Builds What did you do with your cruiser today?

Tony_Farson

GOLD Star
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
940
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
Well... It is cool to see it looking like an FJ40 again, if only briefly before I tear it down again for paint. It is clear the springs are all wrong though! I think it is lifted much higher than 4" over stock and I am 99% certain that the springs are too short. I don't see how they will "settle" to normal shackle angle from where they are now.

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I also do not see a 2-inch axle push in the rear, if anything it is closer to the front, not further away!
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I think I see a 2-inch push forward up front though, but look at the gap between the tire and top of the fender! :oops:
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Oh well... problems for another day. For now, it is time to get the full cage fitted, welded, and powder coated.
 

rusty_tlc

Dain Bramaged Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2005
Messages
13,913
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
 
Yeah I know but I already have the Viair, plus don't want to be cutting and spliting something like that into the v8. Almost did that with the FJ60 but not on the 100.
@rusty_tlc Dan I may bring the EWD book for my truck, would love to figure out how to utilize the AHC plugs to grab power for the system, seeing as that is the area that I plan to mount.
Cool, I just found an empty relay socket int the fuse block and tapped into that for my ARB compressor.
 

Tony_Farson

GOLD Star
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
940
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
What kind of lift is that Tony? Agree definitely looks off.
It is a custom (that is a dirty, dirty word!) springs from Atlas Suspension. I was inspired to use them when I saw the results @MyCruiserisaHogBeast got from his setup from them.

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I know they'll work it out, the shop owner said he will do whatever it takes to make it right. I just need to get off the discouragement train and get my butt in gear on this build.
 

rusty_tlc

Dain Bramaged Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2005
Messages
13,913
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
 
It is a custom (that is a dirty, dirty word!) springs from Atlas Suspension. I was inspired to use them when I saw the results @MyCruiserisaHogBeast got from his setup from them.

View attachment 2317319

I know they'll work it out, the shop owner said he will do whatever it takes to make it right. I just need to get off the discouragement train and get my butt in gear on this build.
Those shocks, every time I see that picture......
 

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 4, 2011
Messages
11,733
Location
Carson City, NV
 
I ordered a new fan clutch because Will and Lee jinxed me after talking about it on Thursday. On Friday I went and replaced the tensioner bearing and idler pulley and then my fan clutch decided that it was going to take a crap and lock up permanently!
Thanks @WILLD420 and @lelandEOD I appreciate you spending my money for me!:bang:
 

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 4, 2011
Messages
11,733
Location
Carson City, NV
 
What are friends for!? It is always something when vehicles are your chosen hobby... :)
I never said that it was my "CHOSEN" hobby.. LOL
This vehicle WAS NOT supposed to be a project like the last one. Damn rescues.... :rofl:

Also, @rusty_tlc Dan did you do the timing belt/water pump service on your 100 yourself or did you take somewhere? I will need mine in about 5k miles and debating if I want to dive that deep down the rabbit hole.
 

rusty_tlc

Dain Bramaged Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2005
Messages
13,913
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
 
I never said that it was my "CHOSEN" hobby.. LOL
This vehicle WAS NOT supposed to be a project like the last one. Damn rescues.... :rofl:

Also, @rusty_tlc Dan did you do the timing belt/water pump service on your 100 yourself or did you take somewhere? I will need mine in about 5k miles and debating if I want to dive that deep down the rabbit hole.
I took it to a shop, that said the shop I used is no longer in business and I am searching for a local shop I trust.
 

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
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Joined
Nov 4, 2011
Messages
11,733
Location
Carson City, NV
 
I took it to a shop, that said the shop I used is no longer in business and I am searching for a local shop I trust.
Ok bummer... I like Capital Automotive down here in Carson. They did my starter and seemed reasonably priced. Guys were younger mechanics (at least ones that worked on my truck) super communicative, sent me text with information on their "standard testing" that they do with all their vehicle service, etc. So may have them take a stab at it. Main tech that worked on mine was reviewing the shop book which told him to remove upper then lower intake (two separate pieces) to get to the starter. I told him to search MUD for the starter procedure as the whole intake SHOULD come off as one piece. When I picked it up he thanked me for the tip and said that he spent a whole evening reading through the forums as there was some awesome knowledge. And yes, whole intake came off as thought which made the job a bit quicker.

Anyways, I was able to replace the fan clutch last night. Ended up being about a 2hr job and :banana: at most. Had to wrestle the clutch and fan blade together in/out a little but wasn't anything overly bad. DEFINITELY need a long 12mm wrench, luckily my 12mm S-bend wrench for door hinges worked perfectly.
 

rusty_tlc

Dain Bramaged Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2005
Messages
13,913
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
 
I moved the 100 into the garage today. The Serp belt vanished somewhere between Reno and Washoe Valley Friday night so it will get some love tomorrow.
 

airon23

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
1,526
Location
Reno NV
 
 
 
POSTED EARLIER IN MY BUILD THREAD...

Ok I went ahead and started in on the disassembly to start the project of changing seals/gaskets on motor as well as changing clutch and rear main seal. I'm also hoping to clean and paint the motor with POR15 engine enamel a blue and white combo. Wish me luck.

I got this far today and felt a little stuck so I'm hoping to get some help...

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This is how it sits as of right now...
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Questions and where I got stuck and could use some help:
  • Do I need a cherry picker to lift the motor to put the new motor mounts on?
  • Do I need to remove the exhaust system to remove the transmission skid plate?
  • I see several things that are used for smog system, however the smog pump has no belt connected to it so I don't think it is working. So am I just better off removing all smog stuff? If so what all does that entail.
  • Do I need to keep everything on the way it is now so it will run right or will removing everything make it start running differently and I'll have issues?
  • I haven't removed the fenders, front bib, push bull bar, am I dumb and making things harder for myself and I just need to remove them?
  • I have some new headers I want to throw on, does this remove the smog exhaust stuff anyway? Should I even put the headers on?
  • The radiator was plugged up at the drain point with a bunch of muck, I easily stuck something up there and it all came loose and drained just fine. Does this indicate a problem with the radiator, or is this common expected wear and tear from running so many years?
I really appreciate help with this especially if you've ever done this same work, or just have the knowledge. Am I in over my head already?
I know that's a lot to ask, but feel free to respond to any of the questions. Thanks in advance.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2007
Messages
1,035
Location
Carson City NV
 
 
OK I will answer what I know.

I just replaced the driver motor mount. I did not use a cherry picker. Take the bolt out of the mount. Find a hard mount on the motor( I used the lip next to the oil pan) and a use a ratchet strap to hold the frame from going up with the jack, frame to spring or axle works. Don't go up to high. Just allow enough space to wiggle the old one out and slide the new one in. Put a new bolt in and lower then tighten. I looked at the passenger mount and it looked more complicated and the battery and battery mount were in the way so I passed. It looked in better condition than the driver mount, that had to be replaced. If you can loosen the passenger mount that would probably help. I'm sure a purist/better mechanic would have another opinion on how to do this, but it worked for me.

My exhaust fits above skid plate with my header. Not an issue for me. But if your going to change out the rear mounts, seal and clutch then take it off and enjoy the room to replace stuff.

I have a 70 so no smog:)

Not sure what your asking but if it works leave it alone. You will find that taking something off will always lead to another problem. Rusted bolts, stripped something, etc etc. Your not doing a restoration are you? I would pass on painting but thats me. So much can go wrong pulling all that stuff off just so it looks good. In a year or two it will have dirt and oil on it.

Taking off the front clip will give so much more room too work on the radiator thermostat fan etc. It comes off and goes on easy. Leave the fenders and side stuff on unless your doing power steering on that side. If your painting it then they should probably come off.

I like having my header. It was perfect for me at the time. I did put a shackle bolt thru it while wheeling once. Easy fix but it fits tight along the frame rail. Not sure if I noticed any real improvement in power. But did notice my mpg got better. Went to Weber carb, Dui distributor at the same time. Increased my mileage to about 15 mpg sometimes I get up to 20 on the freeway with no hills or wind.

If the system has never been flushed or taken care of you can expect a certain amount of goo. My radiator was ok when I bought it. But it overheated occasionally so I just replaced it with a 4 core at about 200.00 it was much better than cleaning the old one. I flushed the the whole system before I replaced the radiator. Shop around on line for a good price. Has to be a 4 core. There are shops that will clean and refurbish yours. Not sure what it would cost. There is an argument for spending $$$ on an aluminum one but I would put that money elsewhere.

Others in the club know more about this stuff than I do. And may be more for you restoring it than just running it. But just be aware that cost escalates fast in any repair. Parts are getting harder to find and very expensive. My thoughts go to if it ain't broke don't fix it, cause you'll probably break it fixing it. My Krusty turns 50 next month. That is old for any machine. And I am not gentle. But it gets me out on the Rocks and gets me home most of the time. Love the camping and the rockcrawling, not so much the wrenching and maintenance. I do it out necessity.:cool:
 

airon23

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
1,526
Location
Reno NV
 
 
 
Thanks for the input and information. I'm just getting into it so I'll update how it goes. You make some good points I'll keep in mind.

It is not a restoration by any means. I just really want to make sure it will continue to run reliably and for another 40+ years. Much of the things I'm fixing or replacing has never been maintained in the life of the truck.
 

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
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Joined
Nov 4, 2011
Messages
11,733
Location
Carson City, NV
 
Alita got two upgrades last night....
First was the start of the stereo system upgrade with a new JOYING 7" Android head unit. Gotta take care of some other stuff (backup camera install, speakers, reverse wiring for camera, new amp, etc.) before it is done. For now though the unit works, and I have CARPLAY!!
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Then also upgraded the low beams with Diode Dynamics SL1 LED bulbs. USA Made and built to exacting standards of halogen bulb filament size/depth to allow for proper throw pattern in a reflector housing. Not the cheapo eBay/Amazon s*** you see most lifted douche canoes and rice burners running, these are legit!
Nice cutoff, no excessive spill or light throw and a good hot spot like the halogens.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
 

airon23

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
1,526
Location
Reno NV
 
 
 
I continued cleaning up the motor to get it ready for all new seals.
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I'll take the flywheel to OReilley's tomorrow to get machined.
Today we pulled the transmission out. Now to take it somewhere for rebuild/reseal. Not sure exactly what it needs but I'll let the experts handle it. @Tony_Farson you mentioned George at Valley Hybrids before and you had your stuff done there is that right? I was wondering if I need to make a trip out there, but how long does something like that take? I was going to give him a call on Monday to inquire. Am I much worse off at a transmission shop here locally? Has anyone dealt with one here in town?

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DesertLake

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
994
Location
Washoe Valley NV
 
 
It took way longer than it should have, but I got the winch, dual battery, and headlamp relay upgrade installed today. Now I just need to install the rope, which should shake out the new electrics. Not pictured, I used a Blue Sea ACR for the isolator.
The Slee Short Bus bumper glided onto the frame, all holes lined up perfect, it was the easiest part of the process.

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