not sure why, but I just pictured inmates being hosed down with a fire hose when I read that. I need sleep
What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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not sure why, but I just pictured inmates being hosed down with a fire hose when I read that. I need sleep
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Picked up a hitchhiker-skier, took him to the top of the pass, went home, changed the oil and filter on the FJ60.
Removed the dash cluster from my FJ40, reset the odometer to zero and applied white face decal to the speedo gauge.
Removed the dash cluster from my FJ40, reset the odometer to zero and applied white face decal to the speedo gauge.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
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- Redding, California
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not sure why, but I just pictured inmates being hosed down with a fire hose when I read that. I need sleep
That's BAD MIKE!J
Micruz60, thanks for picking up the pass skier, I can't tell you how many times I've ridden the pass trail down to Forest Rd from the top parking lot and hitched back up, those were the days before working at the mtn. (never had enough $$$ to buy a season pass).
Well I got my snorkel hooked up, it doesn't look eloquent but its functional, I didn't want to tackle the process of cutting the air box and locating the inlet to the passengers side. I had to flatten the tubing to allow the hood to close in it's current location, but it's tight and no rattling.
I also finished my tailgate storage modification, 100% copied from Wagon Gear, however, I made my panels out of 11 gauge. sheet so the strength is back in my tailgate. I also started on my rear panel storage compartments, also made out of 11 gauge.
I have a question concerning the snorkel build, I have one thing left to seal up on my air box; it's where the hot air tube comes out of the air box snot and ran down to the smog stuff, my truck is desmogged, so what's the best way to close off the hole on the bottom side of the snot?
Well I got my snorkel hooked up, it doesn't look eloquent but its functional, I didn't want to tackle the process of cutting the air box and locating the inlet to the passengers side. I had to flatten the tubing to allow the hood to close in it's current location, but it's tight and no rattling.
I also finished my tailgate storage modification, 100% copied from Wagon Gear, however, I made my panels out of 11 gauge. sheet so the strength is back in my tailgate. I also started on my rear panel storage compartments, also made out of 11 gauge.
I have a question concerning the snorkel build, I have one thing left to seal up on my air box; it's where the hot air tube comes out of the air box snot and ran down to the smog stuff, my truck is desmogged, so what's the best way to close off the hole on the bottom side of the snot?
Wow that Hot Air Tube is still in-tact? You should be able to remove it from the air box and there is a small collar left over. Trim the collar down and then just use some thin metal to cover the hole. Just speaking hypothetically here. No experience doing that mod.
Some people may want that tube. So don't destroy it
who wants the hot air tube, first come first serve, lol. If your local come and get it, if your not local, I suppose I can foot the bill for postage.
Also I have a clicking noise coming from my compressor, the one under the power steering. If I hold my hand over the larger port it goes away, so I used a piece of hose to connect both ports and poured a cap full of oil into the compressor. the noise is gone, but it's just a temp fix. Do I even need the compressor, I mean other than the pulley? Is there a way to take the internals out and just use the pulley and tensioner?
Also I have a clicking noise coming from my compressor, the one under the power steering. If I hold my hand over the larger port it goes away, so I used a piece of hose to connect both ports and poured a cap full of oil into the compressor. the noise is gone, but it's just a temp fix. Do I even need the compressor, I mean other than the pulley? Is there a way to take the internals out and just use the pulley and tensioner?
Yep. It's referred to as "de-vane the smog pump" pull it out. Pull it apart. Take off the pieces that actually push/ pull air, and re-assemble.
Again. Just speaking from what I've read. I know it's possible though
I've got a Jim C idler pulley on my 2F.
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
Put my sticker on 
Just cut the second 60's tailgate to add the tailgate storage, I'm modifying my design to allow the carpet panel to be velcro-ed on top of the hatch to seem as there is no hatch, kind of an out of sight out of mind storage area
I also pulled my fuel tank off the first 60 to install weld nuts between the body and tank to allow my 3rd row seating to be taken in and out without leaving carriage bots sticking up in my cargo area.
I also pulled my fuel tank off the first 60 to install weld nuts between the body and tank to allow my 3rd row seating to be taken in and out without leaving carriage bots sticking up in my cargo area.
I know it's not the weekend but it might as well be with 65 degree days like we had in Seattle today. I was finally able to install my $60 Ebay find SOR tailgate carpet. It's not as cool as your tailgate storage spots but I think it's cool in a OEM kind of way! 
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
Wired up my projecta 200amp dual battery isolator and fitted the new battery and all works perfectly
Went to open my 4+ bumper swing-outs and they took all I had to get 'em open. Got a block and the floor jack and jacked 'em off the truck. Not exactly corroded but gunky--think it's due to the mag-chlor sprayed on the roads 'round here.
I always thought there should be zerk fittings on these as there's a inch or so wide recess between the bronze looking bearings about a quarter inch deep. So I drilled a hole in each, threaded it and mounted zerks. Filled 'em with Lucas tacky red #2. Super easy operation now.
I always thought there should be zerk fittings on these as there's a inch or so wide recess between the bronze looking bearings about a quarter inch deep. So I drilled a hole in each, threaded it and mounted zerks. Filled 'em with Lucas tacky red #2. Super easy operation now.
Sweet! Would love to see pics of where you put them exactly. I'm ordering the rear to match the front soon!
sheepdawg
Champagne appetite. Beer income.
Mechanical oil pressure gauge
Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 60. Was able to retain the stock electrical oil pressure gauge as well. Came out clean and flawless. I was surprised that the electrical gauge was pretty consistent with the new mechanical gauge, just not as responsive.
Hope to put a thread together with part # and photos on the install soon.
Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 60. Was able to retain the stock electrical oil pressure gauge as well. Came out clean and flawless. I was surprised that the electrical gauge was pretty consistent with the new mechanical gauge, just not as responsive.
Hope to put a thread together with part # and photos on the install soon.
Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 60. Was able to retain the stock electrical oil pressure gauge as well. Came out clean and flawless. I was surprised that the electrical gauge was pretty consistent with the new mechanical gauge, just not as responsive.
Hope to put a thread together with part # and photos on the install soon.
Very interested in part numbers and layout of this install. I have not been a fan of the methods in the past threads on how to retain the stock gauge and install an aftermarket mechanical gauge.
Thanks
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
^^^ Same here... very interested.
Not really worth a pic--I just eyeballed where the recess was then shot some holes in and threaded 'em. I put 'em on the ends--facing out when the swingouts are closed--so you don't have to open 'em to lube 'em.
'
Sorry, I don't own the bumper. That's why I can't picture it
Oh, sorry.
Here's a pic of the bumper, but not the zerks. Just picture a wee small bump a little below center on the outside of each swingout pivot.
