What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (27 Viewers)

[ODSTbee]

Finally put together all the pieces for upgrading from 32's to 34's with new wheels.
2005 with AHC and 120k miles i'm looking to push the rig to its limit but want to keep it comfortable on-road for daily driving, and AHC is the perfect tool to make that possible. Can re-tune pressures for driving experience.
I wanted a little more ground clearance than 33's, without stepping up to 35's and into serious rubbing issues, as well as re-gear issues.

Guys running AHC and bigger tires were all running a body lift, but the consensus for 35's seemed to be 1/2"-3/4" was all that is absolutely necessary, so i figured I'd be more than safe running a 1/2" body lift with 34's, and didn't need to worry about fixing bumper stretch.
Trail Tailor body lift, I was able to re-use some bolts, and in hindsight i would just order my own hardware and cut my own pucks, But i got a good feel for everything and measurements so putting in a bigger body lift in the future will be a piece of cake.
The factory body bolts have the nice lock washer, the lock washer is just pressed on the top of the bolt, i was able to knock it off and tack weld it to the new bolts, worked perfectly.

Looked through a lot of tire options between 17's and 18's. Ultimately wanted C loads, which are only available with a 17 inch wheel. Choice was pretty easy with the Falken Wildpeak AT4's having a 3 ply sidewall like an E load but the softer road feel of the C load. An added upside to the falkens is the increased diameter, they come in at 34.1" at 285/75/17 (33.8"), but on the flipside, they weight in at 68lbs per wheel, more than the E load tire, which doesn't make much sense to me, and they are more expensive than the E load as well. For comparison the same size toyo ATIII C load is 33.86" and weighs 60lbs. 2 ply c load sidewall though.

Went with Icon Rebound Pro's for wheels, i spent a lot of time looking for options with the correct offset. Lots of options but i wanted an optimal +25mm offset, and did not want black wheels on my white cruiser, which really limited my options. Nomad has white convoys, but white on white felt goofy and white gets filthy quickly, that left bronze Method 305's or Icon Rebound pro's, 305's have no bead retention tech while the rebounds have the interlock technology and on memorial day they went on sale so i pulled the trigger. America's Tire mounted the tires, but i applied vaseline and anti-sieze to the interlock bolts, installed them, and torqued them down myself, they just mounted and installed, said it was the only beadlock they would do, if i did the work.

Truck is fine in low, would rub if you drove it in low but it clears everything parked. Closest point is the lower front bumper edge.
Those Icon wheels come in at 32lbs each compared to 26lbs on the Nomads. That gives me 32lbs +68lbs = 100lbs per tire, ~ 100lbs more unsprung weight. Truck stops a bit slower
Closest potential rub spot is the stock front fender. I may need to trim the lower edge as it's very close.
Left the running boards on to see if they would clear, they do! They will come off before wheeling this weekend.
Pinch weld modified as well for this.

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Just to clarify, just modified pinch welds and a 1/2" BL? This sounds like a route I may want to go, but I'm still too hesistant to increase wheel+tire weight with the 100 being my daily. Plus I'm spending my budget on 'baselining' items for now.

Bronze was a good choice, anything except black wheels on white in my opinion. I'd love to get a silver set of wheels, but I don't think I've found any cool ones in the +25 range.

And the c load versus e... Is your goal with choosing c over e to get a softer sidewall and more comfortable ride? I'm not well-versed in tires.

 

[100d ua]

Reached a personal record today with MPG since getting the 33s and losing some miles. Did a trip this past weekend to central Oregon, this includes a lot of hills and mountains if you’re familiar with the region, loaded with gear and occasionally using A/C. 320 miles on the tank (14.67 mpg) and I could have probably pushed it a bit more but I wanted to stop at the cheaper gas station nearby. I’m convinced my MPGs have increased ever since I did my timing belt. New thermostat, ac bracket and fan clutch was included in the service. Historically on past road trips I was lucky to hit 280 miles before I needed to stop for gas.
2000 LC with the 4 speed.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Ditched the amazon cast iron and had a local guy custom fabricate me a steel 2” hitch receiver. I had him copy exactly the dimensions as they were perfect for my intended use.

 

[LCT]

Ditched the amazon cast iron and had a local guy custom fabricate me a steel 2” hitch receiver. I had him copy exactly the dimensions as they were perfect for my intended use.View attachment 3932023

What did he charge and where did you find that Lexus cap? I have an OEM hitch receiver and has been installed for only 2 months but I see surface rust from just being exposed to air. Maybe it's made of cast iron, which is more prone to rusting when compared to steel.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

What did he charge and where did you find that Lexus cap? I have an OEM hitch receiver and has been installed for only 2 months but I see surface rust from just being exposed to air. Maybe it's made of cast iron, which is more prone to rusting when compared to steel.

Do you have the OEM hitch receiver bolted under the frame? My guy charged $250 for it and the rubber cap is easily accessible in amazon/eBay for cheap. Cast iron is good for compressive strength but steel has significant higher tensile strength allowing it to bend without breaking. I wanted to have peace of mind transporting our bikes and occasional 3-4k lbs. trailer pulls.
An example of cast iron shear failure:

 

[Medrybstrange]

Just to clarify, just modified pinch welds and a 1/2" BL? This sounds like a route I may want to go, but I'm still too hesistant to increase wheel+tire weight with the 100 being my daily. Plus I'm spending my budget on 'baselining' items for now.

Bronze was a good choice, anything except black wheels on white in my opinion. I'd love to get a silver set of wheels, but I don't think I've found any cool ones in the +25 range.

And the c load versus e... Is your goal with choosing c over e to get a softer sidewall and more comfortable ride? I'm not well-versed in tires.

Yes, Just hammered the pinch welds, 1/2 BL and small AHC lift. I also melted the crap out of the washer bottle cover and pushed it back, and may need to modify it further to account for suspension flex, but i had no rubbing on it on the street. Going to flex it up this weekend and figure out if anything rubs, the tops of my fender wells are my only concern, maybe stock bumper lower corner but it can be trimmed.

Yes C load was because i daily drive and really want to try and keep the LX470 luxury ride quality. The Wildpeaks in particular are the only C load tire that has a 3 ply sidewall, like an E load tire, giving you the sidewall security closer to an E load without the extra hardness and road noise.
You actually got me thinking again about what the exact difference between C and E are aside from the sidewall thickness. My (possibly wrong) understanding was the E load also had a stiffer rubber composition making it louder.
I was really overthinking the extra 25lbs of unsprung weight per wheel and debated getting a lighter tire and wheel combo. In the end i don't notice it enough to say it was worth worrying about, the truck stops a little heavier but with the 5 speed drives pretty much the same around town.

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

"Upgraded" to a m12000 that i rebuild and added a 6hp motor to. Front end proceed to sag 1".
You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about

 

[FZJ105]

Replacing the no name radiator from 2017 that came with this car, showing some signs of seepage

New genuine top and bottom hose and Toyota coolant too

The dealership actually had a good price on this one, $650aud or $420usd

 

[Pulgasari]

CruiserDM cupholder

Xprite LED foglights + ARB LED turn signals

 

[bpalmer7440]

I would like a cup holder! Where did you get that?

 

[kbfj621989]

Rattle can refresh if the body moldings.

I tried to add the light gray contrast but ended up doing single color.

Before and after.

 

[OGBeno]

Plastic gets old. Keep an eye on your plastic or it will do serious damage…. These are old fücking trucks….

 

[jpneely]

I would like a cup holder! Where did you get that?

100 Series LC/LX Cup Holders

Fits 100 Series Toyota Land Cruisers and Lexus LX470 (1998 - 2007) We stand behind all of our parts, and have built them to last as long as your land cruiser. Guaranteed. All of our cupholders are built using Stainless Steel Screws and a long lasting temperature resistant plastic vs the glued...

cruiserdm.com

He does a few good designs for us. The cupholders are my favorite thing so far.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Got Phil’s mudflap eliminators this afternoon and installed them right away.
Next to the old one I made 5 years ago before I learned there was solution for the rear mud flaps.

 

[David310]

New intermediate shaft with bolts. Noticed the ujoints were extra floppy when replacing steering rack last week. I highly recommend replacing while you’re in there.

Also installed Plaidwagon windshield washer bottle.