I would like to hear how you installed with out bolting from underneath and what your thoughts are on its security... I am pulling the trigger soon on the two trays.. What dual battery isolator are you going with?
About NOT bolting from under the tray:
(OK...Long explanation over a battery tray...but if you're interested...here ya go)
First... This is my doing, and not Following instructions indicating securing bolts from underneath--which would certainly add a Superman-Level of solidity. Anyone who knows Slee stuff knows he goes above and beyond in terms of strength, and this is no exception. Another awesome product!
That said, I'm not even slightly worried that it could move. I did use the bolts...but only to stop lateral movement....not to hold it down. The top bracket pressure does more than enough for that. It's still FAR more "attached" and secure than the stock tray from Toyota, which is literally a flimsy, unattached plastic rectangle without any bolts or screws.
Main reason I did it without the nuts on the back side under bolts... It's a real pain to remove the skirting that lines the wheel well without breaking the small, plastic tabs/attachments. I tried...but didn't want to end up with dangling skirt pieces (didn't have any plastic clip replacements)
Toyota's battery tray convinced me it was OK, as the Toyota stock tray is a wet noodle...
-The stock Toyota battery tray is just a thin, flimsy plastic...and there are NO screws or bolts at all!
-All the Toyota tray has to keep it in play from below is a round protrusion in the plastic bottom of the tray that's about an inch across. This protrusion simply juts downward maybe a quarter of an inch into a hole in the sheet metal below it so that it can't slide sideways. Beyond that, the ONLY thing holding the battery in place it the standard top bracket and tie-down screw.
On the Slee tray setup...the tray itself is heavy steel, and FAR more rigid/robust than stock.
-Not only is it very rigid, but the edge which holds the battery within the tray is FAR more robust.
-The Slee top bracket that holds the battery down is HUGE and locked the battery from forward or backward movement.
So here's what I did...
-I did drill the additional hole below the tray (see instructions from Slee)...before I realized what a pain it seemed to remove the skirting.
-Instead of bolting the tray, I simply inserted two of the bolts through the tray and through the holes beneath the tray. These bolts cannot come out because the battery rests directly above them.
-All the bolts need to do is prevent lateral movement like the plastic circle protrusion did on the Toyota tray...and the bolts do this far better than the plastic circle.
-Once the top bracket is tightened downward over the battery, there is absolutely no way that tray is going to move.
I pushed as HARD as I could in every direction, and it was absolutely solid as a rock.
My conclusion:
-It's FAR more solid than the tray that comes stock...even without bolting from the bottom. No comparison. Absolutely motionless.
-The tray, top plate and connectors are top notch and do not budge at all.
-When I eventually replace the bumper, or have a need to remove the wheel-well skirt...I'll attach the nuts to the tray bolts from underneath...but meanwhile...there is no way that tray or battery is going to move.
