Did you get hit with import taxes by chance? My last order this month got hit with a 23% ish import duty on top of everything else once it hit stateside. Really ate into my savings.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (26 Viewers)
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Guess they just liked me lol. Or maybe a DHL shipping thing. Or a well put together scam. Who knows.No, extra taxes or tariffs.
Oh . That sucks. I used DHlL as well.
Probably a “de minimis” thing. If imports are under a certain dollar threshold ($800 generally but this depends on country of origin and type of good), they don’t get hit with import fees.
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Landman2000
SILVER Star
Got my WKOR sliders finally installed after letting the Raptor Liner dry for 3 days. Very impressed by these.
Could make sense. Mine came out to a little over $1100.
LSUfj
SILVER Star
Are these the flat version or tilted up a bit? How’s the step functionality? Looks great.
Waiting for mine to come back from powder coating.
Landman2000
SILVER Star
These are angled up 15 degrees. Step functionality is great. One of the main reasons I got them.
New OEM 3rd brake light (not cheap, even with 25% off sale). The old foam gasket deteriorated and started leaking water in the rear hatch area.
Anyone interested in buying my old 3rd brake light (no cracks, came off a 05 LC) DM me.
Anyone interested in buying my old 3rd brake light (no cracks, came off a 05 LC) DM me.
I had this happen too, I think if you keep the order below the $800 de minimis exception, it will not be tariffed.
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Bent the inner tie rod this weekend. Can anyone see why this would have happened? Thankfully my friend caught video of it happening. My guess is coming off that rock my weight was too much and the rod bent upon drooping? Super impressed that it just bent and then drove the rest of the trail and home 3+ hours with just a weirdly positioned steering wheel.
This is really interesting. My '02 has this 'buzzing' noise (not sure what else to call it), periodically while driving, and every time at start up. It sounds like it's coming from the master cylinder area mounted to the driver's (left) side firewall. It buzzes for like 5-10s or so every time I start, and periodically when I apply the brakes. I have 210k on the truck.
When asked, the guy I bought it from (1.5 years ago) said 'yeah, about a decade ago I asked my mechanic about it' - and decided not to do anything. I've been holding off on a full replacement of the master cylinder since it's like $4k, but your post and the OP that replaced that motor makes me wonder if maybe replacing the motor will help? Do you have any thoughts on this? It's a CA truck for it's whole life, so no rust, and I'd hate to spend that kind of money if a $75 part could fix the noise (I don't even know if the noise is 'bad' or normal).
Replaced all brake lines and hoses as well as all pads, rotors and 2 calipers. Finally pulled running boards, looks like I have a 3' lift . Next is the OS grille badge modification. Just got to figure out which one which grille material to use.
. Next is the OS grille badge modification. Just got to figure out which one which grille material to use.
You have the exact symptom as @jbyrd78 had, that buzzing sound is from the pump. The pump triggers to make up for when the pressure inside is below what’s preset in the ABS control module. The pump has a diaphragm inside that holds the pressure, and if that diaphragm inside has stretched, or about to rupture, or has ruptured it triggers again to create that desired pressure. So for $75 to likely solve your abs buzzing sound vs $4k+ I think its well worth the shot.
Finally put together all the pieces for upgrading from 32's to 34's with new wheels.
2005 with AHC and 120k miles i'm looking to push the rig to its limit but want to keep it comfortable on-road for daily driving, and AHC is the perfect tool to make that possible. Can re-tune pressures for driving experience.
I wanted a little more ground clearance than 33's, without stepping up to 35's and into serious rubbing issues, as well as re-gear issues.
Guys running AHC and bigger tires were all running a body lift, but the consensus for 35's seemed to be 1/2"-3/4" was all that is absolutely necessary, so i figured I'd be more than safe running a 1/2" body lift with 34's, and didn't need to worry about fixing bumper stretch.
Trail Tailor body lift, I was able to re-use some bolts, and in hindsight i would just order my own hardware and cut my own pucks, But i got a good feel for everything and measurements so putting in a bigger body lift in the future will be a piece of cake.
The factory body bolts have the nice lock washer, the lock washer is just pressed on the top of the bolt, i was able to knock it off and tack weld it to the new bolts, worked perfectly.
Looked through a lot of tire options between 17's and 18's. Ultimately wanted C loads, which are only available with a 17 inch wheel. Choice was pretty easy with the Falken Wildpeak AT4's having a 3 ply sidewall like an E load but the softer road feel of the C load. An added upside to the falkens is the increased diameter, they come in at 34.1" at 285/75/17 (33.8"), but on the flipside, they weight in at 68lbs per wheel, more than the E load tire, which doesn't make much sense to me, and they are more expensive than the E load as well. For comparison the same size toyo ATIII C load is 33.86" and weighs 60lbs. 2 ply c load sidewall though.
Went with Icon Rebound Pro's for wheels, i spent a lot of time looking for options with the correct offset. Lots of options but i wanted an optimal +25mm offset, and did not want black wheels on my white cruiser, which really limited my options. Nomad has white convoys, but white on white felt goofy and white gets filthy quickly, that left bronze Method 305's or Icon Rebound pro's, 305's have no bead retention tech while the rebounds have the interlock technology and on memorial day they went on sale so i pulled the trigger. America's Tire mounted the tires, but i applied vaseline and anti-sieze to the interlock bolts, installed them, and torqued them down myself, they just mounted and installed, said it was the only beadlock they would do, if i did the work.
Truck is fine in low, would rub if you drove it in low but it clears everything parked. Closest point is the lower front bumper edge.
Those Icon wheels come in at 32lbs each compared to 26lbs on the Nomads. That gives me 32lbs +68lbs = 100lbs per tire, ~ 100lbs more unsprung weight. Truck stops a bit slower
Closest potential rub spot is the stock front fender. I may need to trim the lower edge as it's very close.
Left the running boards on to see if they would clear, they do! They will come off before wheeling this weekend.
Pinch weld modified as well for this.
2005 with AHC and 120k miles i'm looking to push the rig to its limit but want to keep it comfortable on-road for daily driving, and AHC is the perfect tool to make that possible. Can re-tune pressures for driving experience.
I wanted a little more ground clearance than 33's, without stepping up to 35's and into serious rubbing issues, as well as re-gear issues.
Guys running AHC and bigger tires were all running a body lift, but the consensus for 35's seemed to be 1/2"-3/4" was all that is absolutely necessary, so i figured I'd be more than safe running a 1/2" body lift with 34's, and didn't need to worry about fixing bumper stretch.
Trail Tailor body lift, I was able to re-use some bolts, and in hindsight i would just order my own hardware and cut my own pucks, But i got a good feel for everything and measurements so putting in a bigger body lift in the future will be a piece of cake.
The factory body bolts have the nice lock washer, the lock washer is just pressed on the top of the bolt, i was able to knock it off and tack weld it to the new bolts, worked perfectly.
Looked through a lot of tire options between 17's and 18's. Ultimately wanted C loads, which are only available with a 17 inch wheel. Choice was pretty easy with the Falken Wildpeak AT4's having a 3 ply sidewall like an E load but the softer road feel of the C load. An added upside to the falkens is the increased diameter, they come in at 34.1" at 285/75/17 (33.8"), but on the flipside, they weight in at 68lbs per wheel, more than the E load tire, which doesn't make much sense to me, and they are more expensive than the E load as well. For comparison the same size toyo ATIII C load is 33.86" and weighs 60lbs. 2 ply c load sidewall though.
Went with Icon Rebound Pro's for wheels, i spent a lot of time looking for options with the correct offset. Lots of options but i wanted an optimal +25mm offset, and did not want black wheels on my white cruiser, which really limited my options. Nomad has white convoys, but white on white felt goofy and white gets filthy quickly, that left bronze Method 305's or Icon Rebound pro's, 305's have no bead retention tech while the rebounds have the interlock technology and on memorial day they went on sale so i pulled the trigger. America's Tire mounted the tires, but i applied vaseline and anti-sieze to the interlock bolts, installed them, and torqued them down myself, they just mounted and installed, said it was the only beadlock they would do, if i did the work.
Truck is fine in low, would rub if you drove it in low but it clears everything parked. Closest point is the lower front bumper edge.
Those Icon wheels come in at 32lbs each compared to 26lbs on the Nomads. That gives me 32lbs +68lbs = 100lbs per tire, ~ 100lbs more unsprung weight. Truck stops a bit slower
Closest potential rub spot is the stock front fender. I may need to trim the lower edge as it's very close.
Left the running boards on to see if they would clear, they do! They will come off before wheeling this weekend.
Pinch weld modified as well for this.
