Newbie -- What do you think of this one? (1 Viewer)

[kadshark]

i actually agree the passenger side gap between frame and bib seems a bit wider than on the drivers side which would give the impression of it being pushed up on that side. the corner where the hood bib and fender come together isn’t as smooth as the drivers side. probably a little body panel adjustments and it’s all be good but just look closely!

we’re probably just nitpicking though because we’re jealous our own 40s don’t look so nice. well mine doesn’t anyway!

This is great feedback. Totally glad I asked question in this forum!

 

[kadshark]

As a guy who rebuilt a cruiser from Vermont, I absolutely second this statement. I don’t doubt the power of fluid film or whatever is recommended, but Vermont is not afraid of salt and the damp environment means it never really stops its corrosive ways. Summer vehicle? Absolutely, the summers are plenty long. When you pull it back out in the spring, it’ll feel like a rebirth. Just my opinion.

Totally hear you. Do love my Miata in the summer (and it’s entirely useless in winter and even more susceptible to rust) — just have always had a thing for these 40s, and figure with studded snows I’ll be able to get my classic car fix over the winter, I am wrestling with whether I am willing to consign my soul to hell for car abuse, or whether one of these sprays, really good winter care and a garage can keep it looking decent.

 

[kadshark]

Agree with this. Local with a magnet and a little time would be great for this.

This seems to be the key — seen this elsewhere too; gotta run a magnet all over the place to find the bonding. Great advice; thank you.

 

[pb4ugo]

Why should you be embarrassed to say what someone else is asking for that 40? That's just stupid, like driving a 40 on salty roads. Buy a jeep. Have you looked in the classified section? There's a few solid sellers in there.

 

[kadshark]

Why should you be embarrassed to say what someone else is asking for that 40? That's just stupid, like driving a 40 on salty roads. Buy a jeep. Have you looked in the classified section? There's a few solid sellers in there.

Thanks, not about what they’re asking ($35k), but what I’m paying — less. Figure rather than bias anyone, I’d just ask what people think would be fair for this rig. Put it this way, would $30k be ridiculous? Really depends on what the inspection finds, right? No interest in Jeeps for whatever reason, and yep, looking at classifieds too.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Buy a subie or some other cheap AWD for winter and keep the 40 out of the salt, please.

 

[pb4ugo]

I rarely throw out a number. I figure that's between the seller and buyer. I will comment if it high or low. Does the seller have any b4 pics? I would think he should have pics for that kind of money. The rust bubbles and missing body seams in places where they are known to rust is concerning. What's it look like under the floor mat. Rhino lining hides a lot of sins. Don't get blinded by the bling or color. There's a lot of rusty bits and pieces under the hood that should have been addressed during the engine swap. Some are on the engine and others are in engine compartment. You can buy a rusty one and put an aluminum tub on it.

 

[pb4ugo]

The vehicles engine swap should effect its value too.

 

[Geezer Cruzzer]

Does look like a nice truck. I do see the rust bubbles around the rear reflectors. If it's there you can almost guarantee there is more waiting to appear. You will never win that battle. Nice to see OEM mats but don't like the undercoating in the back. Suspect the same under the front mat. Nice and dry underneath. Lots of rust coming through the undercoating. Lots of rust in the engine bay. Never know what it is hiding. Is it a $30-35K truck? Might be might not be. I personally don't think so. Would not pull the trigger on it without a professional inspection especially someone familiar with FJ40s. The wife and I spent almost two hours going over Miss Scarlet before purchasing her. We used magnets to try to find any bondo in all the likely spots. We were impressed that all the factory spot welds were intact.

 

[SteveH]

With a full, close inspection, that could be a very nice rig if the photos aren't lying. Pretty original inside and clean. Nothing wrong with the 3FE swap (I have an FJ62 and am biased - not a powerful engine, but a reliable one).

FJ40s are simply rust time-bombs and IMO, no amount of fluid film can stave off the rust. I grew up in Michigan and watched cars snap in half. I just would not drive that in the winter, but rather spray it with Fluid Film and keep it inside, un-driven. I don't even drive my '40 in Colorado in the winter, and it's nice to have the small bits of corrosion simply stay put and not grow.

 

[OPMACHINE]

Honest option is that this 40 has rust in the rear corner panels, above the rear wheel wells and probably in the rocker panel, front driver fender has been rolled in. Almost every 40 series has rust in one place or another. Rust alone should not be a deal breaker. Bondo is not the long term solution but it is a cosmetic fix. 1978 is a preferred year with front disk breaks and 4.10 gears and they are less prone to rust than the 79+ 40 series. 3F is a great motor with a little more HP, but not sure if it adds value over the stock 2F. The interior look great, original front floor liners. Everything seems to where it needs to be.

If you are going to be driving in the salt this is probably a good option. I would not want to take a rust free 40 series in the salt. I would make sure the powertrain and electrical system are in good shape. Smiles per mile should be your goal.

Sky Blue is the best color!