What? No turn signals? (1 Viewer)

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myquestoyota

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Okay so I was buttoning up my electric power steering. Got the column in and put the turn signal apparatus on. Got everything plugged in and I have no turn signals. Fuses check out fine. Lights work with hazard switch. Frankly I'm not sure what to check next. I actually have a brand new oem turn signal that I put on but double checked with the old one that was working but a bit sloppy. Neither one worked

Suggestions?
 
Chase/follow +12V source from fuse box thru ignition switch to turn signal lever to lights. Alternatly, I'll give you $25 for yer 77 FJ-40.
 
Schematic says that voltage comes from hazard switch but I'll start chasing. Maybe it was the mystery wire we can't identify
green wire.jpg
 
I had a similar issue in my 76. The turn signal wiring passes through the hazard switch on these models. That's why the hazard plug has 9 contacts (4 corners x 2 + power i think). In my case the previous owner shorted out the switch and melted one of the turn wires by putting a 40a fuse on a 15a circuit, but I've also read of other folks having to unplug and clean the contacts on the hazard to get the turn signals working, even though they work when the switch is pulled.

I believe the flasher or a bad ground can be ruled out if you have functioning hazards, but there's also the rear harness frame ground near the transfer case to triple check. But if all other lights are working...both plugs in the picture above are reconnected under the dash, right?

Good luck
 
Yes, they are both connected. One is the high beam switch and it works. Thanks
 
I have a similar issue I am trying to figure out. The turn signals are coming on but aren't flashing. The hazard works and all 4 corners flash, so i assume it's not the flasher relay. Mine is a '67 but it looks like the hazard switch is wired through the signals as well. :popcorn:
 
Not sure this applies here, but it’s a great post for all FJ40 owners to read

Be aware that the flasher is a CURRENT driven device. That means that it MUST have at least 1.3 amps of current flowing through it BEFORE it will flash. What this means to the end user is that at least TWO bulbs must be lit before there is enough current to cause the flasher to flash. That is why the Hazards almost always work as it turns on all four bulbs. The turn signal only flashes two bulbs.

So...
If your battery is low (below 12.5 volts)
Your harness has bad grounds at the lights (high resistance)
Your bulb sockets are corroded (high resistance)
Your bulbs are the wrong type (not enough current flow)
Your turn signal switch is dirty (high resistance)
Your connections between any of these are dirty (high resistance)
Your flasher relay is defective (very possible if OEM) CityRacer sells an NEW OEM replacement or you can order one of my LED flasher kits (you do not have to use LED bulbs if you don't want to. It will flash normal bulbs also)
Your flasher relay works but has dirty relay contacts (high resistance)

If any, all, or some of the above apply...Your turn signals will NOT flash!

These high resistances add up quickly. If there were no resistances in the turn signal circuit you would have battery voltage (+12.7 volts) AT THE LIGHTS! The voltage readings posted above show a lot of resistance in the circuit. Just think about the path the current must take to reach the rear turn bulb. The key switch contacts, the fuse block fuse contacts, the turn/hazard switch contacts, the flasher contacts and all the bullet connectors and wire it must pass through, then finally the bulb sockets contacts, and last the ground connection. If you would clean everyone of these areas properly, you should see that voltage go up.

Another thing about voltage: Incandescent bulbs are rated at battery voltage for their rated lumen output. The lower the voltage at the bulb, the dimmer the light. A bulb rated at 13.2 volts will be how much dimmer at 10 volts? This is why the headlight relay harnesses were invented: to get the voltage at the head lights as high as possible for the brightest lights.

OEM colors for turn signals
Green = Park
Green/Orange (early) or Green/Black (later) = LEFT Turn
Green/Yellow = Right Turn
Green/Blue = Turn switch to flasher (L) to bulbs
Green/White or Green/Red Flasher (B) +12V
 
Check your grounds....especially at the front signals. I actually ran a new ground wire inside of the light loom instead of reliance on the mount of the housing grounding to my painted fender.
 
I have a similar issue I am trying to figure out. The turn signals are coming on but aren't flashing. The hazard works and all 4 corners flash, so i assume it's not the flasher relay. Mine is a '67 but it looks like the hazard switch is wired through the signals as well. :popcorn:

Not sure about '67 but other models have separate flashers for turn and hazard, so your turn flasher might be bad.
 
Not sure about '67 but other models have separate flashers for turn and hazard, so your turn flasher might be bad.

Where is the turn signal flasher relay located? My hazard relay is by the kick vent. Sorry OP, not trying to hijack this thread.

9F5A7A62-C994-4B1E-914F-55EC7E3E9280.jpeg
 
do your Wipers work? If not, then swap out the actual Dir Lt/Wiper fuse. Do not trust an LED test light or VMM and tear the whole world apart like I did. Turns out that the Fuse was not passing enough current to operate the wipers or the flasher, yet read just fine on my fluke and my "airbag safe" test light. I need to buy an old school incan equipped test light just for the 40. Holy crap, i was about as frustrated as ever!!
 
I have a 73 40 that is having the same problem. Flashers work great, nice bright park lights, no turn signals. They come on when I hit the lever, but the they stay solid-no blink.

I painted my rig and had it apart for months. Putting it back together now. All worked great when I took it apart.

I actually just replaced both my turn signals, because they were broken. So I have good bulbs clean wires, I replaced all my fuses. For testing purposes, I ran a ground wire directly from the battery to the lights-no difference. Cleaned my fuse box connections, checked the ground on the mid-frame, checked voltage at the lights---all good. What the heck is wrong?
 
Ran into a similar issue a few years back. No turn signals on my 73 40 while on a roadtrip. Like most that have posted already I could not solve the issue.
Turns out that the brass contacts on the plug to main harness was very dirty. Cleaned them and all 4 turn signal lights and dash indicators burn much brighter.
It may or may not help your situation, dumb luck was the winner for me.
 
Ran into a similar issue a few years back. No turn signals on my 73 40 while on a roadtrip. Like most that have posted already I could not solve the issue.
Turns out that the brass contacts on the plug to main harness was very dirty. Cleaned them and all 4 turn signal lights and dash indicators burn much brighter.
It may or may not help your situation, dumb luck was the winner for me.
I will clean all my connectors and see if that helps. Could have accumulated dust or paint in them while they were apart for the painting. Thanks!
 
Unfortunately cleaning the harness connectors didn't help either.
 
I haven't tried replacing the flasher. If the emergency flashers are working, doesn't that tell me the flasher is good?
 
I bought a flasher from Cruiser Corps installed it and I have turn signals now. Woo Hoo. It apparently runs on a different system than the emergency flashers because when I disconnected the turn signal flasher the emergency flashers still worked and the turn signals now flash at a much quicker rate than the emergency flashers. Two different flashers/circuits?
 
Mine turned out to be a loose wire/bad contact at the fuse block. I was messing around in there working on my electric power steering.
 

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