. Vacuum leaks also. One very often missed, is the seal on the engine oil cap.

Tires:
When I've a front-end sound, I can't nail down. I've a set of stock tires (Michelins) and wheels, I toss on. I just did this on one of my 07LX, I was concerned I had a bad FDS CV. Sure, enough sound went away.

Circling back to wheel bearing assemble:
It's very important to properly gap hub flange snap ring. If gap to large, this may allow water entry into back seals of knuckle/FDS. Also grease caps should not be reused. They too may allow water entry. These are more important points, if doing water crossings.

Additionally, it's very important wheel hub cavity was packed with grease.
Note: We do want a small air gap between spindle and grease packed in wheel hub cavity.

Thanks for the tips. It's a 98. Oscillating drone is a great way to describe it. It only happens under a load, never coasting. It sounds like it's coming from the driver's side front, but I ordered new front and rear u joints because they're due, and somebody changed the rears and didn't put the zerks where I can get to them. I'd say the noise happens 80% if the time, and it does it whether going straight or turning. It comes in at 40mph or when there's a decent load on the engine it seems.

Everything in the front end is new, with the exception of the knuckle itself. Its all oem toyota except for the upper control arms, which are freedom offroad. I'll try the finger between the caliper and wheel trick, because the bearings feel good otherwise. I'm assuming if they're set to the right preload, they can be ruled out, correct? I had an assortment of snap rings when I did the job originally and the splines on both the flange and cv look good. They're both brand new oem as well.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the tips. It's a 98. Oscillating drone is a great way to describe it. It only happens under a load, never coasting. It sounds like it's coming from the driver's side front, but I ordered new front and rear u joints because they're due, and somebody changed the rears and didn't put the zerks where I can get to them. I'd say the noise happens 80% if the time, and it does it whether going straight or turning. It comes in at 40mph or when there's a decent load on the engine it seems.

Everything in the front end is new, with the exception of the knuckle itself. Its all oem toyota except for the upper control arms, which are freedom offroad. I'll try the finger between the caliper and wheel trick, because the bearings feel good otherwise. I'm assuming if they're set to the right preload, they can be ruled out, correct? I had an assortment of snap rings when I did the job originally and the splines on both the flange and cv look good. They're both brand new oem as well.

I'm assuming if they're set to the right preload, they can be ruled out, correct? If the bearings & races are good, YES!

 

[DownByTheRiver]

I'm assuming if they're set to the right preload, they can be ruled out, correct? If the bearings & races are good, YES!

Okay great. I've seen some threads that fixed this exact problem with new u joints in the rear driveshaft, which checks out in my scenario. Here's hoping that's what's going on.

 

[DownByTheRiver]

It was rear u joint(s). They were aftermarket...had the grease fittings where you couldn't get to them and one was really notchy. I'll do the fronts at some point, because they look original oem.