Msg me now. I delete some.
Good to hear! I'm very excited about the Icons this month. Also, I LOVE YOUR RIG. haha.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (82 Viewers)
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Msg me now. I delete some.
Good to hear! I'm very excited about the Icons this month. Also, I LOVE YOUR RIG. haha.
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Glad to hear you are enjoying Stage 1s. Did you have them built to your rigs spec or do they come 1 way? I have a relitively light rig at the moment, will be adding a winch and bumper soon though. I like to bomb down trails faster than I should.....
If you are wondering what the size is (or zoom isn't working): Falken Wildpeak AT3W LT285/75R16 load range E
The stock rims really need to restored or replaced. If this was your rig, what would you do? If replacing, what wheel/rim model? Thanks!
I knocked out my heater tees last weekend, which isn't really a big deal, but thanks to the members of this forum I was able to find the part numbers and several discussions on what to expect. As usual the tee on the hot side crumbled when I removed the hoses.
The factory tees lasted 207000 miles in my '99 LX.
As you can see I went with the metal tees, which as mentioned in previous discussions isn't really necessary but that's the route I took.
The factory tees lasted 207000 miles in my '99 LX.
As you can see I went with the metal tees, which as mentioned in previous discussions isn't really necessary but that's the route I took.
They just come with one valve setting. It's apparently equivalent to a 4 on the 1-10 scale of the adjustable Stage 3 or 4, with 10 being the stiffest. It feels great when I'm alone on a day trip with minimal gear. I've kept it as lightweight as possible while still having front and rear bumper, winch, and sliders (no roof rack, RTT, drawers, fridge etc.) However when I'm loaded up with a passenger and 4-500 lbs of gear plus 15 gallons of fuel and water on the back, it bottomed out pretty easily. Those are the times when I wish I could dial up the stiffness.
The other big plus of stage 3 or 4 of course is the external bypass reservoir, but the stage 1s have never overheated to the point where I have felt the need for bypass shocks. They're pretty solid.
It's a baby!
@spaber05
It really wasn't too difficult. I pressure washed the undercarriage the best I could a few days before it started to clean the dirt and crud off. The first day took about 5 hours between cleaning with a wire wheel/brush and spraying. I did my best to knock away and flaking rust and debris then sprayed the rust reformer. It turns the surface you spray flat black. The manufacturer recommends allowing 24 hours to dry before spraying a top coat. Due to my work schedule, it ended up being 5 days for me. I did one coat of rust reformer and one coat of Rust-oleum High Performance Enamel in gloss black. I plan to follow up with Fluid Film as final protective barrier.
I didn't worry about masking, I just sprayed where was needed. One word of caution. Make sure you tape off or place the plug back in the hole in the bumper for your jack tool. I didn't and ended up getting rust reformer in my tail gate. Thankfully, it was able to clean it up.
It's a pretty straight forward process and not as difficult as I had imagined prior to doing it.
It really wasn't too difficult. I pressure washed the undercarriage the best I could a few days before it started to clean the dirt and crud off. The first day took about 5 hours between cleaning with a wire wheel/brush and spraying. I did my best to knock away and flaking rust and debris then sprayed the rust reformer. It turns the surface you spray flat black. The manufacturer recommends allowing 24 hours to dry before spraying a top coat. Due to my work schedule, it ended up being 5 days for me. I did one coat of rust reformer and one coat of Rust-oleum High Performance Enamel in gloss black. I plan to follow up with Fluid Film as final protective barrier.
I didn't worry about masking, I just sprayed where was needed. One word of caution. Make sure you tape off or place the plug back in the hole in the bumper for your jack tool. I didn't and ended up getting rust reformer in my tail gate. Thankfully, it was able to clean it up.
It's a pretty straight forward process and not as difficult as I had imagined prior to doing it.
@MountaineerLC : That's really helpful. Follow up question: During the curing of the reformer, do they recommend the car not be driven? Or is it ok to drive as long as it stays dry? The reason I ask is that this my only vehicle and it being out of commission for that long might be a challenge.
There are no recommendations from Rust-oleum, but I recommend not driving it once you start spraying. I say that because you wouldn't want to spray the reformer, then drive it and get the undercarriage dirty again before you spray the paint. That said, as long as the weather is good and your careful to avoid getting things wet/dirty it would be fine.
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Replaced the lower shock mount for front passenger side, Icon stage 1 shocks all the way around. Shout out to Icon, amazing customer service, a pleasure to deal with and lots of support. My 04 LC is super quiet now, front end clunk gone!!!!!
Thanks guys!!
Thanks guys!!
My son has same double din in his 01 Seq, great set up.
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I am new to the 100 series. Coming from the 40 forum OCD Bettle has a really successful, fun thread where we post a pic of wheeling, a fix, a new part, etc. for our trucks.
It's neat to see the mix of projects, daily driving issues, weekend wheelin reports, etc.
I thought the 100 forum could use one...
I'll start...today I ordered an Iron Man 2 inch lift kit for my 99'.
I just re-entered the 100 series club after being away for 4 years. I can't believe I started this thread in 2012 and we have 1080 PAGES now!!!
Crazy.
So I bought a 2000 White, stock LC. I had a 99 when I started this thread and in between have had a 2001 (that I obviously regretted selling)
Thanks for allowing me a memory lane moment....back to LC stuff. I'm baselining fluids and just enjoying driving it right now!
A team member at work challenged me to come up with a solution to the spare tire carrier being under the vehicle without building an entire bumper with a swing out. Fearing the prospect of my heavy spare tire bouncing down the road when my construction had failed, I overbuilt pretty substantially. While it’s not yet finished, this is my current status. The latch needs to be re-mounted, as it will be prone to dragging (despite the high departure), but otherwise everything works as planned, ish. Now that I’ve invested the time and effort, I wish I’d just built a bumper...
Please note, my Drifta-style drawers are not yet finished.
Please note, my Drifta-style drawers are not yet finished.
I like it, you are doing it instead of buying it
Fixed this screw up, which was all my fault:
Installed 8 new coil pack, only two were toyota originals all the rest looked like cheap ones also torqued the spark plugs. I had terrible mileage like 1 gas tank would give me 145-155 miles only and had slight miss fires. It feels more responsive now and the engine sounds little different, I am not sure about the mileage will see if that improves.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Did you make the voltmeter panel ?? looks mint
