What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (25 Viewers)

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  • Replaced the rear hatch interior handle with Bartact paracord handles. The black and gray match the interior surprisingly well. Snagged 2 beefy metric bolts, 2 nuts, 2 cap nuts, and 4 washers at ace. Washers + nuts keep the bolts locked in place on the door frame. Cap nuts just secure the handle. I want to paint the cap nuts black and cut a piece of black rubber to fill in the gap in plastic trim.


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\I used, and I love it. Feels like the life size tonka toy I wanted as a kid. I never ever want to vinyl wrap again. My finger tips are sore as hell.

That grab handle looks great, mine broke and I need to replace. How did you secure the handle to the inside of the door panel?
 
That grab handle looks great, mine broke and I need to replace. How did you secure the handle to the inside of the door panel?

hardware:
  • 2 x large metric bolts (not sure of the size, eyeballed it at Ace)
  • 4 x large washers (real wide)
  • 2 x nuts
  • 2 x cap nuts
You need to remove the plastic trim to see it, but on the actual door there’s 2 metal mounting points where the OEM handle clips in place. My installation process was as follows:
  1. install 1 washer on each bolt
  2. Slide bolts through the holes in the metal mount point with the bolt head facing the hatch door and the threaded part facing into the truck.
  3. Install other washer on each bolt
  4. Secure nut to each bolt. The rest of the thread is the mount point for the grab handle and cap nut.
  5. Install the hatch door trim panel
  6. Place grab handle on to both bolts
  7. Secure grab handle in place with cap nuts

This will let you remove the grab handle without having to remove the trim panel. Depending on the length of the bolts you get, you may want to shorten them with a cut wheel so that you don’t have any play in the grab handle after using the cap nuts. I got lucky and had just enough thread left that tightening the cap nuts keeps the handle tight.
 
Well I have done a few minor things more for comfort and all not really for performance....

Installed the Grom vline2 ... so far after only a couple of days I am liking it very much! All the extras of modern tech but the stock CD/DVD changer still works as well as the AUX plug!!

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I removed the power socket and ran the USB from the Grom down there to be able to stick a USB drive loaded with music and videos to play or hook the phone up for both charging and for use of Android Auto ....
Since the radio and everything was out already and things were getting changed about ... out with the cigarette lighter and in with a dual USB socket with a volt meter as well. It does sit a bit far back to be able to read the meter while driving but when parked you can look down easily enough to check.

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Again... while everything was out the Midlands MTX 115 GMRS radio fit perfectly into the ashtray slot.... like dead on perfectly!! Used the ashtray cover to fashion a cover plate for the bottom to cover the gap there and make it as "stock" as possible.

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then ran the antenna through the firewall and mounted it with a Midlands MXTA27 Lip mount and put a Midlands MXTA25 3db gain "Ghost Antenna" to help increase the range and usefulness. Also it can be swapped for something bigger if needed or just removed to keep it safe.

If you haven't looked into these GMRS units you really should. As of 2020 and 2021 Jeep Jamboree is now using them as their OFFICIAL trail comms. So if it is getting a push like that it will, most likely, be the most common type on the trail. Especially since it can talk to all the cheap FRS hand held radios plus they have come out with new 5 watt hand held radios as well, but also able to use the higher power stations as well for greater distance as well.

midlandusa.com

MicroMobile®: The New Standard in Off-Road Communication | Midland Radio

Out with the Old. In with the New. Midland Radio Corporation is the official 2020 communications sponsor of Jeep® Jamboree USA. With the sponsorship comes a transition with CB being replaced by FRS/GMRS two-way radios. This year Jeep® Jamboree participants are still welcome to use their CB...
midlandusa.com
midlandusa.com

It will not be better then a HAM radio as far as power and flexibility but it is a lot less daunting to use. There is still a fee you have to pay to the FCC for the higher power portion but the lower ones you can use free for the FRS and the FCC is supposed to be dropping the price for the GMRS from like 70$ down to 30 something for 10 years and covers the "family"

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I also unplugged the rain sensor for the wipers... now I am able to set it to how fast or slow I want it to work the wipers ...
Where you able to keep factory back up camera?
 
Where you able to keep factory back up camera?
Yeppers... everything that was there from the factory works the same. Backup camera, CD changer, AUX input, factory bluetooth works as well. Now I just have the added options of running apps through the Grom unit. I can load stuff onto a memory stick and plug it in... like MP3 audio (music and books) I can also load and watch video files ( i swear I only watch when parked officer!) all of this is done offline.

I can hotspot my phone and use google maps or maprika for offroading. Surf the net and use youtube. Also though i only tried once... I can just use Android Carplay thingie lol

One of the programs besides listening to MP3s that i use EVERY TIME i drive... an app called Torque because it uses GPS to calcutale my speed and can display a speedo on my screen so since I have upgraded to 33's I dont have to guess at the real speed!!
 
I bought them via 1010keys on EBay.
I think that the cost was about $30 for two keys. I chose the ones without any buttons - just the transponder chip - because I plan to keep one on a lanyard under my wetsuit during watersports and/or may put one somewhere as a hide-a-key, haven't decided where yet. If anyone wants to PM a great location, I'm open to suggestions. Regardless: as a spare key, the non-fob version works perfectly well and takes up less space.

*Notable: It took 1010keys about 2 months to send my keys to me. They say that it's due problems with getting the blanks from China. That seems plausible to me, so I'm not going to besmirch their good name - many Mudders have had a better experience. Mine was a good experience in that the keys are exactly what I wanted, but it took a long time and their communication was on the quiet side of mediocre.

As for programming: it's really easy.
The one caveat is that I'm told that there is a limit to how many keys the car can recognize. I think it is six. If you already have 6 recognized, you can't add more unless you use TechStream or the dealer. (I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken).
Do you have a listing number for which key you bought or do you just follow their application guide? I emailed and asked which ones were for my GX but no response.
 
Yeppers... everything that was there from the factory works the same. Backup camera, CD changer, AUX input, factory bluetooth works as well. Now I just have the added options of running apps through the Grom unit. I can load stuff onto a memory stick and plug it in... like MP3 audio (music and books) I can also load and watch video files ( i swear I only watch when parked officer!) all of this is done offline.

I can hotspot my phone and use google maps or maprika for offroading. Surf the net and use youtube. Also though i only tried once... I can just use Android Carplay thingie lol

One of the programs besides listening to MP3s that i use EVERY TIME i drive... an app called Torque because it uses GPS to calcutale my speed and can display a speedo on my screen so since I have upgraded to 33's I dont have to guess at the real speed!!

I use this, it’s a great app.
 
Greased my UCAs today. Long story short, never knew they needed to be greased. This is the first car I’ve ever done suspension work on. Fortunately it’s only been about 6k miles on the UCAs. Hoping the ball joints on these SPC aren’t shot.

Edit:
Spoke too soon. A trip through the grocery store parking lot and over some speed bumps and the squeak is as loud as it was before greasing the UCAs.

Any thoughts? I figure if the ball joints were bad the fresh grease would help for more than a 5 minute trip. The suspension sounds like it did on my dad’s blazer at 200K miles but only has ~6K.
 
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Do you have a listing number for which key you bought or do you just follow their application guide? I emailed and asked which ones were for my GX but no response.
I don't have that info handy - it doesn't show up in my ebay history.
 
Installed White Knuckle rock sliders with the optional top plate. Added some underbody rock lights wired to the original connecter for the OEM side step lights.

Added LRD emblems to the D pillar, but not sold on keeping them quite yet...

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Ill be getting the same sliders.... what lights did you use and did you splice into the factory lines or did you use a compatible plug?
 
Installed White Knuckle rock sliders with the optional top plate. Added some underbody rock lights wired to the original connecter for the OEM side step lights.

Added LRD emblems to the D pillar, but not sold on keeping them quite yet...

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So do these sliders not actually bolt to the frame? Just around it? Is that how all bolt on options are?
 
So do these sliders not actually bolt to the frame? Just around it? Is that how all bolt on options are?
Correct. Most "bolt-on" sliders (that I've seen) use u-bolts that wrap around the frame.

Edit: Per replies from other members, I was incorrect on the above and crossed it out.
 
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So do these sliders not actually bolt to the frame? Just around it? Is that how all bolt on options are?
5th gen 4Runner bolt-on sliders can be installed on a GX470. The 120 and 150 frames are very similar and share lots of holes, the 120 is just missing a few holes relative to the 150. So you need to drill 6-7 new holes on each side and install rivnuts for anchors, which is straightforward with a $25 step bit, and the total pullout resistance for the slider will be something like 20,000 lbs per side (with 12-14 bolts per side), as rivnuts are very strong.

The 5th gen T4R sliders I bought (Apex Overland) have larger mounting plates, a DOM outer tube, a top plate suitable for kids climbing in and out, a sizeable kickout, and were cheaper than GX-specific sliders. See my in-progress pictures below, just waiting for the right-sized rivnuts to come in and I'll mount them this weekend.
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5th gen 4Runner bolt-on sliders can be installed on a GX470. The 120 and 150 frames are very similar and share lots of holes, the 120 is just missing a few holes relative to the 150. So you need to drill 6-7 new holes on each side and install rivnuts for anchors, which is straightforward with a $25 step bit, and the total pullout resistance for the slider will be something like 20,000 lbs per side (with 12-14 bolts per side), as rivnuts are very strong.

The 5th gen T4R sliders I bought (Apex Overland) have larger mounting plates, a DOM outer tube, a top plate suitable for kids climbing in and out, a sizeable kickout, and were cheaper than GX-specific sliders. See my in-progress pictures below, just waiting for the right-sized rivnuts to come in and I'll mount them this weekend.
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Budbuilt sliders actually just bolt on with no drilling and have a plate the full length against the frame. They're VERY beefy
 
Budbuilt sliders actually just bolt on with no drilling and have a plate the full length against the frame. They're VERY beefy
They do, but with the same options as the Apex sliders (a kicker, top plate, and dimples down) they are $1,300 shipped in bare metal. The Apex sliders were $717 shipped from Summit Racing, plus $25 for rivnuts. I don't doubt the Budbuilts are better than the Apex sliders, but the Apex sliders will be plenty strong for my purposes (they weigh around 50# per side and are pretty darn beefy from my handling/painting of them - plus they are Made in USA like the Budbuilts).
 

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