Nope! Just sloppy steering which was more noticeable when you would crest a hill or go through a dip. Just really bad bump steer.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (27 Viewers)
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Nope! Just sloppy steering which was more noticeable when you would crest a hill or go through a dip. Just really bad bump steer.
Exiled
SILVER Star
The slowest rewiring project of all times continues with the running of the roof rack wire harness down to the engine compartment. I used the KC Hilites universal wire hider (at the suggestion of someone on this forum) and it worked AWESOME, like it was designed for the 100 series. Very easy to use, very clean install. Pro tip: it comes coiled up in the packaging which is awkward for the taping step, so I clamped it to a board and left it in the Texas sun for a while. That really helped.
Next step: SwitchPro 9100 install. Seems pretty intimidating but I am up for the challenge. My goal is for the wiring on my Land Cruiser to be so clean and logical that anyone who looks at it can understand it and work on it.
Next step: SwitchPro 9100 install. Seems pretty intimidating but I am up for the challenge. My goal is for the wiring on my Land Cruiser to be so clean and logical that anyone who looks at it can understand it and work on it.
Have the PowerStop setup along with wheel bearing kits from Cruiser Outfitters sitting in the garage awaiting install, probably next week (need someone to help pull the tent off the truck). All go smooth?
Had the LX undercarriage coated with Lanolin based waxy product.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
It looks...sticky. Is it sticky?Had the LX undercarriage coated with Lanolin based waxy product.
This is something similar...
www.waxoyl-usa.com
Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.
The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.
Yes. It is sticky and goes on pretty thick. Oh, it also makes for a smoky mess right now as the Woolwax permeates into the metal.
This is what was used.
Today when I left work I noticed a loud squeaking noise. At first I thought it was the car in front or behind me. Turns out it was me, it was obvious, and it was loud.
I decided to drive home and figure it out when I got home, (20 minute drive).
I narrowed down the noise to the front right side by rocking the car side to side. So I peaked underneath and the only obvious thing I could see was that I ripped, yet another, inner tie rod boot. F%#*. I knew I had to replace it either way, so I got started on tearing it apart.
While I was doing that I noticed the tie rod was “loose”. There was a visible loose knocking to it. I figured the inner tie rod went bad, odd considering I just replaced it this summer. When I got to removing the old boot I noticed the actual inner tie rod had spun loose and was at least 2-3 turns loose. I must’ve not tightened it enough.
I’m hoping now that was my squeaking noise and also that might explain the vibration I was feeling at freeway speed.
Yes very well done kit, everything went together perfectly.
Put together my yodamd key birthday present this morning. Very impressed with the quality.
This makes me so happy that I don't live somewhere that this is necessary. I commend folks for doing it and preserving their vehicles but it must be such a mess to work on after a bunch of tacky stuff is everywhere. Then again, working on a rusty s***box is no bueno eitherHad the LX undercarriage coated with Lanolin based waxy product.
It is supposed to set/harden/dry (you get the drift) in a few weeks/days depending on the weather. So, hopefully I can then install my Metal tech sliders, Ironman Diff drop and ASFIR skid plates in a couple of weeks.
Same. I haven't made the time to get after it with the polisher and see if I can clean it up- it's probably been a year since I pulled the rest of those off, lol.
Having kind of a blah day, decided to do something productive (somewhat) to try to get some momentum up for something else. So- replaced my OEM power window switch with one from eBay that I bought a couple weeks back. I'd been having trouble getting it to cooperate lately- hot days, in the rain, whatever, and getting the window down and wanting it back UP to keep the AC in or rain out and having the switch not cooperate... really sucks. I'm not trying to get soaking wet because I pulled over to buy a hamburger, or bake for 15 minutes inching the window back up 1" at a time. This is like a .01 banana job, and you might have to get someone to loan you the banana.
Switch:
www.ebay.com/itm/163761188554
$30 shipped to my house- way more cost effective than a Toyota part, and from what I can see, same. Will it last another 235k miles? Dunno, but at the rate I'm driving the truck, that'll be ~47yrs, so I'm good with it.
Steps:
1: using a plastic pry tool/ old screwdriver/ butterknife, gently push backwards on the coverplate from front of vehicle and lift up. There's supposed to be a catch on the front side, I think- mine is gone. So it came out easy. That's fine- gravity and existing catch on other side will hold it there, and if I ever roll this thing over and gravity quits working, I've got bigger problems than a dangling power window switch.
Old switch. Dusty.
2: Pull out a little slack in the cable from the door and undo the one connector from back.
3: Unscrew the three screws holding the switch assembly to cover plate.
Bottom side of old switch. One screw up front and two in back. The larger ones, through the black plastic. See the spot up front (pointy end) where the front clip broke off on mine? Looks old- I'm going with that as having been pre-me. I didn't hear or feel anything break away, at least.
4: Bop the old switch assembly out the back of coverplate. If you care to try to save the old switch, be more gentle than I was and unclip the 4 tiny and old mounting clips that hold it there. Fragile little boogers, though. I lost one and wasn't gentle, so... decide.
5: Screw the new assembly in place where old one came from
6: Replace connector (If you're like me, you plugged it in first and tested to make sure everything works. Bueno!).
7: Replace coverplate. Enjoy the crisp feel of new switches that will hopefully last a while. I didn't check to see if they light up- looks like there's provision there for it, but I'm not gonna die if they don't, as I don't believe my old ones did. My luck- they'll glow super annoyingly bright yellow or something. BUT the window goes up and down on request again.
To be fair- the old one looks like it had someone's soda dumped in it at some point. Could you get by with a $5 can of electrical contact cleaner? Possibly. I haven't decided whether I'll junk the old one or clean it up and see if that helps- it really feels like in addition to being dirty, it's just... old.
Switch:
www.ebay.com/itm/163761188554
$30 shipped to my house- way more cost effective than a Toyota part, and from what I can see, same. Will it last another 235k miles? Dunno, but at the rate I'm driving the truck, that'll be ~47yrs, so I'm good with it.
Steps:
1: using a plastic pry tool/ old screwdriver/ butterknife, gently push backwards on the coverplate from front of vehicle and lift up. There's supposed to be a catch on the front side, I think- mine is gone. So it came out easy. That's fine- gravity and existing catch on other side will hold it there, and if I ever roll this thing over and gravity quits working, I've got bigger problems than a dangling power window switch.
Old switch. Dusty.
2: Pull out a little slack in the cable from the door and undo the one connector from back.
3: Unscrew the three screws holding the switch assembly to cover plate.
Bottom side of old switch. One screw up front and two in back. The larger ones, through the black plastic. See the spot up front (pointy end) where the front clip broke off on mine? Looks old- I'm going with that as having been pre-me. I didn't hear or feel anything break away, at least.
4: Bop the old switch assembly out the back of coverplate. If you care to try to save the old switch, be more gentle than I was and unclip the 4 tiny and old mounting clips that hold it there. Fragile little boogers, though. I lost one and wasn't gentle, so... decide.
5: Screw the new assembly in place where old one came from
6: Replace connector (If you're like me, you plugged it in first and tested to make sure everything works. Bueno!).
7: Replace coverplate. Enjoy the crisp feel of new switches that will hopefully last a while. I didn't check to see if they light up- looks like there's provision there for it, but I'm not gonna die if they don't, as I don't believe my old ones did. My luck- they'll glow super annoyingly bright yellow or something. BUT the window goes up and down on request again.
To be fair- the old one looks like it had someone's soda dumped in it at some point. Could you get by with a $5 can of electrical contact cleaner? Possibly. I haven't decided whether I'll junk the old one or clean it up and see if that helps- it really feels like in addition to being dirty, it's just... old.
Good Job. The eBay unit that I bought last year has been holding up well. One day I left the window down and it rained. It filled up the switch with water. I used compressed air to blow out the water and let it dry out for a day. After it dried out, normal operation resumed.
Since the price is so reasonable, I later bought a 2nd unit to keep as a spare.
No complaints.
new wheels/tires
also not pictured replaced the UCA with freedom offroad - front end feels much more solid - UCA bushings were toast and previously could not get caster in spec with ~1" AHC sensor lift - all is well with alignment now
also not pictured replaced the UCA with freedom offroad - front end feels much more solid - UCA bushings were toast and previously could not get caster in spec with ~1" AHC sensor lift - all is well with alignment now
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A special Thank You to @apinti for the sale of his Alu-Cab 270* Shadow Awning... 
I got it hung today with the help of my neighbor...
I had to purchase the Alu-Cab brackets specifically designed for the Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform. They turned out to be very robust pieces as I assume they will mitigate twisting with any wind gusts, or that was what I kept telling myself when I saw the price...
Loads of shade and excellent workmanship all the way around this beast...
Sweet addition no matter how you do the math here mates...
Cheers mates,
G
I got it hung today with the help of my neighbor...
I had to purchase the Alu-Cab brackets specifically designed for the Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform. They turned out to be very robust pieces as I assume they will mitigate twisting with any wind gusts, or that was what I kept telling myself when I saw the price...
Loads of shade and excellent workmanship all the way around this beast...
Sweet addition no matter how you do the math here mates...
Cheers mates,
G
Whoa- that's a big ol awning. Enjoy that thing. I'm awning ignorant - I assume you'd lash out the corners to trees and stuff? Last one I set up was a mega deluxe tarp on a rope back in boy scout days.A special Thank You to @apinti for the sale of his Alu-Cab 270* Shadow Awning...
I got it hung today with the help of my neighbor...
View attachment 2805123
I had to purchase the Alu-Cab brackets specifically designed for the Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform. They turned out to be very robust pieces as I assume they will mitigate twisting with any wind gusts, or that was what I kept telling myself when I saw the price...
View attachment 2805126
Loads of shade and excellent workmanship all the way around this beast...
View attachment 2805127
Sweet addition no matter how you do the math here mates...
View attachment 2805128
Cheers mates,
G
