3rd time in 5 years is what nightmares are built of! Did you use OEM or aftermarket CVs?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (10 Viewers)
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Out of the frying pan, so to speak. I broke off two wheel studs pulling the rear wheels. My impact wrench could not remove them (supposed to be 600ft lbs). Twisted off w/ the big wratchet. Meanwhile, when twisting the driveshaft by hand, i did hit a spot where it did not want to turn. I took pics showing the cv axle tips outboard; inboard; do not appear worn, and spring clamps are identically shaped. And the latest development...
OEM, but I think it's pretty much at it's limit, and I tend to push the truck a little bit.
Not sure if the first set I replaced were original or not.
I'm really hoping to get away with the clamps. I just put new tires and half way done with new brakes. These trucks eat CV's and steering racks like they are going out of style.
These trucks were not engineered for the additional weight of armored bumpers fron and rear, bigger tires, sliders, roof racks, fridges etc. Adding an additional thousand pounds plus is bound to wear some stuff out.
Do you have a diff drop?
Some light reading on tires, you may or may not find useful
Has me questioning the added 33" Load E tires been running for a year, and finally developed a CV Boot leak. Maybe next time I go with 32" D rated tires as a trade off I don't do hardcore trails anyways, i just like scenic backroads to take the fam and explore.
I just put new clamps on both sides today. Grease was good in one and the other poured out milk so I cleaned and repacked it. Hopefully I got to it before it was damaged.
266k on radiator turning brown with pinhole leaks on top. Replaced with full aluminum radiator from Amazon and going with dual electric fan setup from Derale to see if can increase power and mpg. Had to mount fan assembly to radiator (made alum brackets, tapped the radiator)
Went with variable fan controller and thermocouple from flex-a-lite. Alum anodized hose connector with tapped hole for thermocouple from Amazon. Had to relocate overflow tank to in front of radiator until I get another one to fit inside engine bay.
Went with variable fan controller and thermocouple from flex-a-lite. Alum anodized hose connector with tapped hole for thermocouple from Amazon. Had to relocate overflow tank to in front of radiator until I get another one to fit inside engine bay.
Mauser
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After a lot of hammering, welding, pulling, twisting, and cussing I got my truck back on the road. Ended up replacing the headlight, a ball joint and the radiator, but still need a fender and some trim. I will do better to watch for rocks from now on.
Couldn’t agree more. The cost to pay is steering racks And cv’s. But there ain’t a lot of vehicles out there I’d trade this for.
I was smart enough to get it early on in the process.
I am Not one of those that rotate all 5 tires. These things weigh nearly 100lbs each. My spare had a brand new tire still.
Finally got around to do my outer tie rod ends and a new boot on one side. The inners were still ok, so I kept them on.
Well, after replacing my rear control arms and all the other bits, my U-joints (of course) decide to give up the ghost. Guess I'm replacing those now 
Both front and rear shafts? What symptoms did you have? Here's the part numbers and prices at my local Toyota dealership:Well, after replacing my rear control arms and all the other bits, my U-joints (of course) decide to give up the ghost. Guess I'm replacing those now
Front: 37140-60370 $259
Rear: 37110-6A610 $346
Just the rear 2 u-joints. Front check out fine. Symptoms? Rapidly increasing vibrations. Started on Saturday as a slight "hum" when on the gas between 30-45mph and got progressively worse over the past 3 days to the point the dash shakes from the vibrations when accelerating at anything above 10mph. Checked them last night and they are definitely shot....lots of play in the tail shaft. Picked up the u-joints yesterday evening.
Well, decided to "trade" in my u-joints and pick up a entire new tail shaft. There was a lot of play in the slip yoke. Figure it put in 21 years of solid use. Might as well replace it. Easier to put on the new tail shaft vs installing both u joints
I was surprised by the amount of play in the slip joint of the rear shaft I replaced at 310k. I was also surprised how thin the black paint was on the replacement Toyota shaft.Well, decided to "trade" in my u-joints and pick up a entire new tail shaft. There was a lot of play in the slip yoke. Figure it put in 21 years of solid use. Might as well replace it. Easier to put on the new tail shaft vs installing both u joints
Have been told that the new tail shaft has bigger/stronger u-joints. Not sure the veracity of that claim. Going to replace the front shaft as soon I get play in those u-joints.
3 Volumes of bathroom reading material
I can’t poop when aroused but to each their own. (Mods: my bad)
