What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (7 Viewers)

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Thanks a lot!
Lift is probably 2.5” via Dobinsons medium springs and their yellow shocks. I don’t recommend Dobinsons.

Tires are BFG KO2 33x10.5 on 15” emkai wheels that are probably 10” wide. A narrower wheel would skinny up the tire but I was trying an experiment and liked the look of the wheels. The tires are perfect for a 3FE/H55 combo.
I love the classic, period correct wheels!
 
I love the classic, period correct wheels!
Thanks, I like them too. They came with/off my 40. They look killer on that truck too:

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Dump run.
Actually the first time to hook up a trailer to Paul. Has a 7-pin connector and surprisingly, the lights work. A brake controller would be the bees knees…

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I Installed a new receiver on the ‘89 today.
I stole the old U-Haul unit for the ‘87 this winter. Decided the nicer rig should get the new receiver - boy did I underestimate how hard it would be to get one to AK!

I eventually got one with free shipping courtesy of Bezos. It’s for an ‘04 Tahoe, but it sure fits good! (Reese Towpower 44668)

The two pictured bumper bolts and two more holes in the frame lined up well. I drilled two more 1/2 holes in the frame, for a total of six out of eight bolts, which should be sufficient given the original unit only had four. The middle mounting holes landed right on some frame rivets, and I had no interest in drilling through them.

I grossly underestimated how hard it would be to drill the two holes in the frame. I used an almost new $20 cobalt bit, lots of cutting oil, predrilled my holes, and still burned through three 20V crapsmen batteries and an entire afternoon. (I hear a mag drill would’ve made this very easy)

I’m pretty happy with the results though! That’s a second gen tundra plug, connected to a homemade set of relays to adapt the 5 wire taillights to the American 4 wire system. (I’d be happy to make a post about it if there’s interest)

If anyone is following my footsteps, here’s the mounting hardware I needed.
2x M12 x 50 1.25 pitch bolts
4x M12 x 45 1.75 bolts (should’ve been a size shorter)
4x M12 flat washers, nuts and lock washers (should’ve used nylock nuts)
I also used the six large washer that came with the hitch for spacing the receiver below the frame rivets.

2nd Gen Tundra plug mounting
2x M7 x 30 1.00 bolts and lock washers
10x 1/4 washers for spacing the mounting bracket off the round bar.

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Swapped out my leaking CSF radiator for an aluminum Mishimoto unit. Sad part is they just in the last couple months stopped producing them. Hopefully they start up again because the market is only going to get bigger as other options are either disappearing or skyrocketing in price.

I made sure to add a bonding wire between the radiator (ring terminal flat against the radiator bracket mount, underneath the bracket) and a body ground close to the battery to prevent any electrolytic corrosion. I also use AMSOIL coolant (holy moly the stuff works good) which has long term corrosion inhibitors as well. New upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps as well.

Thermostat (which I found out after the fact was failing in that it would open but wasn't closing completely, leading to longer warm up times for the truck) got changed out too, using upgraded thermostat housing hardware from @ToyotaMatt

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Swapped out my leaking CSF radiator for an aluminum Mishimoto unit. Sad part is they just in the last couple months stopped producing them. Hopefully they start up again because the market is only going to get bigger as other options are either disappearing or skyrocketing in price.

I made sure to add a bonding wire between the radiator (ring terminal flat against the radiator bracket mount, underneath the bracket) and a body ground close to the battery to prevent any electrolytic corrosion. I also use AMSOIL coolant (holy moly the stuff works good) which has long term corrosion inhibitors as well. New upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps as well.

Thermostat (which I found out after the fact was failing in that it would open but wasn't closing completely, leading to longer warm up times for the truck) got changed out too, using upgraded thermostat housing hardware from @ToyotaMatt

View attachment 3894382
Wanting to clarify - CSF or Mishi discontinued their radiator ? Was that CSF a relatively recent replacement that began to leak ? Thanks
 
Wanting to clarify - CSF or Mishi discontinued their radiator ? Was that CSF a relatively recent replacement that began to leak ? Thanks
Mishimoto has (for now) discontinued their radiator. My hope is that with enough demand they'll ultimately start up again.

My CSF was maybe 6 or 7 years old, though I can't remember exactly. I know their quality has dropped considerably I think about that long ago since they've started using much thinner materials to make them.
 
Swapped out my leaking CSF radiator for an aluminum Mishimoto unit. Sad part is they just in the last couple months stopped producing them. Hopefully they start up again because the market is only going to get bigger as other options are either disappearing or skyrocketing in price.

I made sure to add a bonding wire between the radiator (ring terminal flat against the radiator bracket mount, underneath the bracket) and a body ground close to the battery to prevent any electrolytic corrosion. I also use AMSOIL coolant (holy moly the stuff works good) which has long term corrosion inhibitors as well. New upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps as well.

Thermostat (which I found out after the fact was failing in that it would open but wasn't closing completely, leading to longer warm up times for the truck) got changed out too, using upgraded thermostat housing hardware from @ToyotaMatt

View attachment 3894382
Which Amsoil Coolant did you use , the regular car and truck or heavy duty? I just replaced a three year old Mishimoto rad in my 83 FJ 60. ( they covered under warranty) because it started leaking. I now have two ground straps attached to radiator. Double checked all my other grounds, they are all new and I even added another battery to frame ground and body ground. When rig is running a get a .31 volts reading from my coolant. Been running regular green coolant but if Amsoil has corrosion inhibitors, going to switch over. Trying to cover all possible helpful options for a long radiator life.
 
Which Amsoil Coolant did you use , the regular car and truck or heavy duty? I just replaced a three year old Mishimoto rad in my 83 FJ 60. ( they covered under warranty) because it started leaking. I now have two ground straps attached to radiator. Double checked all my other grounds, they are all new and I even added another battery to frame ground and body ground. When rig is running a get a .31 volts reading from my coolant. Been running regular green coolant but if Amsoil has corrosion inhibitors, going to switch over. Trying to cover all possible helpful options for a long radiator life.
I use the Heavy Duty (ethylene glycol) coolant. https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-heavy-duty-antifreeze-coolant-anthd/

This weekend I'll check the engine running voltage on the radiator and if necessary add a second bonding wire. I don't anticipate needing one, but want to be absolutely sure because swapping the radiator is a hellacious chore (and with Mishimoto discontinuing these radiators I doubt they're keeping any on hand for warranty servicing). I plan to make a bonding wire for the rear axle as well, but need to figure out exactly where/how I'll secure it.
 
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Which Amsoil Coolant did you use , the regular car and truck or heavy duty? I just replaced a three year old Mishimoto rad in my 83 FJ 60. ( they covered under warranty) because it started leaking. I now have two ground straps attached to radiator. Double checked all my other grounds, they are all new and I even added another battery to frame ground and body ground. When rig is running a get a .31 volts reading from my coolant. Been running regular green coolant but if Amsoil has corrosion inhibitors, going to switch over. Trying to cover all possible helpful options for a long radiator life.
.31 is barely acceptable according to RonDavis, so I would try to improve it. Mine is ~.06V
 
I use the Heavy Duty (ethylene glycol) coolant. https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-heavy-duty-antifreeze-coolant-anthd/

This weekend I'll check the engine running voltage on the radiator and if necessary add a second bonding wire. I don't anticipate needing one, but want to be absolutely sure because swapping the radiator is a hellacious chore. I plan to make a bonding wire for the rear axle as well, but need to figure out exactly where/how I'll secure

.31 is barely acceptable according to RonDavis, so I would try to improve it. Mine is ~.06V
I haven’t checked it since adding and checking ground straps, so hopefully has improved.
 
I use the Heavy Duty (ethylene glycol) coolant. https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-heavy-duty-antifreeze-coolant-anthd/

This weekend I'll check the engine running voltage on the radiator and if necessary add a second bonding wire. I don't anticipate needing one, but want to be absolutely sure because swapping the radiator is a hellacious chore. I plan to make a bonding wire for the rear axle as well, but need to figure out exactly where/how I'll secure it.
I also did find this radiator cap with sacrificial anode that is the right psi and fits mishimoto radiator. So also have added that.
 
I also did find this radiator cap with sacrificial anode that is the right psi and fits mishimoto radiator. So also have added that.
Well that's completely new to me. I wonder how effective they are. Given the pain it is the change a radiator (and the cost and availability of radiators for the 6x platform), if those are effective they might be worth using.

@BurntToast my reading was 0.09VDC with my old (not bonded) CSF radiator, but I forgot to take a reading with the engine running before I started tearing into it this last weekend. I'll be doing the full gamut of voltage tests probably this Saturday morning (cold engine) to see where I stand with the (bonded) Mishimoto.
 
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