Save some for the rest of us! Or maybe you’re saving us from the rest of them? I don’t know anymore...
I don’t know either anymore at this point. I finished my two and lost sense of what I was doing anymore.
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Save some for the rest of us! Or maybe you’re saving us from the rest of them? I don’t know anymore...
I don’t know either anymore at this point. I finished my two and lost sense of what I was doing anymore.
The mud community demands pics.“I don’t know every now and then I just black out, and when I come to there’s FJ40’s all over the front yard and all my money’s gone”
A good fix for that drivers side lean would be to swap the springs from one side to the the other, not a difficult surgery. Then your spare, rack and manifold can be left alone.Put the hard top back on after about 4years off and cleaned her up. Also, almost fixed the cruiser lean by taking off the spare tire and rack. Still leans about an 3/4" which I think is due to the manifolds and driver weight all being on one side.
View attachment 2523855
Curious - what will swapping the springs do?hi
A good fix for that drivers side lean would be to swap the springs from one side to the the other, not a difficult surgery. Then your spare, rack and manifold can be left alone.
It would put the 3/4" sag on the passenger side. Then when you jump in to drive it, it will level out.Curious - what will swapping the springs do?
hi
A good fix for that drivers side lean would be to swap the springs from one side to the the other, not a difficult surgery. Then your spare, rack and manifold can be left alone.
Curious - what will swapping the springs do?
Nothing, really. What does work for a SUA is a spacer on top of the PS rear spring. Toyota makes one for that reason, but a piece of plate will work just as well with a hole drilled for centering bolt. Or you could get this:
View attachment 2524278
That Spring block looks to be easier than swapping the springs.Nothing, really. What does work for a SUA is a spacer on top of the PS rear spring. Toyota makes one for that reason, but a piece of plate will work just as well with a hole drilled for centering bolt. Or you could get this:
View attachment 2524278
Good suggestion, I like it. That will definitely work and easier to install than swapping springs. Don't swap the springs, get the blocks.
The Toyota part is longer available.Good suggestion, I like it. That will definitely work and easier to install than swapping springs. Don't swap the springs, get the blocks.
That Spring block looks to be easier than swapping the springs.
Can't see why swapping the springs wouldn't help though. When installing springs, you are supposed to put the over-arched springs on the driver's side, it makes a difference in keeping the truck level.
Looks like we are getting deep into this conversation.....I did the CCOT block on the pass side and did not correct the issue so I took it out. I'm still confident that there is a weight imbalance mixed the potentially softer pro-comp springs that I'm running. The biggest change point to the good was removing the spare tire and rack.Good suggestion, I like it. That will definitely work and easier to install than swapping springs. Don't swap the springs, get the blocks.
Interesting. It worked well for me. I had OME springs at the time when I installed it. Then I went to HFS for the greater lift and moved the spacer over to them and it kept things level as well.Looks like we are getting deep into this conversation.....I did the CCOT block on the pass side and did not correct the issue so I took it out. I'm still confident that there is a weight imbalance mixed the potentially softer pro-comp springs that I'm running. The biggest change point to the good was removing the spare tire and rack.
Interesting. It worked well for me. I had OME springs at the time when I installed it. Then I went to HFS for the greater lift and moved the spacer over to them and it kept things level as well.
But you're correct, there is a weight imbalance, and it's because the designers originally installed the engine a bit to the left side (DS in the US) to offset the driver's weight in Japan (PS in the US) , and over time, the '40 will lean left.
Interesting. It worked well for me. I had OME springs at the time when I installed it. Then I went to HFS for the greater lift and moved the spacer over to them and it kept things level as well.
But you're correct, there is a weight imbalance, and it's because the designers originally installed the engine a bit to the left side (DS in the US) to offset the driver's weight in Japan (PS in the US) , and over time, the '40 will lean left.
Hmm, I heard it had to do with RHD, but I can see your point as well. Either way, the spacer pulls down the PS rear just enough to remove the lean. I figure if that's how Toyota designers dealt with the increased drivers weight on the LHD vehicles, it's good enough for me.The engine shift to the left has to do with the transfer case being offset to the right not because Japan is RHD. There isn't room to shift further to the right. The spare was always on the opposite side of the driver LHD or RHD until the ambulance doors were introduced into the US.
I would look at the stance front to back to decide how to handle it. Arching the left spring lifts the frame/body. A block at the axle lowers it.