- Thread starter
- #21
so is the consensus to save, screw the mig idea, and get a tig/stick? if i can weld just about anything with that i would have no problem saving up.
what welder to get?
- Thread starter saint60
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I don't doubt TIG is sweet and a great setup, but MIG welding is good, reliable, cheap. So don't think you HAVE to have a TIG.
I have a stick welder, little 230amp one, just sold a 290amp one. Traded my Lincoln Weldpak 100 (110v fluxcore with the MIG kit) to my dad. Now making a cheap-O Ready Welder. Hopefully this works out. I still want a 220v MIG setup, but I can count on one hand the number of times I probably would have used it in the past few years, and the $$$ has other places to go...
I have a stick welder, little 230amp one, just sold a 290amp one. Traded my Lincoln Weldpak 100 (110v fluxcore with the MIG kit) to my dad. Now making a cheap-O Ready Welder. Hopefully this works out. I still want a 220v MIG setup, but I can count on one hand the number of times I probably would have used it in the past few years, and the $$$ has other places to go...
was looking at a Lincoln 3200HD at HOme depot (Wire/MIG).
110V machine comes with gas fittings etc. $450 or so.
Lincoln web site says 25-135A and can do 5/16" steel with flux cored.
Guy at HD says it can do 3/16" steel (but not 1/4"). That true or even overoptimistic?
Maybe with preheating with a torch?
There is a 5000 model that does 30-175A. Would that do 1/4"?
E
110V machine comes with gas fittings etc. $450 or so.
Lincoln web site says 25-135A and can do 5/16" steel with flux cored.
Guy at HD says it can do 3/16" steel (but not 1/4"). That true or even overoptimistic?
Maybe with preheating with a torch?
There is a 5000 model that does 30-175A. Would that do 1/4"?
E
e9999 said:
I would take a look at the duty cycles. My guess is that the duty cycle of the 3200 is pretty low at 135 amps. This is not likely a big deal for home use. My feeling is that a 110 volt welder is stretched when welding 1/4 plate, plus you are likely to need a 20a outlet to support this current. That said, if the manual says that it can do it, and you can take it back if it dosn't, it's worth a try. As for torch preheating, this is not usually a good idea in many applications because the uneven temperatures will tend to distort the structure you are welding due to thermal expansion.
What do you guys think of this Miller 150 TIG?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45031&item=3853929112&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45031&item=3853929112&rd=1
Very nice, but no aluminum. The Miller maxstars are used extensively in stainless tube fabrication for the pharmaceutical industry. They do not offer the versatility of an ac/dc unit, but that versitility doubles the price. For restoration quality body work, this welder would be fantastic.
For lot's of welding of material 3/16 or bigger, a mig would be faster.
For lot's of welding of material 3/16 or bigger, a mig would be faster.
Looked at that again. It is shipped only with the stick options. Not much of a deal.
IDave said:
Arcone K100sts
Proud owner of the 100 amps love it it is great for sheet metal it's 115
weight 15lb and has a shoulder strap, I don't have a garage so I hav to weld outside an not having to carry around 100lbs welder is a big plus
if you search on ebay they sell for around $400 which is $150 less than what I have seen in retail welding supplies ...
Last edited:
Gus
SILVER Star
Junk said:I already have a tig thanksI have the Thermal Arc Prowave 185. Nice small inverter unit both AC/DC with pulse available in both.
aaahhhh, tiggin ss.....
oh, and just for good measure
Very nice Junk
I have the 220V Millermatic 175 and love it. I think with the gas, extra wire, leathers, helmet (was free with promotion going on), cart it was around $900. If you only have $500...then get a stick welder and practice practice practice.
I too am looking for a welder. I don't know how to weld and may not even continue doing it, but I figure I can always just sell the welder if it doesn't work out for me.
What do you guys think of this one? http://www.millerwelds.com/products/multiprocess/xmt_304_cc_cv/ It is a little bit more expensive than I originally wanted, but appears I will not be left wanting if I get this one.
I'd like to be able to weld on my frame and axles and fabricate bumpers, sliders, roll bars etc.
I also want to make bicycles.
I am just looking right now. I am going to go take some classes at the local junior college before I buy something.
What do you guys think of this one? http://www.millerwelds.com/products/multiprocess/xmt_304_cc_cv/ It is a little bit more expensive than I originally wanted, but appears I will not be left wanting if I get this one.
I'd like to be able to weld on my frame and axles and fabricate bumpers, sliders, roll bars etc.
I also want to make bicycles.
I am just looking right now. I am going to go take some classes at the local junior college before I buy something.
Is there no one with advice?
I recently bught a Millermatic 135, 110V mig welder. It does a great job on body pannels and will weld 3/8" steel in multiple passes. Plus I can run it anywhere, it's 110V. I also have a gas bottle and run solid .023 and .035 wire. Cost around $750 complete. I also work for a company that manufacturers welding hoods so that didn't cost as much. I suggest you invest in an Auto Darkening hood too. It makes learning much easier.
Rob
Rob
e-man, that looks like a fairly high end production welder. Unless you are opening a shop, it may be overkill.
What kind of bikes do you want to make? I don't think the xmt does aluminum. For steel, you don't need to spend that much.
for aluminum bikes I would look at a synchrowave 250. That's what I have. It can weld almost anything to almost anything, but is relatively slow compared to mig. For steel framed bikes, a smaller DC tig welder be fine. For bumpers (1/8 to 1/4 mild steel) an all in one mig (millermatic) would be cheaper and faster.
Plus, the synchrowave 250 has been made for many years. Although I bought new because I didn't know anything about welders, I am convinced that these machines could be bought pretty cheap used.
What kind of bikes do you want to make? I don't think the xmt does aluminum. For steel, you don't need to spend that much.
for aluminum bikes I would look at a synchrowave 250. That's what I have. It can weld almost anything to almost anything, but is relatively slow compared to mig. For steel framed bikes, a smaller DC tig welder be fine. For bumpers (1/8 to 1/4 mild steel) an all in one mig (millermatic) would be cheaper and faster.
Plus, the synchrowave 250 has been made for many years. Although I bought new because I didn't know anything about welders, I am convinced that these machines could be bought pretty cheap used.
Thanks for the input guys! I know that welder is a pro job, but like I said I just don't want to be left wanting. That particular one is Multi-Process TIG, MIG and Stick AC and DC.
When I get the chance I have been reading what I can about welding. I bought a book and it was all over TIG as being the best welding process. The more I learn the more it looks like a good MIG welder will do everything I need it to. Apparently I could do everything I need with a stick welder it would just take longer and be a little uglier.
I want to make Steel bikes. Aluminum should be left up to the big bike shops with all of their hydroforming and other such fancy stuff. Folks that want to ride steel bikes prefer simplicity.
When I get the chance I have been reading what I can about welding. I bought a book and it was all over TIG as being the best welding process. The more I learn the more it looks like a good MIG welder will do everything I need it to. Apparently I could do everything I need with a stick welder it would just take longer and be a little uglier.
I want to make Steel bikes. Aluminum should be left up to the big bike shops with all of their hydroforming and other such fancy stuff. Folks that want to ride steel bikes prefer simplicity.
For steel bikes, I vote for one of the small DC only inverters (maxstar).
maybe something like this (although I certainly can't vouch for this particular machine):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45031&item=7511494636&rd=1
It does tig, stick and is cheap.
maybe something like this (although I certainly can't vouch for this particular machine):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45031&item=7511494636&rd=1
It does tig, stick and is cheap.
I got a hobart 140 120v with gas and it rocks. It is pretty much idiot proof as it only has 4 heat settings and adjusts wire speed to current flow so you are always getting the optimal performance out of it.
Stick is fine but for thicker stuff and structural, though I wouldn't trust too many peoples skills as well as my own. If you are welding up a roll bar you can make the nice looking welds but think of the first time you go over on it, I would want it to hold together and save my life.
I tack cages, and anything thick with the hobart but have a shop do the final welding.
Stick is fine but for thicker stuff and structural, though I wouldn't trust too many peoples skills as well as my own. If you are welding up a roll bar you can make the nice looking welds but think of the first time you go over on it, I would want it to hold together and save my life.
I tack cages, and anything thick with the hobart but have a shop do the final welding.
Junk said:aaahhhh, tiggin ss.....
Damn. Now thats a fawkin weld.
I second the opinion that a welder is a lifetime purchase and you should save and get a good one.
Love my Lincoln Invertec V-205 TIG.
Similar threads
