What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (23 Viewers)

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You're gonna beat me to 300k lol.
We will see. All of my driving is elective. I don’t have to commute, so I barely drive.

The 62 is destined to get a few trips with me to be proofed out for the wife.
 
Made some cargo and tailgate cards. Put the carpet on tailgate card but not sure what I'm going to do with the cargo cards.



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I’m glad you’re okay and nobody was hurt. Bummer about the trucks. While I agree that the factory brakes on these trucks is lackluster compared to modern vehicles, I cannot understand why people want their brakes to lock up. That is incredibly dangerous. It throws the weight distribution of the vehicle off and makes you lose control. You want the brakes to slow you at a steady rate. When they lock up they are no longer slowing you down and you’re relying on downward force on the tires against the pavement to stop you.
 
Picked up a valve stem leak on my Wrangler Trailrunners and decided to spring for the BFG KO2s, I really like the white lettering and more aggressive tread pattern. I think these should have a fair amount more grip off-pavement than the middle-tier Trailrunners did. They also feel almost an inch higher too, but maybe that's just placebo. They're the same size at 31x10.5xR15.

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Been knocking out some smaller projects all summer. Did an overhaul on the wheels. Swapped out the locking hubs with new ones from cruiser outfitters. Was due for a tire rotation so I gave some new life to the chrome wheels and swapped in new center hubs on all four.

Almost looks out of place with the patina at this point. Hoping to tackle some bigger projects soon, including a refresh on repaint.

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After:
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I’m glad you’re okay and nobody was hurt. Bummer about the trucks. While I agree that the factory brakes on these trucks is lackluster compared to modern vehicles, I cannot understand why people want their brakes to lock up. That is incredibly dangerous. It throws the weight distribution of the vehicle off and makes you lose control. You want the brakes to slow you at a steady rate. When they lock up they are no longer slowing you down and you’re relying on downward force on the tires against the pavement to stop you.
Brakes should have enough force to lock up. The best coefficient of friction occurs just before lock up. That’s why modern anti skid systems modulate between lockup and wheel spin. In the old days we were taught how to manually modulate the brakes. If the tire starts to skid let off the brake slightly and reapply. Of course computers are better and modern brakes do it 15 times per second.
If your vintage brakes cannot lock your tires something is wrong with the system.
60 brakes are fine. The only reason to modify them is if your driving conditions overheats then. i.e. lots of mountain passes etc.
 
A few weekends back…two night camping trip to French Meadows Reservoir (NorCal). the trip back to Serene Lakes (just off the 80) was all dirt roads…beautiful back there.
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Brakes should have enough force to lock up. The best coefficient of friction occurs just before lock up. That’s why modern anti skid systems modulate between lockup and wheel spin. In the old days we were taught how to manually modulate the brakes. If the tire starts to skid let off the brake slightly and reapply. Of course computers are better and modern brakes do it 15 times per second.
If your vintage brakes cannot lock your tires something is wrong with the system.
60 brakes are fine. The only reason to modify them is if your driving conditions overheats then. i.e. lots of mountain passes etc.
I've got a thread going as we speak trying to figure out the brake issue. Signs are currently pointing to low vacuum pressure possibly not allowing the booster to fully operate. Could be something else of course. I agree, the best braking is right before lock up, you should be able to lock and then ease off just to that threshold. We all know about pumping brakes on ice!
 
I've got a thread going as we speak trying to figure out the brake issue. Signs are currently pointing to low vacuum pressure possibly not allowing the booster to fully operate. Could be something else of course. I agree, the best braking is right before lock up, you should be able to lock and then ease off just to that threshold. We all know about pumping brakes on ice!
I’ll preface this with ā€œI could be wrongā€¦ā€, but you should be able to get the same braking force even without your booster working, it will just take more leg effort on your part. So sub par brakes are not necessarily a bad booster. If you use all the leg force you have, do you get good braking?

Secondary questions: has anything in the brake system been changed recently? (When the poor brakes started) Especially thinking new booster and/or master and the pushrod wasn’t properly adjusted.
 
I’ll preface this with ā€œI could be wrongā€¦ā€, but you should be able to get the same braking force even without your booster working, it will just take more leg effort on your part. So sub par brakes are not necessarily a bad booster. If you use all the leg force you have, do you get good braking?

Secondary questions: has anything in the brake system been changed recently? (When the poor brakes started) Especially thinking new booster and/or master and the pushrod wasn’t properly adjusted.
To not muddle here I've got my thread going in the 60 section, just don't wanna clog this thread. But I do agree. My father has a 36 ford with no booster and it stops better than my 62. I'm going to get into it again tomorrow, new master picked up today. I'll bench bleed, vacuum power bleed the corners and lspv, adjust pushrod, adjust drums...see what happens. No changes recently but honestly been driving it with weak brakes for years. Sigh....I guess it's better than working on the daily!
 
How dare you bring that lovely 60 so close to salt water! :mad: :mad: :mad: I will now confiscate your cruiser as you are obviously not a fit caretaker.
 

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