What’s the easiest way to secure traction boards to factory roof system (2 Viewers)

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Hi all,

I searched and found a couple of relevant threads, but none that get to what I am looking for.

Planning a trip for this weekend with the wife. It’s been raining non stop here in east TX. I am planning to take traction boards in case the water churns up mud.

Wanted to know if there is an easy way to securely mount the traction boards to the factory rack. In the future I’ll have a “real” roof rack but for now I am willing to spend up to a couple hundred dollars to get something that will work for the next few months.

I’ve looked at various products but haven’t been able to find a simple solution yet. I don’t want a full roof basket…ideally I want to have easy on and off clamps with pins for the boards

this product with clamps would be just right.


Please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions. Thanks!
 
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Found this thread after altering my
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Best ideas so far:
- drilling — nogo for me as it will compromise the rigidity or the factory bars
- use a bag and stick them inside
- bungees

I’ll start with a bag because I’ve been on the receiving end of faulty bungees.
 
I'm on a trip now. I'm not chasing any expo cred, good ol bungees have never failed me.

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Found this thread after altering my
Search parameters


Best ideas so far:
- drilling — nogo for me as it will compromise the rigidity or the factory bars
- use a bag and stick them inside
- bungees

I’ll start with a bag because I’ve been on the receiving end of faulty bungees.
Another option is to find a couple more rails (dealer takeoffs etc)...I believe Eric Sargent at Ed Martin has helped other forum members in the past, and then drill through those etc without worry about the rigidity piece.
 
Bungee cords or zip ties. I use zip ties.

The roof rails are adjustable. If you can move them back away from the sun roof that is a plus If you use your sun roof. If it rains the maxtrax will collect water. If you have the sunroof open the first bump or small turn will be like splash mountain inside. They hold more water than you think. lol
 
I've heard of people using Yakima Mighty Mounts to give you something to bolt things to the factory roof rack with. I think @grinchy may have attached his traction boards that way.

Here it is:

 
Drill into crossbars, use maxtrax pins.

There's no point in having them if you can't easily access them. The maxtrax pins are easy on, easy off, and secure mounts.

The holes don't significantly impact the crossbars, but if it concerns you, add a couple more. They are easy to add (I had 5x on my last 200, but haven't gotten around to installing them on this one yet).

They are super accessible in this position, mine have gotten good use.

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If you drill through the rail, you might want to take one off to look at the extrusion profile. Or look for a picture of it. It is hollow, but I know there is a vertical rib through it somewhere, but can't remember if it's off center or where exactly it is. I think you'd want to avoid drill through that rib. With that exception, i definitely agree that drilling through is cheapest functional solution (other than bungy cords).
 
If you drill through the rail, you might want to take one off to look at the extrusion profile. Or look for a picture of it. It is hollow, but I know there is a vertical rib through it somewhere, but can't remember if it's off center or where exactly it is. I think you'd want to avoid drill through that rib. With that exception, i definitely agree that drilling through is cheapest functional solution (other than bungy cords).
Any idea where to get the cross section profile? TIA
 
I still have a rail in my shed. I can take a picture of it later after I get home. I noticed it when I was adapting a LX rail to fit on my new to me LC rails. 2 screws remove the end piece that slides into the roof rail. You can easily see the extrusion shape at that point.
 
I still have a rail in my shed. I can take a picture of it later after I get home. I noticed it when I was adapting a LX rail to fit on my new to me LC rails. 2 screws remove the end piece that slides into the roof rail. You can easily see the extrusion shape at that point.
That would be great and potentially save me from embarrassing my self. Going to try just a hole on the top of crossmember with a rivnut.
 
I didn't run into any obstructions drilling about halfway.
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Btw, I do not have metric drills, so I went with 13/32nds.
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I'm on a trip now. I'm not chasing any expo cred, good ol bungees have never failed me.

View attachment 2723502

I purchased the maxtrax pins when I bought my boards. I didn't realize they don't offer a 2 board pin height. They add a lot of additional height when only running two boards. Debating the switch to a bungee/strap solution instead.
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I purchased the maxtrax pins when I bought my boards. I didn't realize they don't offer a 2 board pin height. They add a lot of additional height when only running two boards. Debating the switch to a bungee/strap solution instead.View attachment 2723612
Couldn't you disassemble them and put them back togeter with a shorter bolt (or cut down the bolt) leaving off one of the segments? Or carry 4 maxtrax...they come in very handy.
 
I like that style, I can use that as a temp setup. How is your rotopax mounted on there? What is the antenna for?

Fuelpax on a DIY carrier with fuelpax retention mechanism



Antenna is a Weboost Reach cellular booster magnetic antenna

 

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