What the hell is going on???

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Do you have a FSM for your year/month of production? That might be a good starting place. Oh, and you are funnier in Chat than in Tech;):flipoff2:
you are no help what so ever....well, you were a little help.

Doesnt anyone own a FJ40 with a fxxxing VR on it??? Can a brotha get a picture or two??? bastids...:flipoff2:
:D
 
Did you check the link I posted????????????????????????


Jebus!!!!


Lack of planning(READING)! on your part does NOT constitute an emergency on my part:mad:


Ed
 
ok, i figured out what the extra wire is for...turns out you dont need it.

i hate electrical issues..

OK then.....brush your teeth, say your prayers, kiss your Tedddy and night-night:p


Ed:beer:
 
OK then.....brush your teeth, say your prayers, kiss your Tedddy and night-night:p


Ed:beer:

ok, after sucking my thumb all night i am still at my wits end with this s***. What havent i ruled out??

Alternator - ok
Battery- ok
VR - ok

the only thing i can think of is that somewhere in this truck it is not grounded right....where do i start???

this is gonna suck as bad as changing all the vacuum hoses in a 60..
 
:lol: SURE you have a good VR ? Same thing happened to me last year when the contacts froze in the VR.

Ran fine till I stalled it. Jumped it and limped home...:crybaby:
 
Alternator - ok
Battery- ok
VR - ok

How do you know this? Sorry, but I don't trust you:p
What is the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running?

Whodat....fxxx off.;) Even though it is Liam, it is still a tech question. If he'll get back on his Ritalin or Adderall or Strattera, maybe we can solve his problem.
 
Yeah, from personal experience DO NOT connect that blue wire to anything, it'll get fawked quicker 'n' a groom on his wedding night...

I had a condition similar to that, but it was because a screw-type quick disconnect I picked up at AutoZone was a cheap piece and broke, so I had intermittent connection between battery post and connector. Have you checked and wiggled all connections that might lead to this? Check the grounds, mounts, etc. these problems are always a bugger.
 
How do you know this? Sorry, but I don't trust you:p
What is the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running?

Whodat....fxxx off.;) Even though it is Liam, it is still a tech question. If he'll get back on his Ritalin or Adderall or Strattera, maybe we can solve his problem.
so you are saying i should stop using Calais??

When i took it to Autozone he said, and i am going from memory here, that it was 14.somthing at 2000 rpm. The battery came back as being ok, but it was very low on charge. I then changed out my battery with a redtop and also changed my alt to a new 55amp. The only thing i didnt change is the VR, which i did yesterday.

I havent driven the truck at all this weekend so i really dont know if it made a difference yet. I do know when i started it, and it barely started b/c the battery was low, that when i turned on the lights, radio and then blinker the radio did not go off, but when i turned the heater on the radio shut down...
 
Well, I'm no mechanic, but here is what I would do. Disconnect one of the battery cables and put the trickle charger or an automatic charger on the red top. When you get ready to drive it, reconnect the battery and take it for a 30+ minute drive without your radio on, shut it off and see if it restarts(might wanna park it on a hill, just in case).
Another thing to consider is running a ground strap from frame to engine and from frame to body. AZ has those straps for about $8@.
When I had a similar problem with my 3.0CS, there was a constant drain on the battery, the glovebox light. It killed 2 batteries before I figured it out. So, when you return home, disconnect the battery again, let it sit and try again.
Who installed the "radio?" Could be a short to ground there?

GL

Ed
 
had problems like this ALL the time in the wrangler i used to be stuck w/.... had the WHOLE damn thing stripped of wires and re-wired (by a shop) STILL had #@#$@# like that happening...
the way i fixed it was i sold the heep... never looked back
BUT! one time i had ALOT of luck by totally removing the battery taking it into the auto part store getting it checked inside on their big machine not the little one they roll outside... they said battery was fine put the thing BACK in and it worked fine for 3 more months... the reason i say remove it and reinstall it is b/c in doing that you tighten all the connectors and that kinda thing...

btw that green connector plugs into a fan on the driver side that blows air toward yr carb... (@least thats where it goes on mine)
 
When i took it to Auto zone he said, and i am going from memory here, that it was 14.something at 2000 rpm. The battery came back as being OK, but it was very low on charge. I then changed out my battery with a redtop and also changed my alt to a new 55amp. The only thing i didn't change is the VR, which i did yesterday.

OK... just so we are clear on this. You had the original alternator/battery tested and they were OK. Right?

Then (for reasons not clear to me) you replaced the alternator and battery with different ones? How do you KNOW the NEW ones are working properly? :confused:

Degnol asked you this at least twice: Have you checked the voltage at the battery terminals with the truck running? It MUST be above 12.6 volts to charge the battery. Any lower than this and something is not working.

Start at the battery and clean the battery cable ends to clean lead. Follow the cables to their other end, remove that end, clean it to shiny metal and put it back. You need a battery to frame cable and a frame to engine cable. The alternator and regulator MUST be grounded in order to work properly.

Fuses and/or Fusible links good?
 
ok, problem solved...................

i took a bunch of electrical tape off and traced wires back. Come to find out two of the wires were mixed up going into the Alt. Now my AMP meter is pegged to the right until i turn everything on and then it falls around 3/4 to 2/3 mark......

everything seems to be hunky dory now.

please call me a moron at your leisure....
 
You moron at my leisure.:D
 
so where should my AMP meter needle be? what is normal?

it's amazing how much my electrical system improved....lol The windshield wipers actually seem like they have two speeds now....
 
so where should my AMP meter needle be? what is normal?

it's amazing how much my electrical system improved....lol The windshield wipers actually seem like they have two speeds now....

What is the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running.....I meant the CURRENT BATTERY, not the old one that you had tested 6 years ago.....;)

My ammeter runs dead center until I turn something electrical on then it bounces, but seems to charge and run just fine so I just don't worry about it. I have a solid-state VR, too.:hhmm:

Ed
 
If your ammeter is pegged to the right and everything else is hunky dorry you are charging your nearly dead battery.
 

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