Wheel bearing/knucle rebuild question... (1 Viewer)

[ucmikej]

Hi everyone, I bough an FZJ80 (1993) a few months ago and have slowly been making repairs.

The wheel bearing need to be replaced and the P.O. left me a box of parts that are brand-less. The wheel bearings are neither Timken or Koyo. Some parts have the part # and "China" on them.

The box of parts seem to contain parts for a knuckle rebuild kit. I wanted to know if anyone had any issues with "made in china" and no name brand parts for this type of work.

Would you suggest just buying a kit from a reputable vendor? These kits are well over $100 & I was wondering if it is worth spending this much when I already have the parts (no brand). I'm a student and dont have alot of income but also want this LC to be safe and reliable with decent parts. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

Box:

JLM 104910 (Inner race)
JLM 104948 (inner bearing)

LM 102910 (outer race)
LM 102949 (outer bearing)

30304 (trunnions)
(Do I need the ones that specifically say AJR 2-N hi-cap?)

I also need some help figuring out the names and purpose of some parts.

 

[ucmikej]

More pictures.

 

[sunrk]

The question marked items are upper kingpin shims that are used to adjust the pre-load of the kinpin bearings by slightly raising or lowering the top kingpin that secures with two bolts to the top of each swivel hub casting. I personally would not use non-reputable bearings so only real Koyo or Timken or NTN.

The upper kingpin shims come in 4 different thicknesses. When you remove each upper kingpin make sure you keep the shim stack with it for each side and store or mark each upper kingpin so you don't mix them around.

Brass bit is the front spindle bush but if your existing spindles are the later type they will have needle roller bearings and a smaller brass bush.

Big metal ring with a seal lip in the middle is bolted in front of the spindle (which itself bolts in front of the brake backing plate) and forms a seal for the back of each wheel hub assembly once it's fitted onto the spindle.

The two large thin nuts, large thick washer and 'star' plate are the factory method of securing the front wheel hubs to the spindle and setting the wheel bearing preload. Big washer first, then a nut, then the 'star' plate (usually called a locktab), then the second nut. There is a procedure in the service manual for setting this up. Once the preload is set and each nut torqued up to the spec the locktab tabs are bent down/up.

 

[ucmikej]

Thanks @sunrk for the tip and info. Ill look at reputable wheel bearings. What would you suggest I do with the other parts?

 

[ZackR]

Reach out to @cruiseroutfit and get a kit. When I did mine in 2018 it was around $220 and was very worth it. You are talking about a few tanks of gas worth of parts that will be on there for long time.

 

[Travis 76]

Good bearings should last you 20 years or more. Well worth the price.

 

[greentruck]

SNIP

Brass bit is the front spindle bush but if your existing spindles are the later type they will have needle roller bearings and a smaller brass bush.

SNIP

That bushing may be the half-bushing that goes with the needle bearing when you use the updated arrangement in the spindle. There should be a couple of needle bearings to go with those or it's an incomplete kit, whoever made it. The old style full bushing is longer IIRC.

 

[-Spike-]

Toyota uses a special inner axle seal design, with a bellows that allows the axle to move around. That one will most likely fail early. When I tried that type of axle seal, they failed in months.

 

[BILT4ME]

Get the kit with Koyo bearings from Cruiser Outfitters.

I installed my kit in 2014 and I have put on 84K miles since. Only thing I've HAD to do was readjust the wheel bearings because I followed the FSM and set them too loose.

They wheel bearings should be set to 25-35 LB-FT (not LB-IN per the FSM) for the inner nut and 45 LB-FT for the outer nut.

Lots of videos and links here to walk you through it.

 

[mattg141]

Watch the OTRAMM video on 80 knuckle rebuild. You will see the parts used.
Yes on the drive flange gasket. Same picture....those are for a manual hub. You may not need them.
The big metal ring with the rubber gasket is a dust shield that goes on the outside of the brake dust shield.
Split Flat metal ring, rubber ring, and felt with the metal half circles w/bolt holes is the wiper assembly
Picture with the 2 thin bolts, thrust washer, and locking washer hold the rotor assembly to the hub.
The two very thin metal pieces are spacers for the knuckle bearing to adjust preload.
Just finished my birfields yesterday so it is fresh.

 

[ucmikej]

Thanks for all the replies.

I know the wheel bearings need to be changed but not sure if I should just do the whole knuckle rebuilt while at it and get the Cruiser Outfitter's Kit which include Timken wheel bearings (Koyo out of stock). I think I'll get the knuckle rebuild kit. The P.O. didn't take good care of the vehicle.

Thanks again guys.

 

[bicycleagent003]

If you wheel your truck, I suggest keeping some of those parts with your trail spares (that you take with you on the trail). Specifically the star washers and at least one trunion and wheel bearing. Others may suggest additional parts to bring on the trail, too. Just a thought.