What PSI at what RPM 13B-T

[crushers]

ignorance at it's best...
pryo and water temp have NOTHING in common. pyro measure exhaust temp.
your pyro can climb faster than your tach.
and your pryo can read 700F and the water temp be in the red.

do a search and read up on the subject.

 

[Tapage]

this fact ( plus Wayne said ) that your engine temp never go over the bottom white mark it's not good for a diesel engine that like run a specific temp ..

Did you have t-stat and it's working properly .. if it's are your factory dash temp gauge reading properly .?

 

[danhr]

Ok, I think there isn't a t-stat. I can say this as when I start the engine when it's cold in the morning, the water can be seen circulating from thr rad cap.

Should I get a t-stat in it or leave it be without one? The fact that engine remained cool in summer gave me the advantage to turn on AC at full under 40C day time temprature for hours.

Again, How to adjust fuel on a 13B-t?

 

[Tapage]

In my books you must run a t-stat in a diesel engine ..

 

[bagh33ra]

ignorance at it's best...
pryo and water temp have NOTHING in common. pyro measure exhaust temp.

Hopefully what I'm about to say isn't ignorance at it's second best.

Most tuners I know would never run a turbo without a pyro and I've seen several folks on this forum echo that sentiment.

OP: Your settings and troubleshooting should go much easier with proper gauges. Also would be proper to ensure that your stock temp gauge and associated t-stat are working correctly.

Carry on.

 

[danhr]

I found a guy who can increase the fuel for me. I will see what needs to be adjusted and report here as this is one question asked very often.

Anyone know a good website that can ship pyro meters internationally? Good quality pyro guage (US made). Not too fancy, I prefer quality.

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

Run it WITH an OEM thermostat. the aftermarket (ie NAPA, Lordco) t-stats I have seen do not have the bypass valve included. Whithout the bypass valve, a hard climb will cause your engine to heat up more than it should and running downhill with little load will cause the temperature to drop right off the guage. My experience is with a 3B, but my FSM says it is the same thermostat.

 

[danhr]

I took the vehicle to that person to increase fuel. He did some adjustment and said that there is no room for further increase of fuel. He said that the pump plungers and nozzles need to be replaced with a new one. Sadly.

However, we did manage to increase a little bit. So what was the result?

a) Actuator pipe attached; No performance gain. I noticed a little black puff with full throttle, which was a sign that indeed fuel had been increased. 5-6PSI @ 3500rpm.

b) Actuator pipe removed (max PSI); Smoke vanished, PSI touched 20 @ 3500rpm 3rd gear.


HAHAHAHHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What POWER! It is not like what it used to be but there is a visible improvement! I LOVE IT I LOVE IT!


The person who did all this adjustment said that this is not even 50% of the power of what a factory 13B-T has. He pointed to nozzles and plungers; they need to be replaced. He said that max injection volume is too low and plungers do not have the power to inject any more.

I asked him if I need to worry about EGTs and he said that this 13B-T is still under fueled. He did however said that I need to replace the wastegate actuator as it is not functioning properly (it opens up too soon). Hence, with the existing waste gate actuator, I will get higher EGTs due to lower boost.

I will explain the fuel adjustment points in my next post.







KOOTENAY KRUZER:

Good point. But where can I find a new OEM thermostat? I can get used OEM thermostat but again the problem would be how to recognize that it is for 13B-T?

 

[danhr]

Another thing that I wanted to know is that how can I maintain 14.5 PSI? One way I know is to use a boost controller, which is just too expensive for me.

Another way is to shim the wastegate, but can that work? I mean I want it to be exactly 14.5 PSI (just under 15PSI so that red light doesn' turn on).

 

[Tapage]

Another thing that I wanted to know is that how can I maintain 14.5 PSI? One way I know is to use a boost controller, which is just too expensive for me.

Another way is to shim the wastegate, but can that work? I mean I want it to be exactly 14.5 PSI (just under 15PSI so that red light doesn' turn on).

boost contollers are around 80 bucks .. are not that expensive .. and it's the easy way to do that ..

 

[RufusTheDufus]

On my Ford 2.3l gasser turbos I used to cut the actuator shaft and thread the two halves so they could be connected with a long nut. (it acts like a turnbuckle, but I don't recall the proper fastener term) Then you can mess with the length of the actuator rod. Don't forget to leave plenty of room for jamb nuts on each end of the connector. It should cost you about $5 in parts if you already have the right size tap for the actuator rod.

With this modification you can lengthen or shorten the actuator rod with a couple wrenches which makes it easy to tune your waste gate to your liking.

 

[Dougal]

On my Ford 2.3l gasser turbos I used to cut the actuator shaft and thread the two halves so they could be connected with a long nut. (it acts like a turnbuckle, but I don't recall the proper fastener term) Then you can mess with the length of the actuator rod. Don't forget to leave plenty of room for jamb nuts on each end of the connector. It should cost you about $5 in parts if you already have the right size tap for the actuator rod.

With this modification you can lengthen or shorten the actuator rod with a couple wrenches which makes it easy to tune your waste gate to your liking.

That's my preferred method also.
It allows you to both increase or decrease boost, when increasing boost it creates more preload, preventing the wastegate from opening early.

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

Good point. But where can I find a new OEM thermostat? I can get used OEM thermostat but again the problem would be how to recognize that it is for 13B-T?

AS far as I can tell from the FSM the 13B-T uses the same thermostat as the 3B. I got my last one from Toyota but that was a long time ago.

The 13B-T and the 3B share the same block. There are slight differences to the cam shaft and the piston diameter (same cylinder diameter). The heads are different, and the 13B-T piston pins are 2mm greater diameter than the 3B.

 

[danhr]

Tapage:

What kind of boost controller is that? Got link?


RufusTheDufus:

Your trick sounds tempting. I have a spare wastegate that I can experiment with. Do you have any pic of the modified wastegate?

The method you are using has already been adopted by few of the turboed vehicles. I have seen such in Mistsubishi SUVs.

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

I was going to post a copy of the FSM page that shows the thermostat but for some reason MUD won't let me make attachments tonight.

 

[Dougal]

RufusTheDufus:

Your trick sounds tempting. I have a spare wastegate that I can experiment with. Do you have any pic of the modified wastegate?

The method you are using has already been adopted by few of the turboed vehicles. I have seen such in Mistsubishi SUVs.

Here's one of mine:
I actually welded the threaded section into this one rather than using a tube nut.

 

[Tapage]

Tapage:

What kind of boost controller is that? Got link?

eBay Motors: Hallman PRO RX MBC Manual Boost Controller in BLACK (item 170279195370 end time Nov-24-08 06:36:18 PST)

 

[mainlander]

I asked him if I need to worry about EGTs and he said that this 13B-T is still under fueled. He did however said that I need to replace the wastegate actuator as it is not functioning properly (it opens up too soon). Hence, with the existing waste gate actuator, I will get higher EGTs due to lower boost.

I have problems with statements like this. Who can tell that your rig is under fueled and no need to worry about EGT's without having a pyro? The color of the smoke (or even any visible smoke for that matter) has nothing to do with it. I have no visible smoke at all, but I sure can reach 1150*F pre-turbo on my pyro climbing a hill. If I had no pyro I bet I would have melted something by now.

You don't get higher EGT's from lower boost. You get higher EGT's with more fuel going into the chamber then out the exhaust manifold. Just think of all the 3B's out there with no turbo, you think they don't get high EGT's without having a turbo? High EGT's can come from lugging the engine, thus no boost can show in the lower RPM's but the EGT's can climb because there is more fuel introduced. Gearing(rpm), fuel, load all are intertwinded with the performance of the turbo as well as EGT's.

My numbers are well documented on my turbo install thread in my signature line. Running any higher then 14psi on a 3B is getting close to the stupid line in my books. These 4 cylinder engines just don't have the balls to act like an 8, or even a 6 for that matter, doesn't matter that you have a turbo, you still only have a certin amount of power that the motor will produce. Yes more heat (expansion of fuel at the top of the head) will give you more power but.....

I don't mean to sound harsh, really. Just be careful.

I got my pyro from Summit Racing, cheepest I found on the net. Great gauges too.

 

[danhr]

Dougal:

Nice work.

Tapage:

I am going to place an order. Can I use this controller from inside or does it has to be used under the hood?


mainlander:

My mistake. I should not have posted anything beyond my understanding. I am no mechanical engineer, I just quote what I hear with reference. You have a valid point.


Coming to pyro, I saw pyro located at turbo exhaust exit on a Nissan turbo (factory). Strange... since I heard that pyro should be located at the turbo exhaust entry. Newer vehicles have a boost controller and pyros installed by factory controlled by a on board computer.

 

[Dougal]

Dougal:

Nice work.

Thanks.

Coming to pyro, I saw pyro located at turbo exhaust exit on a Nissan turbo (factory). Strange... since I heard that pyro should be located at the turbo exhaust entry. Newer vehicles have a boost controller and pyros installed by factory controlled by a on board computer.

What was this engine and what vehicle was it in?
I haven't yet seen a factory fitted pyro (but I'm sure they exist somewhere), most electronically controlled engines calculate A/F ratio based on the MAF/MAP sensors and sometimes oxygen sensors in the exhaust like a petrol engine.
If you know those and keep the AF ratio under control then EGT's stay safe.

The reason we need pyros in our diesels is because they don't have controllers that sophisticated.

The AF values I've found for production car turbo diesels are usually leaner than 22:1. I've heard from diesel tuners who tune up to 18:1.
As you can imagine the aftermarket tune of 18:1 eats a lot into the factory safety factor.