[quote author=cruiseroutfit link=board=1;threadid=9755;start=msg85824#msg85824 date=1073434886] Not sure you would be able to tighten them enough without destoying the o-ring... [/quote] well that are 1/2 set in the screw head so i think it might work well.........its also good when u have to pinch something also.........no vibe with that!
Since bolts depend on a clamping force to work, I would not use them on any critical spot. They would be fine to bolt the top down with but thats all I would use them for. The rubber will wear with vibration and the bolt will become loose IMO
I put a nice coat on anti-seizing on EVERYTHING. Also, I think yellow zinc coating is the most rust resistant. Although I'll admit that it is often difficult to find the right fastener, in metric, with the right head and right length, so to add your preference in coatings may make it impossible. I live in a small town with a "farm store" and they have a good selection of bolts in several grades and styles in metric, but I never go into a hardware store anywhere without checking their nuts and bolts department. The BEST place I found was in a very whitebread, yuppie, suburban neighborhood in Kansas City. They've got everything you could ever want in the fastener department. You've got to scrounge and find what you need! Good Luck, Ed Long
nocents is right. Even the added friction of having a rubber seal would change the clamping force on a head bolt and potentially make it uneven from bolt to bolt (warping the head and killing the head gasket). I've never seen them for F and 2F engines (haven't looked) but all the small and big blocks I build get studs.
Lock-tite the stud threads, put it finger tight in the block, put the head on and torque to 20 ft-lb only. This way the stud is straight up when the lock-tite dries. Next day torque the rest of the way. Because the studs are straight there is no chance of warping a cylinder when they are torqued (yep, it can happen)and because of the added clamping force there is NEVER a blown head gasket.
[quote author=Rice link=board=1;threadid=9755;start=msg86351#msg86351 date=1073514283] Lock-tite the stud threads, put it finger tight in the block, put the head on and torque to 20 ft-lb only. This way the stud is straight up when the lock-tite dries. Next day torque the rest of the way. Because the studs are straight there is no chance of warping a cylinder when they are torqued (yep, it can happen)and because of the added clamping force there is NEVER a blown head gasket. [/quote]
Personaly, If I were going to torque my headbolts there is no way I would do it the day AFTER I applied Lock tight to them. I cannot imagine that you would get a good torque number through dry locktight.
Hell I never have even thought about locktight on a head bolt. Something about 120ft/lbs generally not loosening on you.
Warping a cylinder on a Cruiser motor? VW flat air cooled 4 I can see. The venerable F/2F/3F warping because you torqued the head bolts.. Nah..
THe only thing I see wrong with those bolts is the fact that even a slight bit of moisture inside the tapped area can cause the rust too. Plus most of the threaded areas on a cruiser are open ended. So rust could get in the other end..
BTW, what motors use studs instead of head bolts and work well in cruisers???
Jason, the torque is being applied to studs with dry loctite, not bolts. This is for installation of the stud only, not for the nuts going on the studs. The 20 ft lbs the previous night is because loctite needs pressure to set. Once the studs are set the heads can be torqued down.
Torque from a head bolt will not warp a cylinder. Torque from a stud that has almost twice the clamping force will, in particular if the stud is not straight when the torque is applied.