hmm... pitman arm is rubbing on the wheel. what should i do. does any one need any 15 in wheels?
whats wrong with this picture? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 74fj40
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- #2
oh and what part is this, and where does it go?
bottom pic looks like it came off an engine stand
Looks from the pic that you mean the steering arm on the knuckle. I had that problem and used 1/4" aluminum spacers. I was running aluminum Outlaws on drummies. Now I have the same wheels on a '77 DB axle and do not have any problems, and don't need the spacers.
I have a set of spacers that you can have for $5 plus the postage. You need to retorque them several times after 25-50 mile increments. They also reduce the amount of stud that is engaged by the lug nut. I ran them for 5-6K miles with no problems.
GL
Ed
I have a set of spacers that you can have for $5 plus the postage. You need to retorque them several times after 25-50 mile increments. They also reduce the amount of stud that is engaged by the lug nut. I ran them for 5-6K miles with no problems.
GL
Ed
dgangle
total rice
If you want longer studs use those from the rear axle of an 83-84 FJ60. Measure about 3/8" longer than stock FJ40 studs. These are what is supplied as part of the MAF FDB kit.
it goes here74fj40 said:
best bet is to get a couple skinnier rims. i'm dealing with that problem as well... well, a little more complicated than that. PO ran 12 inch wide rims, and when the steering arms rubbed he swapped them side to side and shortened the tie-rod. bad idea.... on the to-be-fixed list. there's a little snippet about this problem in the most recent TT, as well, in the tech section.
max
go to a tire store or napa,carquest,whatever and get you some 1/4 inch spacers 6 on 5 1/2 that should take care of the rubbin
go to a tire store or napa,carquest,whatever and get you some 1/4 inch spacers 6 on 5 1/2 that should take care of the rubbin
- Thread starter
- #9
I already had the spacers, thats still not enough, the wheel still hits the weight on the rim(the one that balances the rim) Should i just get some of those spacers from marlin crawler?
then you need
different rims or thicker spacers
different rims or thicker spacers
Top pic looks like the backspace on your rim is more than the stock 3.5in. I had some wheels with 4in one time. I swaped the steering arms and made a new steering bar (forgot what it is called).
hth,
hth,
dgangle
total rice
I'd go with different rims. They must have some steamroller backspacing. I had very close clearance with my 75 and when I went to 79-85 minitruck FDB the problem went away as there is a different bend to the steering arms. Plus I got rid of my cheesy aluminum wheel spacers.
Just for chuckles you should send some pics of your swapped steering arms to the guy who posts pics on this site. It will be good for countless laughs.
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html
The wheel has been invented already! good luck.
Just for chuckles you should send some pics of your swapped steering arms to the guy who posts pics on this site. It will be good for countless laughs.
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html
The wheel has been invented already! good luck.
Get some cheapo steel rims with 3.5 or less inches of backspacing. I would probably go 3.25" just to be safe..
yooper
SILVER Star
Max, the Pitman arm is attached to your steering box - there is only one - it's the very first part of the steering linkage. Those arms on the knuckles are just called steering arms.
- Thread starter
- #15
I know I was just testing you guys 
if you wheels would clear without the weights, I would have the wheels balanced with stick on weights. You should have enough clearance between the rim and drum for them.
warpdriv said:
the bar is called a tie-rod, and it's not a good idea to do it this way... you lose your correct ackerman angle (wheels turn at different angles throughout a corner) and probably end up going through tires quickly. am i correct? mine is the same way and it's eating up my swampers
I have 12" wide rims, use the aluminum spacers (which obviously moves you out on the stud and my understanding changes the load bearing point more to the stud which now begins approaching it's load strength(you go to far you get risky and I imagine the type of driving,tire size and rims also have an impact). Is this correct?). I also went to the tape on balance weights and believe I gained a bit more when the bearings were changed (Is my recollection correct that the new bearings would provide more spacing). "It don't rub no more."
Good Luck
John
Good Luck
John
