Probably Lamin-X; seems to be a popular mod for the GX. Lamin-x Protective Films : Headlight, Tail Light and Fog Light Protection
What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (2 Viewers)
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Probably Lamin-X; seems to be a popular mod for the GX. Lamin-x Protective Films : Headlight, Tail Light and Fog Light Protection
stinkyfj60
SILVER Star
Mounted LT265/70R17 General Grabber AT3 tyres (not tires in South Africa). I'll post pics as soon as we do the Dobinson lift in the next couple of weeks...
Badged.
Whatever forum we are in now.
Whatever forum we are in now.
I was on the fence about that badge, but that looks great.
I took it up to Anniston last weekend for the Alabama State USPSA match...
...And spent the morning playing around in the Taladega National Forest on forest road 600/Skyline Drive. It's about 14 miles long, and not very difficult--but fun for a Floridian who doesn't have a rock to drive over if he wanted one. Lots of deep washes, and loose rock. A few of the side trails I found were pretty legit, but I suspect you could do the main trail in any 4WD with decent tires.
The pictures never do it justice, but it is steep as hell in the pic.
Little bit of a view through the trees.
The area had these neat lichen-covered boulders that looked like part of a flow or slide of some sort.
...And spent the morning playing around in the Taladega National Forest on forest road 600/Skyline Drive. It's about 14 miles long, and not very difficult--but fun for a Floridian who doesn't have a rock to drive over if he wanted one. Lots of deep washes, and loose rock. A few of the side trails I found were pretty legit, but I suspect you could do the main trail in any 4WD with decent tires.
The pictures never do it justice, but it is steep as hell in the pic.
Little bit of a view through the trees.
The area had these neat lichen-covered boulders that looked like part of a flow or slide of some sort.
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Nice! Where did you get it? TacoVinyl asking $40, ebay $20 and Aliexpress $10. Look the same from pictures.
Same. I got the Ebay version. Faster shipping
Taco Vinyl was out of stock
Ugh, im dreading this. Mine is quiet as a church mouse as long as its not on "cool"
And what is this?
if you can snag one of those flexible hose extensions for a drill (not sure what they’re called), it will make removing the 2 servo motors on the passenger side of the center console a breeze. driver side is only a 10 minute job.
if you need the passenger side one to the right of the blower motor, then I believe you have to go through the trouble of dropping the blower motor.
I attempted to tackle my first “real” repair today: front lower control arms. Watched a bunch of videos, read the fsm. Seemed easy enough. Was I ever wrong...
nothing went easy. even jacking the truck to get the tires off was a pain. felt like I had to jack it ridiculously high to pull them. not sure if this is due to having the icon stage 2 kit installed or what.
getting everything off wasn’t too bad, except for separating the steering knuckle from the ball joint. couldn’t get it with the split tongue and a hammer, had to make a trip to autozone for a ball joint removal tool.
everything bolted back on pretty easily, but torquing the cam bolts and steering knuckle bolts to spec kicked my ass. just not a lot of room under the truck to get the cam bolts to 100 ft lbs. will have to ask the alignment shop to double check them.
all in all, after 4 hours, I only had the drivers side done.
will tackle the passenger side tomorrow.
feeling pretty deflated because of how much I struggled with this, especially with YouTube videos of folks knocking this out in 30 minutes a side in their drive way.
ive got all the parts for the 460 brake swap, but I’m wondering if I should just leave that to the professionals.
nothing went easy. even jacking the truck to get the tires off was a pain. felt like I had to jack it ridiculously high to pull them. not sure if this is due to having the icon stage 2 kit installed or what.
getting everything off wasn’t too bad, except for separating the steering knuckle from the ball joint. couldn’t get it with the split tongue and a hammer, had to make a trip to autozone for a ball joint removal tool.
everything bolted back on pretty easily, but torquing the cam bolts and steering knuckle bolts to spec kicked my ass. just not a lot of room under the truck to get the cam bolts to 100 ft lbs. will have to ask the alignment shop to double check them.
all in all, after 4 hours, I only had the drivers side done.
will tackle the passenger side tomorrow.
feeling pretty deflated because of how much I struggled with this, especially with YouTube videos of folks knocking this out in 30 minutes a side in their drive way.
ive got all the parts for the 460 brake swap, but I’m wondering if I should just leave that to the professionals.
Did the passenger side front lower control arm. Way faster than yesterday after learning from some mistakes.
the biggest pain in the ass was getting the kdss sway bar back on. Hopefully I never have to mess with that thing again.
the biggest pain in the ass was getting the kdss sway bar back on. Hopefully I never have to mess with that thing again.
Suspension goodies today! Freedom upper control arms, rebuilt lowers with whiteline poly bushings, taco tabs alignment and OME 886 coils for the weight of the bumper and winch.
Hi sorry for the late reply ! But yes I used the lamin X pre cut
Not exactly today, but I put in group 31 battery a while back. Cheers!
How close is the battery to the upper coolant hose? I wanted to put a 31 there, but was afraid it would rub. I ended up with an X2Power 27F AGM and it's pretty close.
~1/4 inch. I kept checking for heat problems but none.
Headlight bake and paint
It's lengthy, but easy actually. Here are the steps;
1. Remove front bumper to access headlights,.
2. Remove the metal frames from the front of headlights.
3. Remove the 3 fasteners holding the headlight assembly in, unplug bulbs from rear and pull entire assembly out.
4. Prepare headlight for baking, remove the two foam pads from the rear, remove the lower wire harness, the rest of the bulbs, and the 4 Phillips screws holding the lens.
5. Preheat oven to 250 degrees.
6. Place assembly on cookie sheet in oven for ten minutes to soften the butyl holding the lens.
7. Remove from oven using gloves, and starting in a corner peel the lens away from the base. I used a flathead driver and a plastic pry. Take care when pulling apart that you do not get butyl on the projectors, pull each half straight away from each other until the butyl releases.
8. Remove reflector bowl from lens by removing the two Phillips screws holding it, then pop out the orange side reflector from the keeper tabs. There is a small circular cut out behind the orange diffuser you can stick your finger into and flex a little to release it.
9. Paint the reflector bowl. I used flat black paint/primer suitable for plastic.
10. Remove old butyl from assembly. Put the rear assembly back into the 250 degree oven for 7 or 8 minutes to soften the old butyl again, then quickly dig it out with a flathead driver. I used a heat gun as well for the last little bit that cooled before I could get to it so I didn't have to bake it again.
11. Install new butyl rope into channel on headlight assembly.
12. After paint has dried, reinstall reflector bowl into front lens, taking care to not scratch the paint.
13. Bake rear assembly for 7-8 minutes to soften new butyl rope.
14. Remove with gloves, and place lens back on rear assembly, starting with a corner, press hard, and get all the clips to seat.
15. Reinstall the 4 screws previously removed that lock lens to assembly.
16. Some people do another bake after this step, but I did not.
17. Reinstall foam pieces, harness and bulbs.
18. Reinstall Headlights, brackets, bumper and plastic trim pieces.
19. Enjoy!
It's lengthy, but easy actually. Here are the steps;
1. Remove front bumper to access headlights,.
2. Remove the metal frames from the front of headlights.
3. Remove the 3 fasteners holding the headlight assembly in, unplug bulbs from rear and pull entire assembly out.
4. Prepare headlight for baking, remove the two foam pads from the rear, remove the lower wire harness, the rest of the bulbs, and the 4 Phillips screws holding the lens.
5. Preheat oven to 250 degrees.
6. Place assembly on cookie sheet in oven for ten minutes to soften the butyl holding the lens.
7. Remove from oven using gloves, and starting in a corner peel the lens away from the base. I used a flathead driver and a plastic pry. Take care when pulling apart that you do not get butyl on the projectors, pull each half straight away from each other until the butyl releases.
8. Remove reflector bowl from lens by removing the two Phillips screws holding it, then pop out the orange side reflector from the keeper tabs. There is a small circular cut out behind the orange diffuser you can stick your finger into and flex a little to release it.
9. Paint the reflector bowl. I used flat black paint/primer suitable for plastic.
10. Remove old butyl from assembly. Put the rear assembly back into the 250 degree oven for 7 or 8 minutes to soften the old butyl again, then quickly dig it out with a flathead driver. I used a heat gun as well for the last little bit that cooled before I could get to it so I didn't have to bake it again.
11. Install new butyl rope into channel on headlight assembly.
12. After paint has dried, reinstall reflector bowl into front lens, taking care to not scratch the paint.
13. Bake rear assembly for 7-8 minutes to soften new butyl rope.
14. Remove with gloves, and place lens back on rear assembly, starting with a corner, press hard, and get all the clips to seat.
15. Reinstall the 4 screws previously removed that lock lens to assembly.
16. Some people do another bake after this step, but I did not.
17. Reinstall foam pieces, harness and bulbs.
18. Reinstall Headlights, brackets, bumper and plastic trim pieces.
19. Enjoy!
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Can you give some more details on your headlight work?
