What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (22 Viewers)

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I've been thinking about getting new replacement LEDs for the burnt out ones in my switches and realized my old suspension control switch had 3 functioning bulbs that match the brightness of the original bulbs.
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seat heater and DAC switches back to standard lighting:
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At least these can remain OE in appearance. Most of the switches to the left side of the steering wheel are burnt out, so I'll try out the LEDs there first.
 
Quick headlight restore with the Cerakote kit. I’ve never been real good at doing these, but this seemed pretty easy. Was apprehensive about just two sanding grits, but looks good.
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Now you gotta get that 10” slim line sub for under your seat.
link?

I'll keep it in mind if I ever do upgrade. For now I'm happy with how it is without busted speakers!
 
Chasing a stall issue I replaced the throttle body.

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link?

I'll keep it in mind if I ever do upgrade. For now I'm happy with how it is without busted speakers!

One of the easiest things I’ve ever done on this truck. I have one under both seats. Tweeters make all the difference though.
 
It didn't start today, but 2 weeks ago. Started changing valve cover gaskets and broke a bolt. Tried everything and I swear the block would've melted before that bolt let loose. Ended up drilling it out and rethreaded the hole. Somewhere in the middle of the madness, I painted the valve covers with VHT Black Crinkle paint. Turned out nice, but since they're kinda hidden, might not be worth the time and effort to clean, degrease, tape and paint, I just did it as a distraction from the broken bolt.

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Replaced DS front door check. I've had an insanely annoying "clunk" for ~7 years since I bought this my GX- finally got it addressed.

The 4Runner door check DOES work just fine and is at least $100 less than the specific Lexus one.

Can't figure out how to get before/after vids in my Google photos to work here...but the clunk is GONE!
 
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Fluids. Changed all diffs and engine oil. Think it was all original w 123k miles.

very glad the front dif plugs loosened without issue. Only a little extra grunt to get the fill broken loose, otherwise it was smooth.

Think my actuator seal has a slight leak out of the transfer case. Everyone having good results with a simple seal swap?
 
I went out to Ridgecrest to hangout with friends and do a little wrenching on the project BMW. It was a hot one so we only did the rear suspension.

Afterwards, my friend with the 1G Raptor and I went to do a little exploring of the Spangler Hills OHV area to do a little exploring. It was the first time for both of us. Here's a quick little video:


On the way back, I stopped by Jawbone station to check it out. Took a few photos while I was there.
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I need to do this. what did you use? how long did it take?
I used these guys Toyota | Yota Bearings and Hubs | United States - https://www.yotabearingsandhubs.com got the ones with the better bearings. cost like $350 for 2 shipped

I started around 8, probably a little after. got done around 1030. 1st side took longer cuz i had to keep walking back to the shop to get tools i needed. all i took off to do this was the wheels, calipers, rotor, abs sensor (to move the wiring out the way) and then the hubs themselves.
 
I used the Yota Bearings and Hubs last time. They've been totally fine for a couple of years now.

But, when I did the rears earlier this year I used SKF hubs. Much to my surprise, inside the SKF box was a Japanese-made Koyo! For much cheaper than a Koyo in a Koyo box from NAPA or Lexus.

For the front hubs, a pre-assembled SKF is $106 for Rock Auto. If that's another re-boxed Koyo like the rears where, it is a smoking deal. Even if they are a SKF-produced bearing, they are still good-quality (I used SKF rears on our Outback and they were great).

In terms of difficulty in replacement...it's pretty easy. With an electric impact it can be done in 45 minutes per side. I'd also plan on replacing the inner wheel seals on both sides as it's often torn up (National 710573).
 

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