What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (66 Viewers)

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The plain key has a chip in the plastic/rubber end - it just doesn't have the 3-button integral remote; so maybe plain isn't the right adjective. The locksmith stuck the good key (with the remote) in some magic box and then put in the plain key with the chip. He used the term 'cloning.' Then to his milling machine and then to the truck which fired right up. $75 which includes the cost of the plain/chipped key blank.

He couldn't clone the ebay key so he used another magic box connected to the OBD to program the immobilizer. Also a trip to the milling machine. $40. The key blank with remote (and battery) was $28 shipped on ebay.

So the ebay key works ($68 all in) - and it has the remote which I was able to program myself using the in/out/turn/open/close/in/out/turn/etc shenanigans.

And for sure the key has to be programmed to start the truck. I put the programmed guts of the ebay key in the original key (before the trip to the locksmith) and the truck would crank/turn over but wouldn't start.

tbuck, did the plain key without electronic fob work? dealer is telling me that the key is "chipped" and if it's not programmed, a plain key won't work. just wondering if this is b.s. thanks
 
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Replaced my front seat covers with some product from lseats.com. Is it as good as the OEM product - No. Is it one tenth the cost of the OEM product - Yes. So for my purposes it was a good trade-off - YMMV. I've done a few car interiors in my time and therefore know I should have used some steam on the foam and the covers, but didn't. I just didn't have the time and workspace to do the job right (shame on me). I did decide to try out a two tone scheme that my wife seems to like (I'm still on the fence).
full
 
got drawers done
Any particular reason the flap that spans the gap to the tailgate is turned around and is sitting inside the vehicle? Does it get in the way of the drawer unit? Nice design BTW.
 
Went to 4.88 gears and replaced my steering rack. My 15yo LX470 drives like it did so many years ago when I bought it. Should have done this a long time ago. Thank you Mike and crew @ Desert Toy Shop in Mesa AZ!
 
Replaced my front seat covers with some product from lseats.com. Is it as good as the OEM product - No. Is it one tenth the cost of the OEM product - Yes. So for my purposes it was a good trade-off - YMMV. I've done a few car interiors in my time and therefore know I should have used some steam on the foam and the covers, but didn't. I just didn't have the time and workspace to do the job right (shame on me). I did decide to try out a two tone scheme that my wife seems to like (I'm still on the fence).
full
I'm interested in a bit more info and/or pics... I couldn't find anything for the 100 series on their site, did you have to call to order? Did you get new foam too?
 
I'm interested in a bit more info and/or pics... I couldn't find anything for the 100 series on their site, did you have to call to order? Did you get new foam too?

Did it all online, but I exchanged some e-mails and got a sample sheet to see the available color choices before ordering. I should note, this will not be an exact color match to the rear seats (Lexus I think called it Oak in 2000?). But the 2nd row is likely to go bye-bye for me anyway. Also, they only list the fronts for the LX470, here's the link

The process for steaming the foam and leather is described better here at leatherseats.com than anything I could write up. I only replaced the foam for the driver's side seat base. Really only replaced passenger side leather cover as it would have looked a bit strange to see new on one side, old on the other. The driver's side looked like someone caged up a large and angry cat, hence the need to replace.

Their claimed nominal ship date is 10-15 business days. I ordered around Thanksgiving and arrival was about 3-1/2 weeks to my door - so they used up about all of the 15 business days.

Not sure what other info or pics you want.
 
Installed a backup, review camera to my new touch-screen double-din head unit. Now my wife doesn't mind driving the truck!

I purchased a back up camera somewhat similar, to hook to a Pioneer DVD unit I have yet to install. Mind explaining how and where you ran the wiring, and if there were any things to be careful about? Example: Did you tap off the back-up lights to power up the camera or runs some supplemental wiring?
 
I purchased a back up camera somewhat similar, to hook to a Pioneer DVD unit I have yet to install. Mind explaining how and where you ran the wiring, and if there were any things to be careful about? Example: Did you tap off the back-up lights to power up the camera or runs some supplemental wiring?
I have a Pioneer DVD unit too. I bought it this year. Installing the Stereo is pretty straight forward. That said, if you want to watch video while under way, you'll need to be able to ground out the video wire while driving, rather than hooking it up to the EBrake. I plan to hook up switch for this, but for now I've got that wire (green I think) hidden right behind the ashtray and I just ground it on in the cigarette lighter. As for the backup camera, it's fairly straight forward. According to Crutchfield, there is a 20 pin connector behind the lower right kick panel that has the backup light power source you need. Rather than screwing with that, I just ran some decent gauge wire from the drivers side backup light. I was running the backup camera video wires anyway, so it wasn't a big deal. You'll just need to determine which of the two wires going to the backup lightbulb is hot. I think you need to hook that up to the violet and white wire on the head unit. Manual should tell you. You will need to go into your settings on the head unit to make sure you're not seeing a reversed image and that it's set to engage when you put it in reverse.
 
I have a Pioneer DVD unit too. I bought it this year. Installing the Stereo is pretty straight forward. That said, if you want to watch video while under way, you'll need to be able to ground out the video wire while driving, rather than hooking it up to the EBrake. I plan to hook up switch for this, but for now I've got that wire (green I think) hidden right behind the ashtray and I just ground it on in the cigarette lighter. As for the backup camera, it's fairly straight forward. According to Crutchfield, there is a 20 pin connector behind the lower right kick panel that has the backup light power source you need. Rather than screwing with that, I just ran some decent gauge wire from the drivers side backup light. I was running the backup camera video wires anyway, so it wasn't a big deal. You'll just need to determine which of the two wires going to the backup lightbulb is hot. I think you need to hook that up to the violet and white wire on the head unit. Manual should tell you. You will need to go into your settings on the head unit to make sure you're not seeing a reversed image and that it's set to engage when you put it in reverse.
sorry, lower left kick panel
 
Serpentine, idler and tensioner thanks to the help of several mud member and a good tech write up. Shop wanted 720 I did it for 120.
 
Most people use the back up lights as a source for power and that way the cam is only on during backing up. I tapped into the trailer wire harness for power so the cam is always on and then attached the wire from the back of the radio that is used for a back up cam to the proper wire at the ECU so it will come on when I go into reverse or I can hit the button on the radio and use the cam at any time.

You will need to find the right wire depending on the year of the car to tap into to turn on the cam when you switch to reverse.


I purchased a back up camera somewhat similar, to hook to a Pioneer DVD unit I have yet to install. Mind explaining how and where you ran the wiring, and if there were any things to be careful about? Example: Did you tap off the back-up lights to power up the camera or runs some supplemental wiring?
 
Any particular reason the flap that spans the gap to the tailgate is turned around and is sitting inside the vehicle? Does it get in the way of the drawer unit? Nice design BTW.

At the point where the hinge is on the side "flap" cabinets is a vertical divider below it. It's basically the side wall of the drawer box. Essentially, I built two drawer boxes (22x41"). They are bolted together in two places (front and back) to keep them tight together to act as one large box and remain level. Within each box is a drawer that is only 24" deep (the longer drawer slides were enormously expensive), about 17" wide, and 8.5" high.

Side cabinets - I then added three (vertically placed) pieces to the outside of the boxes, which keep it from shifting left to right, and act as the resting spots for those "flap" cabinet doors. They are cut to fit onto both sides of the box, and over the wheel wells. I'll try to post pics up of the build.

tbuck - thank you. just the info I needed. dealer wants $350!!! yikes
 
Did it all online, but I exchanged some e-mails and got a sample sheet to see the available color choices before ordering. I should note, this will not be an exact color match to the rear seats (Lexus I think called it Oak in 2000?). But the 2nd row is likely to go bye-bye for me anyway. Also, they only list the fronts for the LX470, here's the link

The process for steaming the foam and leather is described better here at leatherseats.com than anything I could write up. I only replaced the foam for the driver's side seat base. Really only replaced passenger side leather cover as it would have looked a bit strange to see new on one side, old on the other. The driver's side looked like someone caged up a large and angry cat, hence the need to replace.

Their claimed nominal ship date is 10-15 business days. I ordered around Thanksgiving and arrival was about 3-1/2 weeks to my door - so they used up about all of the 15 business days.

Not sure what other info or pics you want.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I didn't even think to look under Lexus on their site... derp. I appreciate the extra info, my front seats aren't bad but if they've got the pattern I'd happily replace at some point. I also like the two tone you did, it's a nice change.

I'll definitely need a new driver side seat base foam. Is OEM the way to go?
 
Found water in the rear carpet, during leak test found cracked rear weather stripping. Replaced the rear hatch weather stripping. The stripping that goes around the entire perimeter of the rear hatch. Rainy today so hoping problem solved before I put all the rear panels back in place.

Fun fact - the OEM part came with some form of non drying gasket gunk in the weather stripping channel. I was pretty stoked to find this as I had been having an internal debate about the use of adhesive or not when replacing. I decided to go the no adhesive route. When installing I noticed this gunk was already in the channel so that made me happy. Glad I didn't lather an adhesive on it prior to install. If I still find a leak from the stripping I'll come back with a lite coat of 3M Super Black Weatherstrip adhesive.
 
Replaced missing shock bolt. It works so much better when connected on both ends.
Amazing how well it drove without it. Noticed a clunk and some wheel shake but that's it. Procrastinated checking it out during the holidays thinking it was a much larger issue.
Thanks to a post on this site with size, easy hardware store purchase.

Oil Change and 5 tire rotate without a lift.
 
Bought a 2006 and am now having some fun:

-refinishing wheels
-new tires
-new side moulding
-new weather stripping
-a few new trim pieces
-professionally painted bumpers
-three stage compound and wax
-pulled carpet, cleaned floor, new carpet
-cleaned all interior trim pieces
-dynamat doors and rear cargo
-change all belts (incl timing), plugs, etc
-new speaker grills
-new front grill
-weathertech mats

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