What Mileage/Price Equates to a Good Deal (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jpmwv
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
check out the classifieds/this forum where most recent purchase prices are posted. You'll get an idea of what fair market value is on closed transactions.
- Thread starter
- #3
Great idea! Thank you!
Pay attention to the area, unless you are willing to shop cross-country. The same vehicle might be 25k in one region and sub 20k in another.
The three main factors are:
Mileage
Age
Condition
Along with Age, the 2016+ Cruisers are still commanding a premium over the earlier models beyond just the added age of the earlier models.
With condition, #1 is rust. Far and away, heavy rust will make your life miserable if you plan to keep long term. I won't even consider a vehicle that has ever lived in a heavy snow/salt area without lots of pictures. Beware of vehicles on southern lots that seem to have recently transferred from New England or the Upper Midwest. I've seen some dealers in the South buy rusty vehicles cheap at auction and bring them south where the average buyer doesn't even know to look for rust.
The 200 has a vast range of price ranges available, from high mileage early models in the Mid Teens to like new 2021s selling for $90k+, so set your budget and buy the newest, lowest mileage you can afford, especially if you plan to keep long term.
Mileage
Age
Condition
Along with Age, the 2016+ Cruisers are still commanding a premium over the earlier models beyond just the added age of the earlier models.
With condition, #1 is rust. Far and away, heavy rust will make your life miserable if you plan to keep long term. I won't even consider a vehicle that has ever lived in a heavy snow/salt area without lots of pictures. Beware of vehicles on southern lots that seem to have recently transferred from New England or the Upper Midwest. I've seen some dealers in the South buy rusty vehicles cheap at auction and bring them south where the average buyer doesn't even know to look for rust.
The 200 has a vast range of price ranges available, from high mileage early models in the Mid Teens to like new 2021s selling for $90k+, so set your budget and buy the newest, lowest mileage you can afford, especially if you plan to keep long term.
Now that it’s the start of the 2026 model year for vehicles, used 200s are anywhere from 5 to 18 years old. So there are no formulas for pricing. That means your “good deal” is the youngest one in the best condition, with the best history, and the lowest miles that fits your budget.
This is a big dynamic right now. In NC, it seems some dealers are finding margin by buying Northeast/Midwest trucks at auction and selling them here. We may be "the south" but we're also relatively close to salted winter areas. Always get a VIN report with prior owner locations, and check for rust even at a Southern dealer.
Solid advice here. Especially for unscrupulous dealers.
2 pieces of advice:
1. Bookmark Toyota Owners Portal or Lexus' one. That allows you to check details of service history performed at the dealer. This saved me some heartache down the road for sure
2. Know your product. In the category of unscruptulous or just plain unaware Ive seen a few base LC's "reimagined" as Heritage editions. Slap on some bronze wheels, couple badges and the rack and POOF, youve bumped price thousands. One of the offenders was even at a toyota dealer who should know better.
1. Bookmark Toyota Owners Portal or Lexus' one. That allows you to check details of service history performed at the dealer. This saved me some heartache down the road for sure
2. Know your product. In the category of unscruptulous or just plain unaware Ive seen a few base LC's "reimagined" as Heritage editions. Slap on some bronze wheels, couple badges and the rack and POOF, youve bumped price thousands. One of the offenders was even at a toyota dealer who should know better.
You'll pay less for an LX570 than a comparable (year/mileage/condition) Land Cruiser. I suggest driving both, especially across eras such as before and after 2016 (major facelift and switch to the 8-speed transmission). Based on your drive of each and how you like the styling and cockpit experience of those, you can narrow your search from there. I think the pre-2016 and post-2016 is a major fork in the road, and the resale prices bear that out. Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thank you. Does the fork to the left (pre-2016) or right (post-2016) cost more?
2016 and later costs more. More recent, many view the 8-speed trans as an upgrade (though some disagree). I am planning to buy a 2016+ Cruiser in a year or two because I don't like the front end of the LX570 of that era, though I was earlier looking to buy a 2013-2015 LX570. Go to CarMax and try to drive a few, it's worth it.
I just bought an LX from a Florida Lexus dealer and had it shipped to me about 3 weeks ago. It came down to using zip codes of areas where the roads are relatively salt free on these used car buying apps to find as many examples as I could before making a decision.
I used the my Lexus website researching vins so much I had to sign up again.
if you buy out of state check their laws. Florida dealers can keep your car after full payment for an extended period of time to make sure there is no fraudulent activity.
I used the my Lexus website researching vins so much I had to sign up again.
if you buy out of state check their laws. Florida dealers can keep your car after full payment for an extended period of time to make sure there is no fraudulent activity.
If the truck is modified (e.g. LRA, lift, armor), make sure you find you who made the mods. If it's a shop in Atlanta, for example, find another truck. Also, consider having a MUDbro do a look-see on your behalf, if you're too far for a drive. This visit should be in addition to your PPI. Finally, look at some of the bit truck base-lining threads on here, which will point you towards the bits that need attention.
rex in bama
SILVER Star
If its a shop in Atl those mods might have been installed by some very capable folks. Your brush paints a bit too broadly, dude!
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
Agree! Well said Rex!
KBB is a guide, not a rule. When comparing to KBB, I've gladly overpaid and still feel like I got a great deal. Unfortunately, the opposite is also true.
Things to consider when finding the true value to YOU, not us.
1) Previous maintenance history. Was it neglected or well loved?
2) Previous usage. Was it 150k miles of highway or 75k miles of rough off roading?
3) Is it your color / year preference? Some love silver, I don't, so the value to me is lower than white or black.
4) Location and purchase process. Is it local from a reputable dealer that makes your life easier? Or 5 states away from a 2 star inner city used car lot?
With used vehicles, you need to own the vehicle for a few years before deciding how good of a deal you got. In 2018, I paid $14k for a $12k (KBB price) 130k mile 2005 LC. First significant issue came up 5 years and 80k miles later when the brake booster crapped out on me. I feel like it was a good deal overall due to it being super reliable, no rust, and an easy purchase. In early 2020, a buddy purchased a 1999 LX for $4,500 and thought he got a smoking deal. 2 years and $6k later in repair bills, his deal wasn't so great.
Things to consider when finding the true value to YOU, not us.
1) Previous maintenance history. Was it neglected or well loved?
2) Previous usage. Was it 150k miles of highway or 75k miles of rough off roading?
3) Is it your color / year preference? Some love silver, I don't, so the value to me is lower than white or black.
4) Location and purchase process. Is it local from a reputable dealer that makes your life easier? Or 5 states away from a 2 star inner city used car lot?
With used vehicles, you need to own the vehicle for a few years before deciding how good of a deal you got. In 2018, I paid $14k for a $12k (KBB price) 130k mile 2005 LC. First significant issue came up 5 years and 80k miles later when the brake booster crapped out on me. I feel like it was a good deal overall due to it being super reliable, no rust, and an easy purchase. In early 2020, a buddy purchased a 1999 LX for $4,500 and thought he got a smoking deal. 2 years and $6k later in repair bills, his deal wasn't so great.
Last edited:
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
@jlm43 very well said!! I agree with all your points!!
