What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (17 Viewers)

[Artie]

The five visible Festool systainers tell me this isn't your first project with wood!

Not gonna lie, I had my doubts seeing his first post with just the raw materials loaded in the rear of his LC. Now after these progress pics I’m eager to see the process all the way to the finished product and I can even admit to a slight bit of envy. Well built handmade custom pieces of almost anything really elicit my respect and fascination.

 

[Dixon Santana]

Had the pleasure of striking a bird at 70mph two weeks ago. Kind of ironic since I have a bumper to protect against animal strike. Hit the bird hard enough to destroy my passenger side headlight. I decided to replace both headlight assemblies, but switch it up some. Thanks to PartSouq, I installed non-US early 200 series headlights. The clear side marker looks much cleaner imo. There is no DOT stamp on these headlights, time will tell if I get pulled over for having these headlights.
In general, it’s plug and play. You’ll need the headlight wire harness for the non-US headlights and the turn signal bulb that corresponds with this new harness.
I listed the part numbers below for those who might want to do this. The turn signal bulb can be purchased in any US dealer, but the other parts from what I found do not exist in the US parts database.

81125-60C80 x2 Wire Harness

90981-15021 x2 Bulbs

81130-60C92

81170-60C62

 

[JohnJB]

Had the pleasure of striking a bird at 70mph two weeks ago. Kind of ironic since I have a bumper to protect against animal strike. Hit the bird hard enough to destroy my passenger side headlight. I decided to replace both headlight assemblies, but switch it up some. Thanks to PartSouq, I installed non-US early 200 series headlights. The clear side marker looks much cleaner imo. There is no DOT stamp on these headlights, time will tell if I get pulled over for having these headlights.
In general, it’s plug and play. You’ll need the headlight wire harness for the non-US headlights and the turn signal bulb that corresponds with this new harness.
I listed the part numbers below for those who might want to do this. The turn signal bulb can be purchased in any US dealer, but the other parts from what I found do not exist in the US parts database.

81125-60C80 x2 Wire Harness

90981-15021 x2 Bulbs

81130-60C92

81170-60C62

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Nice, looks great! Couple questions. Do you notice any beam pattern difference from the prior US spec lights? And were the lights easily replaceable with the bull bar still on the truck?

 

[TheComedian]

The five visible Festool systainers tell me this isn't your first project with wood!

Unfortunately, not my tools. I am on the road worldwide as a service technician so I have no tools for wood. But for wrenches, ratchets, etc. I can highly recommend Wera. Appropriate planning is everything and above all you should have the plates cut to size by a company that has a CNC-controlled circular saw.
But I have access to it whenever I want.

But let's move on to day 3 which will be the last day I can build the boxes for the next two weeks because I have knee surgery on Tuesday.
Today I built the two drawers that slide into each other and connected them with the drawers.
In addition, I have also tested whether the cooler really fits through the opening and for this also screwed the attachments to which it is lashed down.

Here again the CAD view of the box as it was already finished at the end of August. Unfortunately I could not start earlier with the construction because I was still in the States and Mexico with a few customers.

The large drawers are not yet mounted because I still have to think about the screw connection because normal wood screws in 12mm wood will not have enough grip.

 

[Dixon Santana]

Nice, looks great! Couple questions. Do you notice any beam pattern difference from the prior US spec lights? And were the lights easily replaceable with the bull bar still on the truck?

The pattern seems similar to the US spec headlights. I did notice they have less glare with LED bulbs than the original headlights. Not sure if this was because my old headlight were starting to oxidize or there is a difference internally with the new headlights. Much cleaner cut off now. It’s a tight fit, the headlight barely clear the bull bar. I covered the headlight with painters tape to prevent scratching, but it’s doable. The grille does have need to be removed to give you enough room to get the headlight out.

 

[chazzmatazz]

I didn't do anything yet, but daddy got an early Xmas gift today.
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You’re going to love it, I’m 20k miles on mine.

 

[PabloTX]

Installed the ARB dual compressor and manifold on the Slee bracket. Instructions were adequate but a little unclear. Certainly would be easier a second time around. Had to play around with the location on the bracket a bit. Furthest towards the firewall was the only way I could keep adequate clearance for removal of the fuse box cover


No power yet. May have to farm that out. Won’t be running lockers, etc so switched under the hood will be adequate. I’ll research here a little bit but if electrical gets too involved I get skittish.

 

[JLH]

Attached a Gobi ladder, took 20 mintes or so. Seems sturdy and will be a welcome, quick way to access the roof. Gobi quoted 12 to 16 weeks but it was at my door in two.

 

[TheComedian]

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Attached a Gobi ladder, took 20 mintes or so. Seems sturdy and will be a welcome, quick way to access the roof. Gobi quoted 12 to 16 weeks but it was at my door in two.

Lucky you. Unfortunately, Gobi is not able or willing to ship its parts overseas. I can order parts from the last backyard workshop in Thailand, the Congo or somewhere in Siberia without any problems but many US companies are unfortunately not even close to being able to do that.

And with the payment it gets even wilder... often they are not even able to accept normal transfers to an account.

 

[Darije]

Installed the ARB dual compressor and manifold on the Slee bracket. Instructions were adequate but a little unclear. Certainly would be easier a second time around. Had to play around with the location on the bracket a bit. Furthest towards the firewall was the only way I could keep adequate clearance for removal of the fuse box cover


No power yet. May have to farm that out. Won’t be running lockers, etc so switched under the hood will be adequate. I’ll research here a little bit but if electrical gets too involved I get skittish.

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I did mine like this. It is on rigjt side of car. I made topic about it here in forum

 

[kms254]

Replaced the two door belt liner moulding with land cruiser black. I’ll have to wrap the one on the fixed window… anyone know the part number for the remaining one?

 

[turbo8]

Got sick of the TC rear control arms, and decided to go back to stock. Knowing that the stock lower links are a little weak, I made up sum gussets\skids for the lower arms.

 

[paul r]

Got sick of the TC rear control arms, and decided to go back to stock. Knowing that the stock lower links are a little weak, I made up sum gussets\skids for the lower arms.

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TC arms make too much noise?

 

[turbo8]

TC arms make too much noise?

Yeah, too much noise along with the following:
Bushing life is very low
Bolts constantly come loose on the bushing ends
Heim joint jam nuts also come loose
more vibration felt

 

[TeCKis300]

Yeah, too much noise along with the following:
Bushing life is very low
Bolts constantly come loose on the bushing ends
Heim joint jam nuts also come loose
more vibration felt

That's too bad.

I've seen other forums where they weld angle iron to the stock arm. Preferably to the top side as that still maximizes clearance under the arm. Reinforces it enough that the arm can support the weight of the car even if jacking up by the mid point. Should make it more resistant to failure when rock crawling with minimal increase in weight.

 

[turbo8]

That's too bad.

I've seen other forums where they weld angle iron to the stock arm. Preferably to the top side as that still maximizes clearance under the arm. Reinforces it enough that the arm can support the weight of the car even if jacking up by the mid point. Should make it more resistant to failure when rock crawling with minimal increase in weight.

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I thought about welding to the links but decided against it. Welding could warp the link, melt the bushings, and\or create rust problems if done incorrectly.

I wanted a bolt on solution to prevent that. I'm fairly confident these strengthened the links up enough to be able to be jacked from the middle and they only reduced my clearance by an 1/8 of an inch.

 

[TeCKis300]

I thought about welding to the links but decided against it. Welding could warp the link, melt the bushings, and\or create rust problems if done incorrectly.

I wanted a bolt on solution to prevent that. I'm fairly confident these strengthened the links up enough to be able to be jacked from the middle and they only reduced my clearance by an 1/8 of an inch.

Your bolt on solution looks pretty trick. Have anymore detail? Surely more end user installable and others may be interested to purchase?

 

[turbo8]

Your bolt on solution looks pretty trick. Have anymore detail? Surely more end user installable and others may be interested to purchase?

I did make 5 sets of the sheet metal parts and 10 sets of the clamps. I want to make a little change to the sheet metal for more clearance of the front mount. The current sheet metal parts can be modified to the new design.

If you want a set, pm your address and I'll ship a set to you.

 

[teejnut]

I did make 5 sets of the sheet metal parts and 10 sets of the clamps. I want to make a little change to the sheet metal for more clearance of the front mount. The current sheet metal parts can be modified to the new design.

If you want a set, pm your address and I'll ship a set to you.

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I'd be interested if you're selling these.

 

[TLC2013]

@turbo8 very cool design and nice fab work. Also interested if you are selling these.