OK I will answer what I know.
I just replaced the driver motor mount. I did not use a cherry picker. Take the bolt out of the mount. Find a hard mount on the motor( I used the lip next to the oil pan) and a use a ratchet strap to hold the frame from going up with the jack, frame to spring or axle works. Don't go up to high. Just allow enough space to wiggle the old one out and slide the new one in. Put a new bolt in and lower then tighten. I looked at the passenger mount and it looked more complicated and the battery and battery mount were in the way so I passed. It looked in better condition than the driver mount, that had to be replaced. If you can loosen the passenger mount that would probably help. I'm sure a purist/better mechanic would have another opinion on how to do this, but it worked for me.
My exhaust fits above skid plate with my header. Not an issue for me. But if your going to change out the rear mounts, seal and clutch then take it off and enjoy the room to replace stuff.
I have a 70 so no smog
Not sure what your asking but if it works leave it alone. You will find that taking something off will always lead to another problem. Rusted bolts, stripped something, etc etc. Your not doing a restoration are you? I would pass on painting but thats me. So much can go wrong pulling all that stuff off just so it looks good. In a year or two it will have dirt and oil on it.
Taking off the front clip will give so much more room too work on the radiator thermostat fan etc. It comes off and goes on easy. Leave the fenders and side stuff on unless your doing power steering on that side. If your painting it then they should probably come off.
I like having my header. It was perfect for me at the time. I did put a shackle bolt thru it while wheeling once. Easy fix but it fits tight along the frame rail. Not sure if I noticed any real improvement in power. But did notice my mpg got better. Went to Weber carb, Dui distributor at the same time. Increased my mileage to about 15 mpg sometimes I get up to 20 on the freeway with no hills or wind.
If the system has never been flushed or taken care of you can expect a certain amount of goo. My radiator was ok when I bought it. But it overheated occasionally so I just replaced it with a 4 core at about 200.00 it was much better than cleaning the old one. I flushed the the whole system before I replaced the radiator. Shop around on line for a good price. Has to be a 4 core. There are shops that will clean and refurbish yours. Not sure what it would cost. There is an argument for spending $$$ on an aluminum one but I would put that money elsewhere.
Others in the club know more about this stuff than I do. And may be more for you restoring it than just running it. But just be aware that cost escalates fast in any repair. Parts are getting harder to find and very expensive. My thoughts go to if it ain't broke don't fix it, cause you'll probably break it fixing it. My Krusty turns 50 next month. That is old for any machine. And I am not gentle. But it gets me out on the Rocks and gets me home most of the time. Love the camping and the rockcrawling, not so much the wrenching and maintenance. I do it out necessity.
at most. Had to wrestle the clutch and fan blade together in/out a little but wasn't anything overly bad. DEFINITELY need a long 12mm wrench, luckily my 12mm S-bend wrench for door hinges worked perfectly.
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