What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (25 Viewers)

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Changed out all 4 accumulators today, truck is buttery smooth now!

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Just wondering what was your mileage when changed out? Any crazy symptoms to suggest they were shot. They definitely looks it. Thanks
 
Added an ARB 2500 Awning to my Gamiviti rack using the quick release receivers Tim makes. Loving this setup.

Also, replaced both rear rotors and all rear pads. To say they were toast would be an understatement. I think 3 trips this year to CO and 5 total in 18 months of ownership (40k miles total) put the nail in the coffin of the rear brakes (replaced the fronts back in February).

By the way, if anyone is considering storage boxes for their racks and are looking at things like Pelican or Alubox or some other high dollar option, do yourself a favor....consider the Rigid Tool Box from Home Depot. I've got 2 on the roof. One has the Jetboil, water bottles and all the Mountain House food bags and coffee with our Yeti cups. The other carries the inflatable full sized mattress and the Ryobi pump. Neither leaked one drop of water despite driving through torrential rain at highway speeds for several hours. Best part is: only $39!

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Just wondering what was your mileage when changed out? Any crazy symptoms to suggest they were shot. They definitely looks it. Thanks
Only 4ish graduations on the reservoir for the L to H test is the non invasive indication the diaphragms have ruptured. Others steps are to remove and inspect aka the pencil test but this doesn’t tell how much or little gas charge remains - it just tells you ruptured or not. The 16 step damper test will also help isolate a failed or bad corner too. But if you’re only getting 4 or 5 graduations on the reservoir (combined with lowering fluid level at N in the reservoir if you’ve had the vehicle long enough to notice) then there’s no real point looking for more evidence your globes are done.
 
Just wondering what was your mileage when changed out? Any crazy symptoms to suggest they were shot. They definitely looks it. Thanks

He was around 130k miles.

Some systems seem to fair better than others as I'm at 194k on my originals and they function perfectly.
 
Just wondering what was your mileage when changed out? Any crazy symptoms to suggest they were shot. They definitely looks it. Thanks


130K miles, 17 years old. Obvious symptoms would be truck riding like a pogo stick, bounces so bad your head hits the roof.
 
Did you test for brake fluid before fitting the new accumulators?


oops, i did not, i just put the new ones in, truck rides smooth again. Will they go bad again if there were other fluid contaminants in there?
 
Brake fluid? As if someone mistakenly put into the wrong reservoir? Thanks again for the feedback
 
Brake fluid? As if someone mistakenly put into the wrong reservoir? Thanks again for the feedback

As in people thought any hydraulic fluid would be fine in the AHC I believe. I have heard of such nightmare scenarios.
 
oops, i did not, i just put the new ones in, truck rides smooth again. Will they go bad again if there were other fluid contaminants in there?
Certainly not desirable to have any of the ethylene glycol ether (brake fluid stuff) family of chemicals, or any non hydraulic fluid really, remaining in your suspension fluid if the original fluid was tainted. Even when you do a system drain and refill and lower the vehicle down to the bump stops there’s still a reasonable amount of old fluid remaining in the shock actuators - about 200ml in each front and about 180ml in each rear and there will be more in the hydraulic lines.
 
Hi all,

I bought my LX couple months back with 141,360 and getting it baselined. No plans for off-roading it at this time. So far done the following:
coolant t's
spark plugs
fuel filter
engine, cabin filters
flush power steering fluid with valvoline synthetic
mobil1 in front/rear diffs and transfer case
coolant flush (could not undo passenger side block drain but was able to reach it)
thermostat
radiator cap and upper/lower hoses
mobil1 oil change

Need to do the transmission fluid and take care of some surface rust on the undercarriage. The timing belt and v-belt (but not water pump) were done at 78k in 2012. I may wait until 180k or later depending on how I feel. I drive less than 5k miles per year, so it'll take a while before I'm actually there. Looks like people don't really go by time around here. I'll check the pump carefully since it seems like other things cause the TB to fail rather than the belt itself.

Loving this site and truck! I had a 2007 Runner before, but this is worlds above. Miss the gas mileage though.
 
Changed the oil (Mobil1 5W-30), went camping with the wife and kids, and today I put a new remote battery in and changed the driver's door lock actuator motor. No more using the key to lock/unlock! I got my motors for about $6 each and they are pretty easy to replace. Thanks MUD for the fix info! Saved hundreds of dollars over buying two lock/latch assemblies!

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Changed the oil (Mobil1 5W-30), went camping with the wife and kids, and today I put a new remote battery in and changed the driver's door lock actuator motor. No more using the key to lock/unlock! I got my motors for about $6 each and they are pretty easy to replace. Thanks MUD for the fix info! Saved hundreds of dollars over buying two lock/latch assemblies!

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Nice look! Wheel offset and size? Tire size? Any spacers?
 
I learned a lot this weekend. Mainly, a new threshold for how much I am willing to pay for labor.
DT Headers, gaskets, nuts, engine mounts went in over the weekend. It's amazing how few nuts and bolts can produce so many busted knuckles and 4 letter words. Yes, I finished in the dark last night. New nuts and gaskets & mounts were delayed by weather...
Need to move some hoses and wrap some stuff in heat wrap still. NO MORE TICKING, SO GOOD!

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