What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (61 Viewers)

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AND................... The 100 series SAS kit is born..

This set up is going in my ELE rig for a final test fit. 4" Trail Tailor TourFlex tapered wire coils, 9 stage adjustable EXTENDED 45mm bore Tough Dog foamcells, XHD steering stabilizer, 105 5 lug Toyota hubs (NO WHEEL ADAPTERS HERE), Aisin freewheel hubs, Nitro/RCV axles, 105 rotors, 100 ceramic coat calipers and Akebono ceramic pads, 80 radius arms and bushes, 4:88s, ARB air locker, 80 box, custom steering shaft and joints and the new Trail Tailor bracket kit with frame strengthening plates and steering box sleeves.

J

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What's the plan to compensate for the lost width when moving to the 80 series front axle?

Correct me if I'm wrong here:

Stock 105 = narrower front and rear axle widths than a 100. Different offset wheels are used to maintain same (roughly) overall width as the 100.


So the kit uses a 80/105 front axle (narrow) intended to be paired with the stock 100 rear axle (wider) - doesn't that mean front wheel spacers will still be needed?
 
Make that three ignition coils to order. Turned out to be an expensive spark plug change.

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What's the plan to compensate for the lost width when moving to the 80 series front axle?

Correct me if I'm wrong here:

Stock 105 = narrower front and rear axle widths than a 100. Different offset wheels are used to maintain same (roughly) overall width as the 100.


So the kit uses a 80/105 front axle (narrow) intended to be paired with the stock 100 rear axle (wider) - doesn't that mean front wheel spacers will still be needed?

Spacers might be needed for some but I'm using offset Method wheels. Everyone I have seen that has done a swap with an 80 axle is doing this with a combination of wheel adapters and spacers to get the front width correct and anyone that has ever run a wheel adapter knows they are weak and trash.

I will NOT be running a spacer on my rig.

Also this is the "economy kit" . I have made a custom housing with 80 balls and a Tru Hi9 center that will be introduced in the next couple weeks that will allow for stock backspaced wheels.

J
 
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Spacers might be needed for some but I'm using offset Method wheels. Everyone I have seen that has done a swap with an 80 axle is doing this with a combination of wheel adapters and spacers to get the front width correct and anyone that has ever run a wheel adapter knows they are weak and trash.

I will NOT be running a spacer on my rig.

J
So the rear track width will be wider than the front?
 
Since the Covid lockdown kicked in, I've been working on a fridge and drawer slide for the 100. I've had a drawer system before, in my 80. I knew what I liked about it and what I didn't like about it. I'm pretty happy with this one, I think. I had a Dissent rear bumper with swingout on the last truck, so easy access required keeping it in the second row. No swingout on this truck, so I moved it to the rear. I only wanted one drawer at least 8 inches deep and a fridge on a slide so we could reach in with the tailgate down. The fridge slide is on a 28 inch locking slider and the drawer is on a 36 inch locking slider. All are heavyweight slides. Drawers and carcass are made from 1/2 inch baltic birch. Drawer bottom is 3/8 inch plywood, and fridge slider top is doubled 3/8 inch plywood. Most joints are blind rabbets, which took some learning on my part. All slides are attached with 1/4 inch tee nuts. I didn't think wood screws would be strong enough. I can install/remove it in approximately 15 minutes or so. Total weight is 93 pounds (without the fridge and cargo deck). Fridge is secured with L-track. I'll be adding 1/4 inch ply dividers to the drawer and a handle. I'll have to wait until it cools off to seal it. Haven't decided on polyurethane or the gallon can of black monstaliner I've been holding onto for over a year.

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My front will be approx 3/8-1/2" wider on my set up than the rear.
How much narrower will the front be with a stock 80 series axle and the 105 hubs as pictured in your kit photos?
 
Greased some zerks since the 2000+k road trip.

Installed a new fuel filter, took all of 10 minutes, 157kish, easiest fuel filter i have ever done since it was in the engine bay.
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Stock 55w left fog blub - led right 6k
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Switchback with stock low beam
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Installed some cheap Amazon switchback led fogs. 1900 lumens in white 6k then 3k amber prob 1000-900 lumens with the wattage change. Next up low beams, leaning towards HIDs in the stock housing, i need to see these stock lenses in action before i scrap them
 
  • Finished baselining my LX470
  • Transfer case oil refresh
  • Front differential oil refresh
  • And that's it! Now just preventative maintenance and small optional improvements in my future (like a nice bright LED upgrade....)
 
I have a cut boot on a one year old oem CV axle. The original clamps were leaking so I replaced with McMaster-Carr rolled edge clamps a couple of months ago. The boot is cut right at the clamp. This morning I swapped in a spare aftermarket axle I have until I can get around to rebooting the oem axle, probably this winter when it's cooler here in northern California. I'll probably do a bearing service then too.

Chris

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FYI, When you install those clamps make sure you orient the clamp with the protrusion next to the screw AWAY from the boot otherwise it can dig into the rubber as the axle rotates. Might have been the cause of the boot tearing here.
 
FYI, When you install those clamps make sure you orient the clamp with the protrusion next to the screw AWAY from the boot otherwise it can dig into the rubber as the axle rotates. Might have been the cause of the boot tearing here.

As someone who is looking to add these clamps soon, this is great advice that I'm glad I came across.
 
I reversed a clamp on the other CV this morning. Thanks for the advice.
 
Finally got a round tuit to do this one.


(Gnar oil stain courtesy of my other car with half the miles, just about to go in the shop for it. Lexus is tight as a drum.)
 

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