What to do with stolen key..........

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What to do about my stolen valet key..........

Yesterday, I parked my '99 LC outside in front of my house garage. I did not realize that I had dropped my valet spare key on the ground. I had my 3 button key in my pocket. Three hours later, I went to vehicle, started to drive and realized that my car had been rifled. I checked to see how the thief actually got inside my vehicle, this is when I realized that I had dropped my valet key. Seems he open my lock and took my gps, and some tools I had in the back. Thankfully he did not drive off wth the vehicle altogether.

Now this person has a transponder enabled key. What should I do? Can I change the door cylinders? can I change the ignition cylinder without actually having to replace the ECU? any advise would be great as I don't want to parked my vehicle in the garage every time I go home for 10 mins or overnight. I am in a bind here.:eek:
 
Trunk Monkey said:
There's a way to delete all keys and add them in again, might be something the dealer has to do with Techstream.

X2 - this is possible.
 
There's a way to delete all keys and add them in again, might be something the dealer has to do with Techstream.

That keeps the person from driving off with the LC, but doesn't stop them from coming back and rifling through his belongings again.

Sorry to say, but you might be buying all new cylinders and keys...which is going to be huge $$$.
 
Anthony.L said:
That keeps the person from driving off with the LC, but doesn't stop them from coming back and rifling through his belongings again.

Sorry to say, but you might be buying all new cylinders and keys...which is going to be huge $$$.

Hmmm - pretty sure if car alarm is armed and key without correct transponder is used to open a door (which will not disarm the alarm) then the alarm will sound.

if that's true then reprogramming may be all thats needed (and locking car religiously).

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Hmmm - pretty sure if car alarm is armed and key without correct transponder is used to open a door (which will not disarm the alarm) then the alarm will sound.

The transponder inside the key is used for nothing but enabling the ignition. The doors can be opened with the key alone. Worse is I'm pretty sure the factory car alarm is actually disabled when the key is used to unlock the door. I remember a post here in the 100 forum years ago where a guy had his door handle pried open far enough to jimmy the lock which disabled the alarm. They jacked his stuff right in broad daylight of a golf course parking lot with no factory alarm going off.

Besides when has a car alarm really stopped anyone? 99% of the public completely ignores car alarms going off. Just like it's better to scream fire than help, more likely for someone to come to your assistance.
 
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The transponder inside the key is used for nothing but enabling the ignition. The doors can be opened with the key alone. Worse is I'm pretty sure the factory car alarm is actually disabled when the key is used to unlock the door. I remember a post here in the 100 forum years ago where a guy had his door handle pried open far enough to jimmy the lock which disabled the alarm. They jacked his stuff right in broad daylight of a golf course parking lot with no factory alarm going off.

Besides when has a car alarm really stopped anyone? 99% of the public completely ignores car alarms going off. Just like it's better to scream fire than help, more likely for someone to come to your assistance.

You're right. Just checked the Owners Manual and it seems to describe as you said:

The system will sound the alarm under
the following conditions:
1. If any of the side doors is unlocked or opened without the key or wireless remote control key, or if the back door or hood is forcibly opened.
2. If the battery terminal is disconnected and then reconnected.

The reason I thought key without transponder triggered the alarm is that I recently experienced a situation where the battery died (while car was locked and alarm armed) and the alarm went off when I reconnected battery and I assumed it was b/c I opened the car door while the alarm was armed without disarming it. In other words - I was using a legit key but without the ability to disarm since battery was dead. Now that I looked in the owners manual I realize it's the second scenario from the manual above - it had nothing to do with key opening without disarming rather it was b/c of battery being disconnected and reconnected while alarm is armed...
 
Using your master delete all keys and reprogram what keys you have. I did have the instructions for "delete all" printed off and apparently mis placed em.

I got the instructions off the giant key programming thread but had to look thru a ton of replies.
 
If you do this on your own with the instructions from the key programming thread, I would highly suggest doing it at the dealership parking lot in case something goes wrong when you erase all the keys from the system. You don't want to be dead in the water in your driveway and have to pay for a tow.
 
You're right. Just checked the Owners Manual and it seems to describe as you said:

The system will sound the alarm under
the following conditions:
1. If any of the side doors is unlocked or opened without the key or wireless remote control key, or if the back door or hood is forcibly opened.
2. If the battery terminal is disconnected and then reconnected.

Yup, so the only choice is replace the cylinder in all the doors at the very least. You might as well do the ignition unless you want to carry two keys in the event your factory alarm doesn't unlock the doors. Another option would be to hide a new door key under the car somewhere and only carry the ignition key with you.
 
Anthony.L said:
Yup, so the only choice is replace the cylinder in all the doors at the very least. You might as well do the ignition unless you want to carry two keys in the event your factory alarm doesn't unlock the doors. Another option would be to hide a new door key under the car somewhere and only carry the ignition key with you.

What about rekeying existing cylinders? Apparently that is an alternative to new cylinder in this kind of situation. very curious what the op ends up doing and how much it ends up costing...

worth getting quote from dealership as a frame of reference. but from quick searching looks like replacing cylinders or even rekeying can be a diy job, and if you're not comfortable doing it locksmiths can do either as well.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
If you do this on your own with the instructions from the key programming thread, I would highly suggest doing it at the dealership parking lot in case something goes wrong when you erase all the keys from the system. You don't want to be dead in the water in your driveway and have to pay for a tow.

He could tell the dealer he lost his only key and do the "one time ECU replacement" and pay for one new key. Would prally be cheaper that rekeying all the cylinders like others are talking about.

But... I agree he should do the "delete all" program at a dealer just in case.
 
Definitely a hassle you're dealing with, and regardless of decision is costing you time, cash and anguish.

Thought I would mention a security measure, and probably my best mod, I had installed several years ago on both of my cruisers. It's a DEI 103t starter kill. $35 small, backlighted keypad mounted next to the hood latch pull below the steering column.

Basically, you can have keys in ignition and listening to radio-someone jumps in to jack your car and the alarm triggers, starter does not crank unless you input your 3 digit code. Simple and effective. I paid to have it installed (20 minute job) and they have never malfunctioned or caused any electrical issues. It's a simple 2 second code input each time I start the truck-in fact it feels weird to hop in some other vehicle and not do this routine- kinda like not putting on your seatbelt!

So, the stolen valet key could be used to access the cab, but with the starter kill unit, someone would be prevented (or delayed a bit) in attempting to steal the rig.

I realize there are all levels of electronic gadgets and remote start bling---I only use a valet key and this simple security for peace of mind for me and my family.

Hope you get this resolved cheap and quick.
 
He could tell the dealer he lost his only key and do the "one time ECU replacement" and pay for one new key. Would prally be cheaper that rekeying all the cylinders like others are talking about.

But... I agree he should do the "delete all" program at a dealer just in case.

How does that solve the problem? The dealer just cuts a new key based on the VIN to match the existing cylinders...and then joe blow with the missing key still breaks into the car whenever he pleases.
 
He can't take the whole truck. If OP doesn't want to shell out to replace/rekey all the cylinders then this is a quick fix that will prevent the truck from being taken. Won't be able to leave anything of value in it for awhile.
 
Pull all the cylinders, including the ignition, and take them to a locksmith with your key(s) in hand. They can cut down one or two of the higher spots on the key, then rekey the cylinders to match.

Then do the delete all keys procedure, have some new ones cut, and register them to the Immobiliser.
 
Consider calling your insurance company. This could be covered.
 
Pull all the cylinders, including the ignition, and take them to a locksmith with your key(s) in hand. They can cut down one or two of the higher spots on the key, then rekey the cylinders to match.

Then do the delete all keys procedure, have some new ones cut, and register them to the Immobiliser.

This is excellent advice!
 
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