What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (37 Viewers)

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Had to remove the fairing and strip it because screwed up and didn’t prep it correctly so of it went sanded it down perimeter primered and coated. Looks so much better than the initial spray. Oh and had to stick the mud sticker on 😀

Edit: added more close up photos

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Scored a full set of 285/75R16 KO2's today for just shy of $1,000. This has been by far the cheapest I could find these at $250 a tire vs $305. Wont be installing them just yet, I still have maybe one more year on my current setup.
 
Nothing to show but....paid my local LC specialist to fix coolant bypass pipe leak with new part as well as intake cleaning to fix rumbling when idle dropped under 600. Idle is dead set at 665ish now with no more toggling between 650 to 500 every 5 seconds or so.

I had tried to fix the low idle with tb clean, maf clean, and pcv valve change but the intake removal/clean fixed it. I suppose it could have been a leak on the intake gasket too. Anyways, all smooth as butter now at idle stops.
 
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My 99 is getting ready for some much needed maintenance. DBA front rotors, Centric rear rotors, DBA pads front and back, bleed the brake system, Slee Brake lines, Timken front wheel bearings, and pricey Toyota CV axles.
 
Loaf said:
View attachment 3168650
My 99 is getting ready for some much needed maintenance. DBA front rotors, Centric rear rotors, DBA pads front and back, bleed the brake system, Slee Brake lines, Timken front wheel bearings, and pricey Toyota CV axles.
Click to expand...
I might be interested in buying you old CVs if they are of OEM variety. Please PM.
 
I have owned my 2000 LC for about 3 days, so the first item on the agenda was to replace the heater tee's. I have a very extensive maintenance history back to 2003, but I had no record of the tee's being changed. Luckily the previous owner already had the parts, so I decided to tackle it this morning. Took about 45 minutes, and if I didn't have the clamp tool it would have taken much longer - it's a life saver. Anyway, the rig has 214,600 miles on it, and judging by the condition of the old tee's, I'm assuming they've been changed at some point. One was completely fine, no deterioration. The other had one end of the tee deteriorated and upon removing, left a small piece in the hose which I fished out with no issues.
Tee1.jpeg

tee2.jpeg

tee3.jpeg
 
jackhossross said:
Finished my Dissent Front and Rear Install and had the ADGU Cutting Board and custom wing installed into my '98.

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Just out of curiosity did you use a wiring harness from Stedi for the lights? I would like to use one of their harnesses but dont want to have the lights connected to high beams and not sure what to order. Just want them on a switch on the dash.
 
ScotyDosentKnow said:
Just out of curiosity did you use a wiring harness from Stedi for the lights? I would like to use one of their harnesses but dont want to have the lights connected to high beams and not sure what to order. Just want them on a switch on the dash.
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I used the standard Stedi wiring harness for the lights. Connected mine to my high beams and have a switch on the dash, so I can run it both ways.
 
ClassyJalopy said:
I might be interested in buying you old CVs if they are of OEM variety. Please PM.
Click to expand...
They will be OEM as far as I know BUT I can let you know for certain once they are in hand.
 
Picked up these OMAC floor mats to replace the tired OEM all-weathers. Fit is decent and there’s complete coverage for the front and 2nd row…still have to heat up some areas that haven’t flattened out. Verdict is still out whether or not they’re worth buying. I’ll see how they hold up during the winter. Still have the OEMs in case these start curling up.
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2020 Rocks said:
Fuel tank in place, pro tip for those that struggle with replacing fuel tank straps in the future, use a 50mm bolt, slightly longer than stock but not too long that you have to put the stock one back in place after snugging straps up. 50mm bolt is perfect solution when bolting up the straps.

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Bled the front and rear brakes after the brake line repair, just need to install the rear seats this evening yet.
 
saucebox said:
Love it, but flip the tires. Whites out is for AARP members :flipoff2:
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HA.

Don’t judge a book in the making, especially by it’s cover!

Had them flipped on my stock 100 wheels, and on my 62 steelies, and on my wife’s GX…
Decided to embrace nostalgia - letters out.

Still have a few things to do, and some paint to match… in due time.

I might be an old soul, but at least I’m a classic.
 
96redformula said:
Nothing to show but....paid my local LC specialist to fix coolant bypass pipe leak with new part as well as intake cleaning to fix rumbling when idle dropped under 600. Idle is dead set at 665ish now with no more toggling between 650 to 500 every 5 seconds or so.

I had tried to fix the low idle with tb clean, maf clean, and pcv valve change but the intake removal/clean fixed it. I suppose it could have been a leak on the intake gasket too. Anyways, all smooth as butter now at idle stops.
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate on the 'intake cleaning'? What exactly was done? The idle drone has always been a big problem with 100s and I've got it on my current one. Very curious to know the exact 'cure' !
 
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