My thought process is actually do an oil filter relocation kit, most likely the oil filter being relocated up higher mounted in the engine bay for easy access.I’ve been thinking about cutting a hole in mine to install the oem access cover.
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My thought process is actually do an oil filter relocation kit, most likely the oil filter being relocated up higher mounted in the engine bay for easy access.I’ve been thinking about cutting a hole in mine to install the oem access cover.
That would be so nice! My German cars have "spoiled" me with easy access to the filters.My thought process is actually do an oil filter relocation kit, most likely the oil filter being relocated up higher mounted in the engine bay for easy access.
I’d say it’s 95% eliminated. Just the slightest going from reverse to drive.What was the outcome? Did you eliminate all clunks?
If you haven't, do the u-joints and the front diff bushing. You can save by getting Matsubas from @cruiseroutfit on the u-joints.I’d say it’s 95% eliminated. Just the slightest going from reverse to drive.
Best thing i ever installed on the LX lol. Makes draining oil so convenient. I’ll just let it drain while i tend to other things
I've tried twice now...6months apart with different fumoto drain valves but can only hand tighten it couple of turns. Whereas, I can hand tighten my OEM drain bolt all the way. Thought of taking a wrench to it but was afraid of cross threading. Do either of you remember if you had to use a wrench past a couple of turns or was it as easy to turn as the OEM bolt?Yes I have the fumoto valve, very convenient - i just extended the drip level using a hose straight to the catch jug. But I still ended up with a few a mess oil drips when I loosened the oil filter and how tight it is work around the dissent skid plate w/o removing it.
I actually did take a wrench to it to torque it down per their instructions. For me i ordered the F133N and if you want to use a torque wrench it’s shown 177 inch lb/15 ft lbI've tried twice now...6months apart with different fumoto drain valves but can only hand tighten it couple of turns. Whereas, I can hand tighten my OEM drain bolt all the way. Thought of taking a wrench to it but was afraid of cross threading. Do either of you remember if you had to use a wrench past a couple of turns or was it as easy to turn as the OEM bolt?
I intended to torque it to spec once it was hand tightened all the way up instead of just the couple of turns. I'll give it a shot again in a few months. Thanks!I actually did take a wrench to it to torque it down per their instructions.
2. Install:
- Hand tighten: Thread the valve into the oil drain port by hand, do not cross-thread.
- Fully Tighten: Tighten with a crescent wrench on the body of the valve* ⅛ to ¼ turn past hand tight, or to the value shown on the torque chart for your valve model. Do not over tighten.
- Do not use a wrench on the head of the nipple outlet if present.
- An adapter may be required if the valve cannot be completely tightened due to contact with the oil pan.
IIRC mine turned more than a couple turns. Although it’s been awhile since I installed itI intended to torque it to spec once it was hand tightened all the way up instead of just the couple of turns. I'll give it a shot again in a few months. Thanks!
Suspension refresh & clunk elimination:
Dobinson uppers CAs
OEM lower CAs
CV Axles (axle flanges as well)
Both diff support assemblies (and bushings)
Diff mount assembly
Dobinson TBs
Dobinson upper & lower TAs