Driver and passenger side have been aftermarket since the lift. Driver side looks brand new. Passenger side gets chewed up in the exact same spot.
Confident in saying it’s not because of aftermarket cv. Barely lifted, only driven on local roads.
What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
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Confident in saying it’s not because of aftermarket cv. Barely lifted, only driven on local roads.
That's actually pretty common, my All-Pro high-angle inner has been cracked like that for at least 2 years now.
A lot of the time it is due to the inner joint being kind of scrunched together on the lifted rig, so it compresses the boot (putting it in tension) and causing it to split.
That can be fixed by removing the inner clamp (on the shaft side, not the joint side), and sliding it an inch or so down the axle (spreading out the boot), and putting another clamp on it (hose clamp is fine). I ended up doing that to mine around a year ago as well, and it's been OK.
A lot of the time it is due to the inner joint being kind of scrunched together on the lifted rig, so it compresses the boot (putting it in tension) and causing it to split.
That can be fixed by removing the inner clamp (on the shaft side, not the joint side), and sliding it an inch or so down the axle (spreading out the boot), and putting another clamp on it (hose clamp is fine). I ended up doing that to mine around a year ago as well, and it's been OK.
Huh, that is pretty interesting to learn. Glad it's an easy enough fix. To confirm, I want to remove the clamp closest to the wheel, and then pull the boot closer to the wheel before re-clamping?
Also, I wonder why my passenger side is prone to this, but not the driver side. Maybe it's the slight KDSS lean to that side?
Duralast CVs are garbage, so are TRQ. I find its best to use high quality oem CVs or even aftermarket "built" ones like from raxles or insaneshafts. Also when you get a new CV its not a bad idea to do some moderate deliberate break-in driving to get the grease warm and spread out in a controlled way.
Today…
A few discoveries on the routine, 5,000 mile oil change:
-the on board computer ends on 12/31/2024! 2025 is not valid to use for maintenance timing (if anyone uses the computer… I do!)
-The lower control arm…bushings (don’t know what those are called) look to be dried out and fkt. Open to suggestions on that (see picture:
-I keep finding teeny leaks in the coolant hoses right at the hose clamps. So tightened a few of those. Explains a persistent and very slow loss in coolant.
Along with oil change, greased up the suspension components to keep the squeaks silent. Every oil change seems to be the interval when the squeaks start their return.
A few discoveries on the routine, 5,000 mile oil change:
-the on board computer ends on 12/31/2024! 2025 is not valid to use for maintenance timing (if anyone uses the computer… I do!)
-The lower control arm…bushings (don’t know what those are called) look to be dried out and fkt. Open to suggestions on that (see picture:
-I keep finding teeny leaks in the coolant hoses right at the hose clamps. So tightened a few of those. Explains a persistent and very slow loss in coolant.
Along with oil change, greased up the suspension components to keep the squeaks silent. Every oil change seems to be the interval when the squeaks start their return.
I have also noticed the calendar for maintenance ended! I used this for oil changes and tire rotations and found it useful. Anyone know of a workaround?
When I changed out my lower control arms I switched from OEM to SuperPro's double offset design. I have a mild lift and 33's and wanted to get back from caster, and liked the idea of getting some from the LCA to push the wheel forward instead of getting all of the caster gain from the UCA and moving the wheel backwards. I have a few thousand miles on the SuperPro LCAs and they have been mostly fine so far, but I didn't get enough grease applied somewhere in the poly bushing stackup and get a slight squeak when it's cold out.
also, small hill climb.
I had a similar calendar notification but eventually got around it, but that was in December. I too use the computer for maint schedule but haven't seen it in 2025, will keep an eye out!
LCA bushings, had similar Rotten rubber so did Lexus LCAs and UCAs, used mylparts.com have used partsouq.com too. I have KDSS so no aftermarket LCAs available.
Same here. Very lame they hard coded an expiration date. There is a workaround, but its also kinda lame. you have to erase the date then you can set a mileage. I would definitely prefer a calendar setting as my annual mileage is low.
Stretched the CV boot to avoid rubbing. Metal zip tie tensioner tool made this a lot easier. Yellow electrical tape to let me know if the boot slips at all.
Also, new steering rack is here! $650 from Olathe Toyota. Will be knocking this out next weekend since we’re out of town this weekend.
Also, new steering rack is here! $650 from Olathe Toyota. Will be knocking this out next weekend since we’re out of town this weekend.
Are you also going to clean your throttle body? So easy with it all apart
Hit 150k miles today. Do we have a 120 thread to show off those high mileage odometers? I know mine are rookie numbers but I want to see what others have achieved.
I didn’t plan on it. I will look up a how to.
I've highlighted the oily goo in red. Clean this with Throttle body cleaner and an old tooth brush. Same time you can also clean the MAF. Be certain to only use MAF cleaner on the MAF because it is extremely delicate. CRC makes a little kit that you can get at Walmart or Amazon. Very easy, especially since you have all this apart.
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