What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (69 Viewers)

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I've considered using 2 old reflective windshield shades as material sources for something like this. I would think this would be a HUGE benefit here in Central TX.

I thought about cannibalizing windshield shades I had, but a roll of Reflectix was 20-something bucks. And I've got plenty left to do the back glass on the hatch.

But yeah, this'll help so much in the summer. Mostly did it for that reason, but it'll add a little privacy when sleeping in the back as well.
 
Bro-in law bought a cheeeeeeaap non running 100 in Scottsdale. It was advertised as needing a tow due to unknown circumstances. (Older woman who I believe was going to assisted living and her kids were selling it). Pushed it out of the garage (in park). Jumped and fired right up after sifting over 2 years. Took the transfer case out of neutral and drove away. 😂
Did some fluids last night, put an OEM rack in it (never again!!) and replaced a bunch of bulbs. He’s been driving it every day.

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Dang that thing is CLEAN!! Come on now tell us how much you guys paid - I love stories like that.
 
Installed new valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and spark plug tube seals. Job was fairly easy but the valve cover kit that i bought online wasnt quite OEM. The spark plug tube gaskets were not fitting. Ended up breaking them trying to get them in. Luckily my local Toyota was able to get some in over night (at $6 per gasket!) OEM fit much nicer. Just waiting for the silicone to dry now⏳
 
Dang that thing is CLEAN!! Come on now tell us how much you guys paid - I love stories like that.
Oh it’s not clean. It’s got a lot of bumps and bruises and the interior was disgusting. It’s going to be off road a lot so he didn’t care. It was 3k. It has 245k, radiator, thermostat, hoses, timing belt, etc all done within the last 10k or so.
 
Bought it! Best $4k I've ever spent...

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You sure there's a powertrain in there? :clap: Enjoy it!

RIGHT?! 245k with the AHC removed and OME lift, ZERO rust, timing belt done at 220k, interior in awesome shape, aftermarket head unit and speakers, and previous owner just replaced all rotors and pads, front cv axles, diff, transfer case and transmission fluids. The 305's are Toyo Open Countrys and have ~1,000 miles on them...

He had it listed for $6,500 and I swung way low and he bit. Drove it the 2 hours back home cruising at 75 - I'm in love! Need to do a write-up...
 
RIGHT?! 245k with the AHC removed and OME lift, ZERO rust, timing belt done at 220k, interior in awesome shape, aftermarket head unit and speakers, and previous owner just replaced all rotors and pads, front cv axles, diff, transfer case and transmission fluids. The 305's are Toyo Open Countrys and have ~1,000 miles on them...

He had it listed for $6,500 and I swung way low and he bit. Drove it the 2 hours back home cruising at 75 - I'm in love! Need to do a write-up...
Such a shame he did all that before you had a chance to buy it. I bet you will be bored now there is nothing left for you to do.

Congrats!
 
CV boot split and threw up everywhere. Due to having 340k miles I figure it would be smart to replace rather than reboot. With the hopes of keeping the respect of the LC purests, I shopped around for an OEM CV. But considering I have zero experience working on cars (without a cruiser head helping me, thank you @Bripars40) I decided to keep it simple. So instead of paying $400 for OEM. I used a promo and paid Autozone $69 (including shipping) for a brand new Carquest CV Axle. Please note the picture proves that they even gave it a heat test. How thoughtful. I was nervous that once I got started I would be unable to ever drive her again, but overall the job was surprisingly simple. I followed the steps I found on TLCfaq.com(Is that taboo?) So far the CARQUEST CV has lasted 10 miles!


Part
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
Steps
Front Axle (CV) Assembly Replacement


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CV boot split and threw up everywhere. Due to having 340k miles I figure it would be smart to replace rather than reboot. With the hopes of keeping the respect of the LC purests, I shopped around for an OEM CV. But considering I have zero experience working on cars (without a cruiser head helping me, thank you @Bripars40) I decided to keep it simple. So instead of paying $400 for OEM. I used a promo and paid Autozone $69 (including shipping) for a brand new Carquest CV Axle. Please note the picture proves that they even gave it a heat test. How thoughtful. I was nervous that once I got started I would be unable to ever drive her again, but overall the job was surprisingly simple. I followed the steps I found on TLCfaq.com(Is that taboo?) So far the CARQUEST CV has lasted 10 miles!


Part
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
Steps
Front Axle (CV) Assembly Replacement


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Have made that mistake on my 1" lifted LX. The non-OEM CVs have a tri-ball cage, whereas the OEM has 6 balls. Mine ran for 2k miles before making a bunch of whirring noises like the diff was going out. The warranty replacement spit out tons of grease from day one.
 
Have made that mistake on my 1" lifted LX. The non-OEM CVs have a tri-ball cage, whereas the OEM has 6 balls. Mine ran for 2k miles before making a bunch of whirring noises like the diff was going out. The warranty replacement spit out tons of grease from day one.
Well I definitely do not want it to mess up my diff. Tomorrow I will take apart the OEM and see if it looks good enough to do a rebuild/reboot.
 
After purchasing @ga12r1 adjustable Tough Dog rear shocks and Ironman foams pro fronts for HIH I was alsolutely blown away! I decided to get the 53s from Jason to match the rears. And the heavy tourflex springs.. and new 9 stage rears... Passing off the take offs to @DragoISAR

Installed everything today.. advice for those installing TD rear shocks... MAKE SURE YOUR MOUNTS ARE SUPER CLEAN AND SMOOTH, AND USE ANTI SIEZE... Had to drill out the bushings on the old ones, then cut the sleeve to get them off. New bushings are on the way
 
Installed my ASFIR 1/4” aluminum skid. Though it was back ordered, and I ended up having to wait a bit for it, I’m pretty pleased with the improvement in coverage. While under the LX I think I saw an
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opportunity to do a belly skid that will protect the cats and tranny pan. I’ve got a piece of 3/16” plate and some angle stock for reinforcement that should do the trick.
 
Installed my ASFIR 1/4” aluminum skid. Though it was back ordered, and I ended up having to wait a bit for it, I’m pretty pleased with the improvement in coverage. While under the LX I think I saw an View attachment 2077594opportunity to do a belly skid that will protect the cats and tranny pan. I’ve got a piece of 3/16” plate and some angle stock for reinforcement that should do the trick.

Was it easy to install?
 
Was it easy to install?
It’s very straightforward, but- I PB Blastered all my existing bolts before removing the splash guards and still twisted off 5 of 9 bolts. I’ll confess that I got frustrated after the third and just went for it on 4 and 5. I then had to drill out, over drill, and tap new threads for new fasteners. That went fine, but it took some time. And since my helper left for college last week, I had a bit of an exercise getting the new plate held in place while starting the bolts. No doubt I’ll learn some techniques for doing this in the future. Very worth it, but no 1 hour, carefree job.
 

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