I got a new canoe. I knew I’d have to lift the rear to open the liftgate. But this is more than I expected at about 5”. I could add a spacer under the rear crossbar, but it would look pretty silly being that high. So the next option would be removing the spoiler. Or, just continue loosening the straps. But one day I’m going to forget and crack the super-lightweight Kevlar/carbon hull…
I’m guessing there are mounting holes and a wire for the light. Who’s already done this, and how’s it look?
I had my favorite body shop remove the spoiler and clean up the paint underneath. It looks fine after buffing. They used black plastic plugs for the holes. They look a little raw but I think I will soon tune them out. Cost was only $80, with a low shop rate of $56 per hr.
Even with my rear canoe gunwale brackets shimmed upward 1.5 inches to tilt up the stern, there was no way I could get spoiler clearance. I was afraid of breaking the spoiler. I could not get my truck and canoe into the garage with the shimmed mounts raised. Now I should be able to remove the shims and get it in easily...
Ah, good ol' John Davies for always having an answer to a problem. Not only does he have an LC, but also had an Oliver travel trailer like mine. So he had an even more extensive list of overly detailed modifications on the Oliver forum. John sold his Olive a year or so ago for health reasons. I'm not sure if he still has the LC.
It wasn't clear in that thread whether the newer body style has the bumps as shown on the LX. Next week I'll remove mine and see how it looks.
