What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (26 Viewers)

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A few months of updates to follow:

1. After 198,000 miles, finally replaced the radiator. Sucks because I had a deposit on the @turbo8 skid plates that I had to cancel to cover the cost of the new radiator. Next time...
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2. Changed my control center/navigation around up front. Added a data only SIM card to the Galaxy S10 that I leave in the rig and LeToya is now alive! Well, not actually, but kinda. I have my A7 lite pulling data from the S10. In addition, I have all of my bluetooth, wifi, and zigbee protocol network devices all tied to the S10, and I run AirMirror from my personal S22 to the S10, so assuming LeToya is in range of a cell tower, I can control and monitor every aspect of my "smart" car devices from anywhere in the world. This includes:
- ARB Linx: 21.5" light bar, 21.5" amber light bar, 50" light bar, rear light bar, compressor and rear airbags (BT)
- TigerExped Switch Panel: battery isolator, weboost, 12v fan, and my 3x rock lights (BT)
- Zigbee 3.0 Hub - temp sensor for car and one each for my cooler and freezer, shock sensor, door and window alarms, and more eventually (zigbee)
- Garmin InReach Mini 2.0 and Garmin Explore App (BT)
- Victron Smart Shunt (BT)
- Renogy DC Home App (BT)
- Stedi Rock Lights App (BT)
- and my two extra cameras (wifi)
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3. Added a 12v 27 liter electric cooler behind the arm rest and some quality stable cup holders (for those of you with kids, you understand the struggle).
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4. Made some big moves with my battery set-up. I went from a yellow top 55AH AGM starter battery and three 120 AH AGM house batteries (total of101kg) to a 120AH AGM starter battery and three Renogy 100AH LiFePO4 batteries (total of 66kg). HUGE difference in performance all around, lost 35kg's, and went from about 200AH (27+ 60 + 60 + 60) total of usable energy to 300AH (60 + 80 + 80 + 80).
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5. And my electrical cabinet is "mostly" done: Autoclima 3300 BTU air conditioner, Ective 2500 CSI 2500w @ 220v inverter with shore power battery charging, National Luna power block, TigerExped TEXU400 distribution block, my three Renogy batteries, Victron Smart Shunt, and REDARC battery isolator. I'm just waiting on my Cruiser Company Lift-up window to get here so that I can seal and then run my AC ducting through lift-up window as well as my shore power hook-up and a 12v fan. For now, I have a kit to run them through the drivers side 2nd row window.
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Who makes that cooler?
 
What about using an OEM Toyota charcoal canisted from a different model with different dimensions?

I was thinking about this. But I have no idea which other models to look at that might be compatible. If you or anyone else had a recommended model to try the canister from, I'll definitely look into it.
 
Got a couple of items installed late last week
Kings (filthy)​
Dobinsons rear springs​
Firestone Helper Bags (4164)​
Switch Pros​
Baja Designs s2 for backup lights​
ARB Compressor​
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Installed 12 gallon factory fuel subtank. Temporarily installed the charcoal canister so I can drive, but need to figure out where I'll permanently install it.

I need to mount the spare tire bracket back in, too, but I needed to order some rivnuts first.

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Are you going to do a DIY write up too? Breakdown of costs and time it took to install it? I'd love to add one of these to mine. Since Toyota didn't let us buy the 200's with the diesel motors here, it would've been nice if all our gasser 200's had come with the secondary tank...
 
Are you going to do a DIY write up too? Breakdown of costs and time it took to install it? I'd love to add one of these to mine. Since Toyota didn't let us buy the 200's with the diesel motors here, it would've been nice if all our gasser 200's had come with the secondary tank...

Yes, I'm going to do a write up! Going to wait to do that until after I relocate this charcoal canister, though.
 
Yes, I'm going to do a write up! Going to wait to do that until after I relocate this charcoal canister, though.
Is somewhere around the resonator area feasible, say after you cut off the resonator. Most accounts say it doesn’t do much anyways.
 
I was thinking about this. But I have no idea which other models to look at that might be compatible. If you or anyone else had a recommended model to try the canister from, I'll definitely look into it.
Could you run it up to the engine bay? Tons of room in there and you would have some incredible clearance in the back for a six tank that big.
 
Could you run it up to the engine bay? Tons of room in there and you would have some incredible clearance in the back for a six tank that big.
Yes, running it up to the engine bay is my backup plan if I don't figure out something else.

Is somewhere around the resonator area feasible, say after you cut off the resonator. Most accounts say it doesn’t do much anyways.
Yes, pretty sure it would fit no problem where the resonator is, but most people who delete the resonator also need to add a straight pipe out the back to replace it so heat doesn't cause a problem for everything under there (especially in this case where the cutoff pipe would be releasing its exhaust against the subtank). Maybe if I make the exhaust turn and exit sideways behind the tire? But then that would effectively reduce my clearance there behind the tire.
 
Yes, running it up to the engine bay is my backup plan if I don't figure out something else.


Yes, pretty sure it would fit no problem where the resonator is, but most people who delete the resonator also need to add a straight pipe out the back to replace it so heat doesn't cause a problem for everything under there (especially in this case where the cutoff pipe would be releasing its exhaust against the subtank). Maybe if I make the exhaust turn and exit sideways behind the tire? But then that would effectively reduce my clearance there behind the tire.
Yeah, I was definitely thinking you’d have to do a side exit.
 
Yeah, I was definitely thinking you’d have to do a side exit.

Looking into it with a cardboard mock-up. Continuing the experiment & discussion over in my build thread:

Cardboard mock-up of the charcoal canister. The extra flaps on one end show how much extra space is needed for the connections on that end.

Here are the places it definitely will not fit:

Hood won't close:
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@lx200inAR I tried your idea of putting it where the resonator is. It would totally work there, and the side-exit exhaust could turn and immediately end before the tire and work fine, giving lots of room. This is super tempting. There is a problem, though.

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The main problem with this approach is that the spare tire support bracket is in the way and would push the charcoal canister down too far. Think hitting your resonator on rocks is bad? Try hitting your canister on rocks. 😬 Still, I'm tempted to try to make it work somehow since all the connections are already back there.

This is how far the tire bracket would push down the canister (I've marked the bracket mounting holes), basically so the frame rail would no longer protect it.

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I see two possible places in the engine bay. The first is on its side in front of the power steering reservoir, which would have to be relocated backwards an inch or so (I think that's what @grinchy did). The other is on top of the main fuse box, perpendicular to it. It appears to fully clear the hood when closed.

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What about using an OEM Toyota charcoal canisted from a different model with different dimensions?

I've started checking out some other model's charcoal canisters via Google. To me, it looks like that latest gen 4runner, GX, and Venza canisters are likely the exact same physical dimensions as the LC200 (looks identical, but different part numbers). The previous gen 4runner, GX, Venza, and 100-series all seem to use an ever so slightly narrower design (maybe 7 inches wide instead of 8 inches wide?) Probably not enough to make it fit any better. All the connections appear more or less the same as on my canister.

If someone has one of these other Toyota/Lexus models (or some other Toyota model), please feel free to measure the canister for me!
 
Installed 12 gallon factory fuel subtank. Temporarily installed the charcoal canister so I can drive, but need to figure out where I'll permanently install it.

I need to mount the spare tire bracket back in, too, but I needed to order some rivnuts first.

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I could be wrong but I'm thinking it's important to have the charcoal canister mounted relatively higher than the gas tanks. Otherwise, there's likely an increased opportunity for it to get flooded mounting lower than the tanks.
 
I could be wrong but I'm thinking it's important to have the charcoal canister mounted relatively higher than the gas tanks. Otherwise, there's likely an increased opportunity for it to get flooded mounting lower than the tanks.

I believe you're right. That concern has been on my mind ever since I put it there, but I needed to put it somewhere temporarily for a few days to limit downtime. With that in mind, relocating to the engine bay might be the only place that follows that rule.
 
finally got around to installing the skids from @turbo8 they are a work of art! Also removed my ARB base
rack and installed Land Cruiser OEM rails with new bolts and gaskets.

Imo I think 200s look better with factory or no roof rails… I also did an AHC adjustment. With Techstream.


Anywhere here have Durobumps on the LX? Do the bumps make contact in N or L?

(Asking because I have the prototype ones installed and am not sure my Truck sits lower cause I physically messed with height sensor or if they are just too tall)

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