Title pretty much sums it up?
what's the proper way to clean a spark plug? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
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MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
Toss it and buy new ones! I can't remember ever trying to clean one. My dad used to work on muscle cars when I was a kid and he never cleaned one either. My .02 
- Thread starter
- #3
Well, i just bought denso iridium plugs about a month ago and today i ordered new plug wires, rotor and cap. Figured if you could touch the plugs up a little so they would be in "like new" condition to top off the install; you know, attention to detail.
Fire some brake cleaner on it, and wipe it with a rag. Smear some anti-sieze on the threads, dab a little dielectric grease on the wire end, and slap it together. Don't miss the variety of tricks to keep your socket on the extension. My personal fave is duct taping the sockets/extensions together.
DougM
DougM
- Thread starter
- #5
IdahoDoug said:
Thank you sir.
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
Now I see the light! At about $10 a pop and still new, I am sure a little rubbing alcohol would take care of business for the plugs and a couple #6 for you for a job well done! 
The gas stations used to have little sand blasting machines for plugs before plugs became cheaper. These days, if I want to use a plug more, I just brush it clean with a soft wire brush and use a gap spacer to re gap them before installing.
Kalawang
Kalawang
concretejungle said:
Another reason to clean them is after using a product like (SeaFoam). Usually it will leave a slight deposit on the plugs and cleaning "Iridiums" makes sense.
I use a "brass" wire wheel on my benchtop grinder and get very good results, with no damage to the plug (unless you don't hold on tight enough).
R
robbie
Guest
Unless you know you are either overfueling or burning oil, I would leave the plugs alone. They are not delicate but if you screw up the tip you will be buying a new plug. jsut my thoughts. later robbie
IdahoDoug said:
Anti-seize compounds contain aluminum or copper, which is highly conductive. While you may not screw up the plugs right away, the next time you install them you may get old compound from the hole onto the electrode, which can short it out. If you are very conservative in applying the anti-seize you may get away with this for a long time.... or you may not. Just a word or warning.
I like aluminum anti-seize and use it everywhere, except on the spark plugs. I dab a little bit of clean motor oil on the threads and call it good.
The dielectric grease is a terrific practice - it seals out moisture and makes it easy to remove the cap. Don't forget to put a generous amount around the "boot" at the top that keeps water from leaking down into the plug cavity.
While the plug is in your hands, at least check the gap. There is no reason to reinstall usable plugs that have opened up without setting them back to manufacturer's specs. Gap setting technique is a whole 'nother thread....
My own practice with plugs is to throw used ones away - I use copper tipped NGK plugs and change them fairly often. It isn't a big job and I always know the condition of the plugs and am only out about $12 for the set. My main worry with lifetime plugs is that they will seize in the head and then you are in big trouble.
John Davies
96 LX450
- Thread starter
- #11
Robbie is right, the tips of the iridiums are very small and appear to be delicate. I was just going to spray some carb cleaner on them, wipe them with a rag and call it good.
I use the high temp copper anti seize on the plugs, but i always apply sparingly, so hopefully none will come off onto the plug tip.
Thanks all, and considering these plugs are over $10 a piece, i do not want to replace them any time soon.
I use the high temp copper anti seize on the plugs, but i always apply sparingly, so hopefully none will come off onto the plug tip.
Thanks all, and considering these plugs are over $10 a piece, i do not want to replace them any time soon.
Concretejungle,
Get yourself a locking extention (6") for the plugs change - cost only a few buck for a Craftsman at Sears & be worry free (duct tape might not hold in some situations). Also spray some silicon grease on the rubber insert of the plug socket - you wouldn't want a stucked socket or rubber insert down there in the tube.
SJ.
Get yourself a locking extention (6") for the plugs change - cost only a few buck for a Craftsman at Sears & be worry free (duct tape might not hold in some situations). Also spray some silicon grease on the rubber insert of the plug socket - you wouldn't want a stucked socket or rubber insert down there in the tube.
SJ.
