Whats my window for adjusting the valves? (update: FJ62) (1 Viewer)

[TexFJ]

OK, FSM says you have to warm up the engine before adjusting the valves. Great. I will warm it up, but will it stay warm enough while I struggle with the valve cover, TDC, checking... etc.?

What's my window here? hour?

 

[Seth S]

Last time I did mine engine was cold and I just adjusted them .002” to the loose side. My valves were way out.....like .005 to .010 out of spec to the loose side. so .002” loose across the board was a major improvement. When I have the intake and exhaust back on I’ll warm things up and check the clearance again.

 

[mattressking]

Do the adjustment cold. Once its set, drive the car, get it nice and hot, then pop the air cleaner/valve cover off and while idling the truck, use feeler gauges to verify clearances. If its too loose or too tight, note which valves and adjust.

 

[FJACS]

As noted above you can run the engine with the valve cover removed to keep the temp up.

I don’t adjust with it running. It beats up your feeler gauges. But a few restarts to maintain temps is helpful if you’re going to adjust the valves one cylinder at a time.

 

[2mbb]

the first time you do it you will undoubtedly be slow. you can go through and set them all, then run the engine again to warm things up, and check them. I have also done them cold as described above, with very little difference

Below is a link to a post with my procedures using my table above. You need to be sure you can identify when cylinder 1 is at top dead center on the compression stroke and on the exhaust stroke. Many folks (not necessarily you) don't really understand that 4 stroke engines can be at TDC for either compression or exhaust.

I do remove all the spark plugs, which means you can't run the engine to keep it warm, but I can use the alternator pulley nut to rotate the engine. I highlighted the TDC mark on the front of the flywheel with white paint so it is easy to see. If you want to do this, it's easy to remove the clutch inspection cover (below the bell housing, then you can see much more of the flywheel so you can find and paint the mark.

I highly recommend getting some step feeler gauges for this. It makes it very simple to know when the gap is correct. Once you have some familiarity with the procedure you can get through it in about 30 minutes. Good luck!

right way to do it wrong

hello gurus.. i am about to attempt my first valve adj. on my 88 fj62. per the fsm and here on mud i know that the engine needs to be hot for a proper adjustment but i know this being new to me the engine will be cold well before i get through it. i have read a couple of places that people set...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[g-man]

My thread on adjusting the valves: How to adjust your 2f valve clearance

their is discussion about keeping the engine warm in this thread.

 

[TexFJ]

Forgot to mention that I have a 62 hence I was under the impression that you can't idle it with the cover off due to the needed PCV.

 

[g-man]

60's have a pcv valve too. Not critical. Let it vent to atmosphere.

 

[Godwin]

Forgot to mention that I have a 62 hence I was under the impression that you can't idle it with the cover off due to the needed PCV.

That's correct. Bring it up to operating temperature, pull the intake tube, throttle cable, misc. vacuum hoses, valve cover and work through the valves. The engine will retain enough heat that you can do this before it cools too much.

First time is a learning experience, after that the process will go smoother and quicker.

 

[Godwin]

60's have a pcv valve too. Not critical. Let it vent to atmosphere.

Simply opening the oil cap on a FJ62 sets up a huge vacuum leak that will cause a 3FE to run very rough.

 

[Seth S]

Go for a 10 mile drive and when you get back tear into the valves check/adjust. The engine will stay warm enough for this for the amount of time its going to take you. Also a good time to put in a new valve cover gasket if you haven't replaced it in a while.

 

[Skniper]

The stuff-to-be-removed on a 3FE is a good thing to rehearse a couple times, keep things loose as possible while getting it warmed up, it will speed up access to the valve train. Don't remember exactly what needs to come off, it's been too long since I did mine.

 

[TexFJ]

ok. real time confusion on my TDC mark. pic is of one full rotation of flywheel. which one is it? I'm assuming the circle.
It's been 30 min... hopefully still warm @g-man you had a line and a circle but you said yours was a line, I have no line

 

[2mbb]

the window gives you maybe 15degrees of view. there would be 24 pictures if you are trying to show the whole circumference of the flywheel through the window. Its probably easiest to craw under the truck and remove the clutch inspection cover from the bottom of the bell housing. Then, while looking at the forward-facing of the fly wheel look for a vertical line. 7 degrees away (clockwise) will be a round mark, often referred to as the "BB". This is the 7deg before TDC timing mark. I stole the picture from another thread. when you find the line paint it with light-colored paint or nail polish so you can find it more easily in the window.

 

[Seth S]

There should be BB that represents 7 deg


some pics from the google

 

[TexFJ]

Thanks guys. Seems I was looking for a definite line, however it seems that the FSM shows two dots.

So I went back and found the dots not the line.

 

[TexFJ]

Just my luck. I thought I was going to get rid of the slight clicking but I found some tight valves and now it's clicking louder. Not too bad but at least I know that it's tuned. I'm assuming someone complained about some clicking and they found the valve then tightened it up.

Also, @Godwin @g-man ... here's me trying to start the 62 with the valve cover off. It's Willie's b-day so it's willie on the radio non-stop here in Austin.

 

[TexFJ]

the window gives you maybe 15degrees of view. there would be 24 pictures if you are trying to show the whole circumference of the flywheel through the window. Its probably easiest to craw under the truck and remove the clutch inspection cover from the bottom of the bell housing. Then, while looking at the forward-facing of the fly wheel look for a vertical line. 7 degrees away (clockwise) will be a round mark, often referred to as the "BB". This is the 7deg before TDC timing mark. I stole the picture from another thread. when you find the line paint it with light-colored paint or nail polish so you can find it more easily in the window.

View attachment 2289825

I posted all the dots that I found along the way, and skipped the empty degrees

Are these someone's marks for the timing gun? why so many?

 

[Skniper]

If you are talking about the yellow painted markings, they seem to coincide with a flywheel bolt in the photos, maybe just bolt location markers, or torque markers. (?)

 

[g-man]

There are a few ways to make sure the engine is TDC. They require two persons... You can put a screwdriver tip down the #1 plug hole. Obviously make sure the handle of the screwdriver is larger than the hole, and slowly by hand turn the flywheel either by pulling on the crank belt or grabbing the flywheel with a rag in you hands and turning it. You'll need to remove the flywheel inspection cover at the bottom of the bellhousing and turn(truck in neutral parking brake on) until the screwdriver comes to the highest position. Another way is to pull the #1 plug and put your thumb over the hole and crank (but not start) the motor until the air blows your thumb off the hole. Either of these way will get you close and you should see the right TDC mark in the timing window and move the flywheel a little more to get the tdc line on the pointer.

Read through my thread for instructions and pics: How to adjust your 2f valve clearance

Once you have found the TDC line and have the motor tdc, pull off the dizzy cover and if the pointer is pointing toward the block (between 3 and 4 plug holes) then you can adjust A's and B's on the chart.

Then if you are working alone, maybe best to pull off the bell housing dust cover under the truck and make a mark at 6 oclock position on the flywheel, now turn the flywheel 360 around to the mark again. Now check the TDC mark is on the indicator in the timing window and verify that the dizzy pointer is pointing away from the motor ....now you can adjust C's and D's in the chart.

Hope this helps.