What have you been doing with your Toyota? (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter JohnnyOshow22
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I get down near the end of the project and it's decision time, make another trip or pile it on.
I usually choose the pile it on and make 1 trip.
Black Tundra is going to have a fun week.
But after this week she is bound for pacific. It won’t be nearly as shiny side up.
But after this week she is bound for pacific. It won’t be nearly as shiny side up.
JohnnyOshow22
KK0TEQ
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My Y pipe on my 80 has been cracked forever and Polly said I needed to fix it so...
Instead of fixing it I've decided to finally get this bad boy off the bench (it's been sitting and mocking me for nearly 2 years).
A stainless 3" downpipe is going to be so much nicer than the factory Y pipe, the extra grunt will be nice too!
Instead of fixing it I've decided to finally get this bad boy off the bench (it's been sitting and mocking me for nearly 2 years).
Nice! Can the 1FZFE handle the pressure? I've heard they don't like that very much...
Nice! Can the 1FZFE handle the pressure? I've heard they don't like that very much...
Australia does some super cool stuff with the 1fz. Obviously a whole lot more mods dumped into this to handle that power, but you can do a lot of fun stuff with them.
JohnnyOshow22
KK0TEQ
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Saul, depending on what you do the 1fzfe can make +1000hp and has been done many times over, later 1fz's like boost (95-97) much more than the early 93/4's. I will be starting at 7 psi and will gain 80-100 hp and ftlbs of torque. I may bump it a little after some time with some larger injectors I already have. The main thing is watching your AFR's to make sure you don't melt down a piston. As long as I stay in the realm where the ecu can supply a sufficient amount of fuel everything will be fine. Now if someone was to go with a stand alone ecu to provide more fuel and timing then theres reports that 14-15 psi is about the safest you can go on factory head studs/head gasket. But at 7 psi should make my 80 move similarly to a healthy 100 series, a rerun at some point on dark horses dyno will tellNice! Can the 1FZFE handle the pressure? I've heard they don't like that very much...
heres a 2500HP 1FZ and they're still trying to get more out of it
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Just putting on the miles! Figured I'd pull over for this one.
I've had the truck since 180000 in April 2014, that's 165678 miles ago in 102 months.....which works out to 1624 miles/month or 19,491.5 miles/year every year!! My average has fallen since covid, I was over 20k a year until 2020.
Only stranded twice, one ignition barrel disintegrated and a starter I let go too long. 2 timing belts, 3rd set of tires, brakes all around, 1 AC evaporator, and 2 ignition coils. Not bad for a 22 year old rig
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Found some snow. Pulled some MA plates out the ditch. Used the LX as an anchor to help a rover frens get unstuck. Fun times
Sweet! Where is that?
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this is just up little bear about 20 minutes from 4crs
Got the next work truck in the shop. Getting a bunch of PM work then a few fun things. Full ICON suspension. All of the RCI skids etc.
JohnnyOshow22
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Continued with turbo prep, mounted gauges and replaced the belts. I'd say I got the most use possible out of these Mr. T belts... I may get to replacing the fuel pump tomorrow, it has 355k on it so I'd say it has also served an admirable lifetime
What signs did you have of the starter needing replacement?View attachment 3148138
Just putting on the miles! Figured I'd pull over for this one.
I've had the truck since 180000 in April 2014, that's 165678 miles ago in 102 months.....which works out to 1624 miles/month or 19,491.5 miles/year every year!! My average has fallen since covid, I was over 20k a year until 2020.
Only stranded twice, one ignition barrel disintegrated and a starter I let go too long. 2 timing belts, 3rd set of tires, brakes all around, 1 AC evaporator, and 2 ignition coils. Not bad for a 22 year old rig
Mine isn't giving me any grief but at 230k miles I'm wondering at what point to deal with it. I can't imagine it will just s*** out and it will most likely have some signs of failing first.
have a feeling it's going to be a long weekend ahead lol.
Almost ready to align it
Amazingly the frame wasn't bent and everything is going back better than i anticipated. a little more strategic plating then i believe the tires will go back on and put it on the lift for intense scrutiny. i think next we're going to change the radiator mount as he's had some movement with it, afterthat we'll align it and mount the rtt and be done for now. i believe it's going to stay here until we put hyd assist on it so he can steer it with the front locker on then back to wyo. for those who haven't seen it it started as an 85 2wd pu has been lightly modified. more to come
Still waiting on the rack and front bumper. But was out checking drifts with it this am. It’s getting out on a hard work trip in a couple weeks.
Bowser, I’m curious what you do to baseline a truck when you first get it? How do you know it’s good to go and beat on it? Do you have a checklist of sorts? Care to share?
1 - Buy the correct truck for your needs. I don’t care the color or many things other than history and has it been maintained to a somewhat respectable level
Replace every fluid. I mean every. I drain the washer fluid. Learned that the hard way 20 years ago when I bought a locked 97 80 in FL in December. Fluid froze just before border of CA when driving home to AK.
Touch and inspect anything rubber. All hose. belt. Brake line etc. replace when they don’t feel right.
I replace all bulbs. Interior and exterior. Just then I know they are fresh. I don’t want to be bothered because a light is out.
I inspect all details of truck. I mean every brake line routing plus wiring etc. If anything has been messed with you can tell and I will look further and try to asses why was someone here.
All tie Rod ends. Lower and upper control arms replaced. Inspect all bushings on everything getting back to rubber. For me it’s usually 10-15 years old and comprised from age.
I then build to its needs. We have a lot of trucks for work reasons. They get setup for what they are intended to do.
Drive them as they are designed for. I drive like an old man personally but for work trucks I drive like the people I work with. This is very important to find the gremlins. Usually a 2-4 week process to get them ready to use. I spend more in basic maintenance parts from Ressler than you expect usually. It’s the small bits that make it reliable in my mind. Maybe not more cash but more important in the long run. If I spent 10-12 building a truck with fun bits I have 6-10 in oem bits as well.
That’s the basic list.
Fluids again. I replace them often. Every other year I don’t care if I only put 1k on a truck. It’s best way to tell if something is up. Metal bits. Smell. Etc you can tell when changing.
Replace every fluid. I mean every. I drain the washer fluid. Learned that the hard way 20 years ago when I bought a locked 97 80 in FL in December. Fluid froze just before border of CA when driving home to AK.
Touch and inspect anything rubber. All hose. belt. Brake line etc. replace when they don’t feel right.
I replace all bulbs. Interior and exterior. Just then I know they are fresh. I don’t want to be bothered because a light is out.
I inspect all details of truck. I mean every brake line routing plus wiring etc. If anything has been messed with you can tell and I will look further and try to asses why was someone here.
All tie Rod ends. Lower and upper control arms replaced. Inspect all bushings on everything getting back to rubber. For me it’s usually 10-15 years old and comprised from age.
I then build to its needs. We have a lot of trucks for work reasons. They get setup for what they are intended to do.
Drive them as they are designed for. I drive like an old man personally but for work trucks I drive like the people I work with. This is very important to find the gremlins. Usually a 2-4 week process to get them ready to use. I spend more in basic maintenance parts from Ressler than you expect usually. It’s the small bits that make it reliable in my mind. Maybe not more cash but more important in the long run. If I spent 10-12 building a truck with fun bits I have 6-10 in oem bits as well.
That’s the basic list.
Fluids again. I replace them often. Every other year I don’t care if I only put 1k on a truck. It’s best way to tell if something is up. Metal bits. Smell. Etc you can tell when changing.
