What Tranny behind 4BDT in FJ40 and other questions..

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Folsom,

Where did you come up with the measurement conflicts? Was it in the area of the oil filter and the bump on the oil pan? That is about the only area that I can come up with that might be a problem with the 4BD2T in a 40.

Don
 
Depending on how comfortable you are with going a little deeper into fabbing, there are a couple other possibilities for E-brakes.

GM has a few newer vehicles with drum style E-brake inside the hat of a disc rotor. I've seen someone somewhere here on Mud modify the mounting flange on the axle tube so he could bolt the GM brake backing plate on in place of the Toyota plate.

The other one I think would take more "engineering". Someone outside the USA, maybe the Phillipines?, put some Subaru calipers with built in E-brakes (similar to Eldorado calipers) on his 40. I did some looking into this. You'd need to come up with a mounting plate like is used to put the GM disc calipers on, except the caliper mounting points are different than the GM caliper. I'd want to make sure the caliper from that small a vehicle would have enough clamping pressure for a 40.

Something like this would allow you to use the parts you mention in your previous post.

Don

Hey Don,

Thanks for the input. I feel pretty comfortable with fabbing stuff, so if I figured out the parts to start with I could probably make something work. Honestly- if I were to go to a split case, I would probably just keep my eye out for a set of 60 axles and that would give me an e-brake and the wider stance for the SOA wouldn't be a bad thing anyway.

I can almost guarantee that the 150 and H55f are going to give you the same length or pretty darn close. Double check the measurement from rhino because I am sure that his length is due to the doubler that he is running. The distance from the AA chevota bell housing to the mating surface of my split case output shaft (AA bell, H55F, split case) is 32 1/4". That is a pretty tidy fit. The IDS and similar dual flywheel adapters only add 3/4 of the overall length. Also a 13BT and 4bd1t is almost identical in size and weight. They fit just fine in 40's with H55Fs and split cases.

Clint

Clint,

His added length is definitely due to the doubler. However, at this point, that is the only way that I can find to mate the older style tcases to an r150- to the best of my knowledge no one makes an adapter to go from r150 to old style tcase directly.

BTW, thanks for the measurements! I have highlighted them for others reference.
 
Here is a link to 4BD1/2T dimensions On the link it says for the 4BG1T but they are dimensionally the same motor- as stated in the "Isuzu 4BD1T swap?!" thread: Dimensions
 
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A couple nice things, the radiator off the stepvan is almost exactly the same width as a 40, so the IC is about a perfect fit. It also looks like a person can just flip the 40s fan shroud over.

I need to figure out nv4500 lengths.

Good to know! especially about the intercooler- as more cold air into a diesel is ALWAYS a good things! ;) Means you can turn the fueling up! And please post up NV4500 lengths when you get some!



Does anyone on this thread have the thickness depth of the IC that we could post up for others future reference?



Anyone know the depth of the Isuzu bellhousing for measuring purposes? Every inch matters in a 40!



Clint, could you perhaps give us dimension for the AA Chevota bell housing, h55f, and splitcase individually? I would sure appreciate it man!
 
twoturtlesracing said:
Good to know! especially about the intercooler- as more cold air into a diesel is ALWAYS a good things! ;) Means you can turn the fueling up! And please post up NV4500 lengths when you get some!

Does anyone on this thread have the thickness depth of the IC that we could post up for others future reference?

Anyone know the depth of the Isuzu bellhousing for measuring purposes? Every inch matters in a 40!

Clint, could you perhaps give us dimension for the AA Chevota bell housing, h55f, and splitcase individually? I would sure appreciate it man!

Won't be able to get to them till Saturday. I am on a 48! What about just running minitruck running gear?

I like the idea of the NV4500 though with the stock 9.5 diffs. Very stout set up.

Also IC sizes vary. Mine is close to 3" thick.

Clint
 
The IC thickness 2.5" Longbow, the possible problem is my 2t has a fuel filter assy with a bunch of hard lines running to and from it on the far right rear of the engine. If I keep the engine set to the rear for ic clearance up front, I'm not sure theres room in the recess against the firewall. It's going to be right in the same place as the heater valve. The best thing to do is just pull my motor and do a test fit. Keeping the engine all the way back may also cause length problems with a nv4500.
 
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There will be more problems with turbo to brake booster clearance than on the fuel filter side. You can always remote mount the filter and use a mounting head that accepts more common bigger, better filters that cost the same.
The heater valve shouldn't be a problem if the engine is moved forward.

Tomorrow I can measure lengths of both an NV4500/splitcase and an H55/splitcase.
 
FL cruiser said:
Tomorrow I can measure lengths of both an NV4500/splitcase and an H55/splitcase.

That would be GREAT! Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app
 
There will be more problems with turbo to brake booster clearance than on the fuel filter side. You can always remote mount the filter and use a mounting head that accepts more common bigger, better filters that cost the same.
The heater valve shouldn't be a problem if the engine is moved forward.

Tomorrow I can measure lengths of both an NV4500/splitcase and an H55/splitcase.

I did some more measuring last night and I started to see exactly that, the turbo and bb that is. Why did toyota decide to use a beer keg for it's brake booster?
 
Look for mini truck booster mod for the 40s. Should give some extra room. Also if you look through my build thread you will see where I built my own turbo adapter. Might be an option to move it forward a but to gain some real estate.

Clint
 
Dirtgypsy said:
Look for mini truck booster mod for the 40s. Should give some extra room. Also if you look through my build thread you will see where I built my own turbo adapter. Might be an option to move it forward a but to gain some real estate.

Clint

Your adapter looked great Clint! Gave me some ideas for putting twins in my dodge! ;)

Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app
 
IDS/Nv4500/AA adapter/splitcase:
It measures 35 1/4" from front of the adapter to flange where driveshaft bolts up.

IDS/Downey Bellhousing/H55/splitcase:
Subtracting Toybox, that combo is 31 3/4" adapter to DS flange.

----------------------------

Hydroboost boosters are very compact an work great. If the accumulator protrusion is in the way, the booster can be rotated 180 deg and free up more space.
 
FL cruiser said:
IDS/Nv4500/AA adapter/splitcase:
It measures 35 1/4" from front of the adapter to flange where driveshaft bolts up.

IDS/Downey Bellhousing/H55/splitcase:
Subtracting Toybox, that combo is 31 3/4" adapter to DS flange.

----------------------------

Hydroboost boosters are very compact an work great. If the accumulator protrusion is in the way, the booster can be rotated 180 deg and free up more space.

Yes, thank you!

And I hadn't thought about the hydroboost boosters! You almost would have to use one wouldn't you? Can you use the one off the Isuzu?

Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app
 
folsom50 said:
Thanks for those. Using a dieseltims adapter, a person could get the nv4500 numbers even shorter since it uses the stock flywheel and shallow isuzu bellhousing.

4BD Conversions - Isuzu 4BD Engine to an NV4500 Transmission Adapter Kits

Why not just use his new bell housing and completely bypass the Isuzu bell housing? That'd probably be the shortest setup for the NV.


Ok,

A quick update, I have found someone to do the programming for making the pattern to have the castings made. It looks like it will be a week or so before the pattern is ready. So, now on to the next stage.

For those of you that have been so eagerly awaiting the Gm tranny to Isuzu 4bd adapter housings.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj236/dieseltim/2012-03-14_10-32-51_597.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj236/dieseltim/2012-03-14_11-13-13_622.jpg

It looks like it can be done, but you are going to have to relocate the oil filter. I am still working on which flywheel and how it is going to mount.



I have been asked several times about the cost, at this time I will only say that I am trying to keep the cost a reasonable as I can. I am really trying to get the cost of the finished cast housing under $700, I really hope that the machine work will come out cheaper than I am estimating it at. If I can get all the machine time down then I am hoping to get under $600. I am also trying to find part #s for starters and pressure plates that can be bought locally so I can just give you the parts #s and you can get them right where you live, no shipping required, no markup, no problems.


Dieseltim
770-712-8644
Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app
 
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And I hadn't thought about the hydroboost boosters! You almost would have to use one wouldn't you? Can you use the one off the Isuzu?
You wouldn't have to. I haven't seen any on an Isuzu. the GM units are cheap and plentiful. $25 at Pik-N-Pull. Many GM trucks, some Mid 80's station wagons and many Astro vans.

The aftermarket tiny 7" vacuum boosters that are in all the disc brake kits for hot rods, kit cars, old muscle cars etc work great. I bought one on Ebay brand new for around $80 and it works well on my 5,000 lb 63 Chevy.
 
What do you have to do to modify the Hydroboost to work in a cruiser. I've been thinking about going that direction with my second conversion that way I can run a higher output alternator.

Does the mounting plate on the back of these unbolt or do you have to do all the modifications to the firewall?

Thanks,

Don
 
Wish I had taken pictures, but didn't.
Don, It will be simple for you.
The Hydroboost basically mounts in a large hole approx 2" in dia and is held on by a large spanner type nut.

I made an adapter out of a piece of 1/8 steel plate. Four holes got drilled in the plate to match the four holes in the firewall where the stock booster bolted on. Four bolts got put in the holes, heads tacked on so the bolts would be studs. Then a hole got cut in the center for the hydroboost to mount.
 
Found an old picture from an old swap.

lc14.jpg
 

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