What did you do with your truck this week? (2 Viewers)

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used the hi lift jack i got from Steve at SEO for the first time. Had to find a leak in one of my tires.

If you need a highlift jack hit up steve!!! Great price. I've never used a high lift jack until then and it was much easier than a floor jack. Will make rotating tires much easier.
 
Be careful using a Hi-Lift though - they can bite you.

My FJ Cruiser is still at the transmission shop. Computer diagnosis didn't show anything. Hopefully they can locate the problem with some test drives.
 
used the hi lift jack i got from Steve at SEO for the first time. Had to find a leak in one of my tires.

If you need a highlift jack hit up steve!!! Great price. I've never used a high lift jack until then and it was much easier than a floor jack. Will make rotating tires much easier.


Just wait until you forget to chock the tires and the truck moves putting a big dent in your truck from the Hi-Lift bar. They have there uses, but a substitute when a floor jack is present they are not.;)

Just be safe.:cheers:

Jeremy
 
i'm sure finding a tire chalk out on the trail can be an issue.

When i was a kid my dad worked at the GE service center in donaldson cetner

One of his good friends retired from there. Was going to work on classic cars in his golden years.

Crawled under and elcamino. No jack stands or tire chalks.

His wife watched as the vechile fell on him and there was nothing she could do to help him.

tire chalks and jack stands = staying alive

and i've seen jack stands fail before.
 
Agreed that's why i always throw the tire under the truck just in case anything slips or fails. I've used my high lift before but prefer a Toyota bottle jack to anything. Although a lift would be nice. ;)
 
a tire, large wood blocks, a person that weights 3x your body weight...
 
Agreed that's why i always throw the tire under the truck just in case anything slips or fails. I've used my high lift before but prefer a Toyota bottle jack to anything. Although a lift would be nice. ;)

On this we agree a lift is nice. :) But I had the beast in the air last week and didn't check the right lift arm and well there is not much carnage just brushed off a fuel line fitting and scared 10 years of life(that I can;t waste)out of me. Be carefull lifting any car truck, bottle jack, hi lift or hydro lift they all can be killers. Now who wants to help me re do the fuel line under the thing next time.
 
IndianDoc I'll give you a hand man. I'm just down the road about 20 min.
 
I carry these for chocking the wheels on the trail. They're relatively cheap and fold flat enough to stuff two into a ammo clip pouch.
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Expedition Exchange Incorporated :: Wheels & Tires :: Land Rover Genuine Parts Steel Wheel Chock (ANR5449)
Yes, I know they are branded LR, but I don't think they actually say LR on them - if you're that particular.
 
Thanks Carp, I am currently looking at tire rack and see a lot of the tires with the load range marked XL, but I'm not seeing the LT marking, but they have a service description number ranging with 108S and 108R and 105S and 105T, what does that stand for??

The 108 and 105 are the load index and correspond to a max load the tire can carry at it's given speed symbol (the letter). So a 108S can carry more load at the specified speed than the 108R. The speed rating (the letter) indicates a sustained speed, which in these cases is greater than 100mph. Obviously we know that the 60 will never have to worry about sustained speeds in this range. However, the difference in the ratings might change the construction of the tire. A lower speed rating tire typically will lead to the vehicle responding slower to inputs than the OE ratings.

The correct answer to your question, from a technical standpoint, is that you should match the load rating and speed rating of the original tire. If I were putting tires on a 60, I'd match the Load rating, and either find an equal speed rating, or increase the speed rating, just to be safe. You should be OK with a lower speed rating, but I'd NEVER go with a lower load rating.
 
Ok carp will the load rating and speed ratings be on the door jamb where the tire size is located? I appreciate all the technical info, I'm getting quite the education!
 
My FJ Cruiser is still at the transmission shop. Computer diagnosis didn't show anything. Hopefully they can locate the problem with some test drives.

Update: Good news (hopefully). The shop, American Transmission on 123 in Easley SC, thinks the torque converter is OK and the planetary is OK also but might be the problem. The shop manager said the transmission fluid is in 'very bad condition' and has to be flushed. They are flushing the trans, replacing the filter, and the cost is only $285. If the trans goes soon thereafter they will deduct the $285 from the next repair.

I'm happy so far.
 
does your FJ have n tranny cooler on it?

If not i would add one.

If your fluid is bad it's probably due to heat and heat = death to automatic transmissions.

No tranny cooler would be fine for a stock street rig but your guy sees major torque at very low rpms with little to no air movement other than what an electric fan can provide.

Add to that the larger tires, lift, RTT that all create additional drag when she is going down the road.

the cooler you can keep an AT the longer she will last.
 
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It's that 1000lb's of extra gear Steve hauls around that cause the premature death. That or the time he let John Lee drive it and John got it stuck in a deep mud hole and sunk the transmission.
 
didn't some FJ's come with a towing package?

Usually a towing package means tranny cooler on AT equiped vehicles but i seem to remember Dodge having a recall of many trucks back in the 90's due to the towing package not having the extra cooler and it was causing transmissions to fail at very low mileage.
 
Stock FJC trannies should be fine. Here is the magic question:

How many miles on that tranny in harsh service and how many miles since the last flush?

Make sure they do the passive flush that uses the truck to pump the fluid vs. a power flush.

Factory is 30-50k miles between flushes, some longer, but harsh condition use shortens that to 20-30k miles max, possibly less with deep water.
 
Stock FJC trannies should be fine. Here is the magic question:

How many miles on that tranny in harsh service and how many miles since the last flush?

Make sure they do the passive flush that uses the truck to pump the fluid vs. a power flush.

Factory is 30-50k miles between flushes, some longer, but harsh condition use shortens that to 20-30k miles max, possibly less with deep water.

Trans has original fluid @ appx 92k miles. FJ Cruisers are 'supposed' to have sealed/lifetime trans that don't need service. It has been dunked a few times but for very short periods of time. Looks like I'll be picking her back up later today.

And yup, I got a ton of junk in my trunk. It is only going to get heavier with a set of BudBuilt skids going on as soon as I go pick them up. :grinpimp:

Oh, and don't forget the SAC... :grinpimp::grinpimp:
 
It's that 1000lb's of extra gear Steve hauls around that cause the premature death. That or the time he let John Lee drive it and John got it stuck in a deep mud hole and sunk the transmission.

Probably all of the stuff he carries. John Lee wouldnt do a mean thing like that. :steer:
 
there is a big difference between burnt AT fluid and water contamination.

Water will stick out like poo in your bowl of fruity pebbles.

If they say it is burnt (dark, foul odor) then i would highly recomend a cooler.

If it's water (they would have found that immediatly if they dropped the pan) then i wouldn't worry about it.
 

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